Removing a 3rd Member

[tactransman]

Robert,when you are    ALWAYS use manual low and manual shift it up to 2nd. It helps protect your rear sprag.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Robert,when you are   ALWAYS use manual low and manual shift it up to 2nd. It helps protect your rear sprag.

A-hem! 

[RDF]

Robert,when you are    ALWAYS use manual low and manual shift it up to 2nd. It helps protect your rear sprag.

Good tips....I didn't know that.....all the more reason to get my shifter mounted on the floor......now, how hard is that to do?

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Aftermarket shifter? No, not really.
Factory/Console? I'd say fairly difficult to get everything right.

[RDF]

Aftermarket shifter? No, not really.
Factory/Console? I'd say fairly difficult to get everything right.

Definately aftermarket....I've kinda been eyeballing this one:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=BMM%2D81050&N=700+400004+4294822068+115&autoview=sku

  

[DanGoodman]

I still get racheting noises on mine, straight line mostly, and when I bring the rear up 1 notch on the air ride it goes away. My opinion is, differant heights will cause the noise. If I am riding to low (looks good, not practical) I get the noise, too high (per air ride standards) or just up a notch up the noise goes away.

Dan "JR" Goodman

[FJ5_440]

I still get racheting noises on mine, straight line mostly, and when I bring the rear up 1 notch on the air ride it goes away. My opinion is, differant heights will cause the noise. If I am riding to low (looks good, not practical) I get the noise, too high (per air ride standards) or just up a notch up the noise goes away.

Dan "JR" Goodman

Are you sure that it isn't the driveshaft angle causing the U joint to bind or tap something when you are "lowriding"?
I don't know why the gears or clutchpack would be affected by suspension height.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I still get racheting noises on mine, straight line mostly, and when I bring the rear up 1 notch on the air ride it goes away. My opinion is, differant heights will cause the noise. If I am riding to low (looks good, not practical) I get the noise, too high (per air ride standards) or just up a notch up the noise goes away.

Dan "JR" Goodman

If air ride would ever answer my questions i could fix the pinion angle.

[DanGoodman]

If air ride would ever answer my questions i could fix the pinion angle.

try posting the question on their forum, where everyone is watching, they appear answer all questions. I appreciate your help , son.

Dad

[ShelbyDogg]

If I let mine down too low and jump on it, my driveshaft thumps the tunnel and leaves spiining scrape marks in my tunnel's undercoating. I even run the factory pinion snubber (short). raising the car an inch makes it stop too.

[Tonefiend]

Bumping this great thread to the top because I am doing this for the first time tomorrow. I will let you all know how it goes. 

[ShelbyDogg]

Since you bumped this up, I edited in a picture of those PINS on my page 2 post, when I first mentioned them.  I took them from Terry's link to Manciniracing.com's website.

I don't have my crude drawing of the pins end to end with axles any more though.

Good luck with your 8-3/4 R&R.  I hope your are changing the complete center section and just saving the old one to reinstall in the future. You can never have enough of those in your basement.

[Tonefiend]

Well I got it out without any problems.  The prior owner really screwed things up.  The locking pawl was on wrong and the nut had come loose. The only thing holding the nut from backing out completely were the brakes.  There was about .090 end play! He used limited slip lube in it instead of the right type of gear oil.   The bolts holding the drive shaft on were not very tight. And one nut was missinig from the center section. 

The pinion nut was completely loose and backed out to the yoke.  This was my original problem, a loose pinion.  The bearings and seals are obviously shot.   There is some galling or grinding on a solid metal part inside, the carrier?   

The axels came out with no problems. I didn't need to slide hammer them at all.  I used a motorcycle lift to support the hogshead while I pulled it out. 

I might be better off finding a used 489 limited slip at this point. 

[ShelbyDogg]

Galling where? Around the pinion bearing?

You might get by with a new seal and crush sleeve. Maybe a new bearing and race.  Just measure the backlash on your ring gear with a dial indicator, then pull off the ring gear and bearings. Pull the pinion out and install the new crush sleeve and seal, then torque it down. Reinstall ring and bearings and set backlash.

Might as well try it since the depth is already setup with that gear set. Still cheaper than purchasing and  having another pig setup. I've seen crush sleeves at Orielly Auto Parts in the "help" section.

[Tonefiend]

Thanks,  I am going to have a friend who is familiar with this stuff help me check and repair the pinion.  The galling is on the differential case, I cant tell if someone ground on it or it was damaged somehow.