Removing a 3rd Member

[RDF]

I'll be attempting to remove my 3rd member from my 73 Cuda (8 3/4 rear end) Friday night.  I've never done it before, but I think all I should have to do is:

1.) Remove the driveshaft
2.) Remove the wheels
3.) Pull rear axles out part way.
4.) Unbolt case from axle housing.

My biggest question is, how do the rear axles come out?  Is there a bolt or c-clip that holds them in?  If I remember correctly, I think there is just a c-clip holding them in place, right? 

[FJ5_440]

There are 5 nuts behind the axle flange which can be accessed with a socket extension through the hole in the axle flange itself  (between the lugs).  You will have to turn the axle after removing each one to get at the next.  once those nuts are off just pull on the axle and slide it out about a foot.  No need to remove it completely.  You might want to have a jack under the center section when you slide it off the studs as it can get heavy quick.

[sleepychallenger]

might want to add drain fluid to your list before unbolt case from axle housing    your prefrence though

[72hemi]

Also I think it is five bolts on the axle flanges not four. It is really a straight forward simple procedure. I've done complete 3rd member swaps in about a half hour, from parking the car to back on the road.

[FJ5_440]

Also I think it is five bolts on the axle flanges not four. It is really a straight forward simple procedure. I've done complete 3rd member swaps in about a half hour, from parking the car to back on the road.

Thanks, I don't know what I was thinking with 4?
The ease of this swap is one of the best things about the 8 3/4.  I can keep a 2.76, a 3.23, and a 3.91 set up and ready to go and swap them in depending on how long the road trip will be.

[72hemi]

Exactly. I have about a half dozen center sections for various applications.

[matt63]

You could spend a half hour cleaning the gasket off if it hasn't been change before.   
Chasing the threads on the studs isn't a bad idea either.  The center section is very heavy so a floor jack under it is a good idea unless you are very strong.

[RDF]

Damn.....I wish I had that many setups floating around my garage.....in due time I suppose.

Thanks for the tips....It didn't seem like a hard (or long) job to do, I just wanted everyone's input and advise before moving forward.

Thanks again!

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Use that floor transmission jack that you have robert. Will make life easier going in and out with the 3rd member.

[RDF]

Use that floor transmission jack that you have robert. Will make life easier going in and out with the 3rd member.

Yeah I was thinking about that...I just have to be sure I jack up the car enough to get it out!  That's the only problem I had with the trani....the trani jack sits high, so it makes it tough....

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Do you still have those little jack stands? Check harbor freight's ad, you can pickup some 6ton (aka tall) jackstands for like $25. You'll wonder why you ever used little jack stands lol.

[Moparal]

In real life and being your first time, it will take a couple of hours to 3 hrs to do it right. Cleaning gaskets, hooking all back up, installing gear oil. Be sure you dont over tighten your u joint bolts and break them off.  There is no oil drain plug , so you may want to wiggle the 3rd member loose and let it drain before you pull it out. by hand or jack. It's around 70 lbs. The end play axle bearing adjuster will be on one of the 5 nuts you take off the bearing axle retainer. If a sure grip, be sure to install the propper lube for it. Now will be a very good time to inspect, clean and adjust your rear brakes and check wheel cylinders.

[RDF]

In real life and being your first time, it will take a couple of hours to 3 hrs to do it right. Cleaning gaskets, hooking all back up, installing gear oil. Be sure you dont over tighten your u joint bolts and break them off.  There is no oil drain plug , so you may want to wiggle the 3rd member loose and let it drain before you pull it out. by hand or jack. It's around 70 lbs. The end play axle bearing adjuster will be on one of the 5 nuts you take off the bearing axle retainer. If a sure grip, be sure to install the propper lube for it. Now will be a very good time to inspect, clean and adjust your rear brakes and check wheel cylinders.

I'm taking it out and having the Open carrier replaces with a suregrip.  Any suggestions on gear oil and/or lube?  How much?

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Dont forget limited slip additive so your clutches slip

[ChallengerHK]

For what it's worth, every time I've done this it's been with axles that have been in place for decades, and I've needed a slide hammer to free them.