Removing a 3rd Member

[Chryco Psycho]

Approx 2 qts of gear oil , i use synthetic 75-90 but regular 80-90 works too

[72hemi]

Hey Chryco should synthetic oil only be used on new or freshly rebuilt 3rd members or is it okay to run it on 3rd members with a lot of miles on them?

[Chryco Psycho]

As long as the friction modifier is used I cannot see it damaging anything , the oil is superior is shear & load

[RDF]

This may sound like a silly question, but do I need to dissasemble the brakes to get the axles out?  I was told that I didn't need to, but then again that friend owns a chebby, not a mopar.....

[matt63]

Just pull the drums off.

[RDF]

ok, got them out and dropped the third member.....I took Goodys advise and took off all the bolts except the top one and opened the gap to let it drain.  I tried the trani-jack, but it was too big (too wide and bulky) under there so I just used a floor jack as recommended by Matt63 and lowered it slowly as I guided it with my hands.  All in all, it took about 1.5 hours to do.

It's definately an open carrier and it's confirmed with 2.76's...I read it on the ring gear and the rear-end tag.  So off they go tomorrow to get replaced with a suregrip unit and 3.91's.  I'll keep everyone posted as to how the install progress goes and what the end results are like on the street.  Stay tuned!!! 

[RaptorF229]

I just moved the brake setup out of the way. You don't need to take them apart. I had never done it before until recently. It was pretty easy though.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Sounds good robert, for the books i've had my axles out twice and yet to pull the brake assembly  with minimal resistance 


We'll have to line 'em up once you get all set 

[RDF]

We'll have to line 'em up once you get all set 

You're on pal......I just have to tune my carb next and then it should be good to go! 

[ShelbyDogg]

When you get your center section back, make sure that you have the center pins or block in your sure grip. Some use a block, some use 2 "headed-pins" that insert from each side.
Some of those guys expect you to run green bearings and don't include the pins when installing your sure-grip.
ASK THEM ABOUT THIS!  Those pins are available aftermarket and without them you will never get your axle end play adjusted. Hopefully you will have the block type. It doesn't fall out.


 When installing your axles, install the left one first and tighten down it's bearing retainer. Move to the passenger side, back off the adjuster, then tighten the 4 retainer bolts that don't hold the adjuster lock. You should be able to spin the adjuster with these 4 tight. Now adjust the endplay.

While you have your axles out, get 2 INNER grease seals and install them in the alxe housing (cheap and easy)
  Do not use green bearings.

Rob

[RDF]

When you get your center section back, make sure that you have the center pins or block in your sure grip. Some use a block, some use 2 "headed-pins" that insert from each side.
Some of those guys expect you to run green bearings and don't include the pins when installing your sure-grip.
ASK THEM ABOUT THIS!  Those pins are available aftermarket and without them you will never get your axle end play adjusted. Hopefully you will have the block type. It doesn't fall out.
 When installing your axles, install the left one first and tighten down it's bearing retainer. Move to the passenger side, back off the adjuster, then tighten the 4 retainer bolts that don't hold the adjuster lock. You should be able to spin the adjuster with these 4 tight. Now adjust the endplay.

While you have your axles out, get 2 INNER grease seals and install them in the alxe housing (cheap and easy)
  Do not use green bearings.

Rob

Pins, blocks? What?  I've never heard of this  .....and what's the endplay??  I didn't know you could adjust endplay in the rear end....where? how?  more important, why??  Now you got me scared putting this thing back in....

[GoodysGotaCuda]

You have to adjust the endplay of the axles. When you pulled the axles you probably will see a tab hooked to one of the studs, and it locks into a adjuster to hold. I beleive the spec is ~.030" endplay

[ShelbyDogg]

Ask the guy doing your "pig" about the block or pins. The axles will butt up against this center piece when installed into the center section.  It allows you to adjust the right axle, which pushes the left axle into it's bearing.
When you get your gear assembly back, look through the splined ends where the axle go, if you can see through to the other side, through a hole about 3/8" then yo are missing the pins. 

ASK THE GUY SETTING UP YOUR PIG.  If he doesn't know about this then he is a Chevy guy.

[Chryco Psycho]

there are 2 different types , the cone style uses a 1 piece floating pin or block that both axles press against allow the end play to be set , the clutch uses a 3 piece floater with to T shaped buttons & a rivet pin to hold the 2 together
 the end play is .008-.018

[RDF]

there are 2 different types , the cone style uses a 1 piece floating pin or block that both axles press against allow the end play to be set , the clutch uses a 3 piece floater with to T shaped buttons & a rivet pin to hold the 2 together
 the end play is .008-.018

Ok, that clears one part up for me....I asked the guy who I bought it from if it was clutch or cone and he said clutch.  Now how would I go about checking end play and making sure it's within range?