Rust Frame

[Hopalong]

The left rear frame is rusty where the leaf spring mounts on my Challenger.  My options are reproductions of full or half frame rails, or the Safe-T-Caps from Auto Rust Technicians.  Has anyone here had any experience with ART?  It seems that the price is about the same either way.  I am not worried about how it looks as far as originallity as I am not doing a concours resto.  I will probably also have to do the trunk pans as well, if that makes any difference.

[R/T hedkace]

I don't know how bad your rust issue is, but I had the same problem, (as most E bodies do).
 I just cut out the rust with a cutoff wheel, fabricated a new piece, (I am new to this, though I am quite proud of myself).
Tacked it in place, migged the rest, and primed it.
It definitely was easier that replacing the whole rear frame rail, but I was also lucky enough to have the rust confined to this particular spot, and not the whole rail.
 How bad is your rail?
 Hope this helps ya a little bit 

[FY1Cuda]

That is some VERY nice work. Well done. 

[R/T hedkace]

That is some VERY nice work. Well done. 

Thank you very much 
 I've had five Challengers, and this is the first one that I have "attempted" to fix/restore.
I only arc welded a little in the past, but never migged, and never fabricated a piece for a car before, but I do find it very satisfying.
 I was a machinist in my previous life, so I think that the precision work I had to do there carries over to things like this 
 Really appreciate the comment, (considering I still am a rookie at this stuff) 

[Hopalong]

That is some nice work!  My problem is that the hole in the frame where the leaf spring shackle attaches is rusted out (up actually).  My concern is getting the hole in the right spot which is why I am looking at premade pieces.  If I get the new camera figured out, I'll get some pic's.

[bbscamp]

R/T:   pretty good stuff!  however;  slow down your MIG travel speed and up the current.  Your welds are a little on the cold side.

[R/T hedkace]

R/T:   pretty good stuff!  however;  slow down your MIG travel speed and up the current.  Your welds are a little on the cold side.

Thanks for the info bb, really appreciate it 
Although I don't think I'll be doing any welding anytime soon 
 By the way, just out of curiosity, what signs in the welds are able to tell you things like that?
 I'd love to know in the future, so I can tell what I am doing wrong, (like I siad, I'm not no pro by any stretch of the imagination).

 

That is some nice work!  My problem is that the hole in the frame where the leaf spring shackle attaches is rusted out (up actually).  My concern is getting the hole in the right spot which is why I am looking at premade pieces.  If I get the new camera figured out, I'll get some pic's.

It sounds like yours is in a tougher spot.
You might be better off going with the pre-made piece.
 Pics?
Did you figure out your camera out yet?
If not, send me a pm. Maybe I can at least help ya with that 
 

[bbscamp]

You should have a flatter, wider bead similar to the plug welds you did.  If you look at the sides of your welds, there is some undercutting to the base metal.  Think of the weld as an oval bead. If its burnt into the metal, there's too much current, if there is undercutting and the bead looks like its laying on top of the metal its too cold (and possible quick).  If its correct, the edges are running into the base metal, so that imaginary oval would have half of it on top of the weld, and the lower half into the base metal.  That way you'll have good penetration.

[R/T hedkace]

You should have a flatter, wider bead similar to the plug welds you did.  If you look at the sides of your welds, there is some undercutting to the base metal.  Think of the weld as an oval bead. If its burnt into the metal, there's too much current, if there is undercutting and the bead looks like its laying on top of the metal its too cold (and possible quick).  If its correct, the edges are running into the base metal, so that imaginary oval would have half of it on top of the weld, and the lower half into the base metal.  That way you'll have good penetration.

 I had to read that about five times before it sank in

1 .......
2.........
3.........
4......... 
5......... 

 Thanks a bunch for the response, and sharing of your knowledge bb 
I could have used you 500 welds ago  .............

[torredcuda]

I`m not a fan of the safety caps as they look cheasy and if you just weld them over the rusted rail it will start rusting the new cap out even faster as the process is already going strong underneath.As long as you support the car and don`t cut out everything at once the new rail should fall right into place.Of course still take as many measurements as you can and draw a diagram just to be sure.

[Hopalong]

Thanks Torred, that was what I thougt about the ART pieces as well, but they do look stout. 

I always look for good tips on welding.  Thanks bbscamp!