New rear brake line install?

[miketyler]

My rear hard brake lines look old and tired. Am thinking of replacing them since they are cheap. 

The t-fitting they start from is mounted atop the axle and is offset closer to the drivers side. My existing lines are longer than needed and have multiple S-bends in them.  Is that factory? I would like to run shorter 3/16 fixed lines from the T-fitting to the short flex line for the Cobra calipers. There are no functional issues with running a short line to the drivers brake and longer line to the passenger brake?   

[Chryco Psycho]

S bends are not factory
 make sure you weld tabs to the diff where the hard line ends & the flex line to the caliper connects to support the lines

[miketyler]

Cool - so one short and one long line bears no issue relative to equal pressure then? Yeah, the kit comes with thick metal tabs to weld to the axle housing. Includes clip retainers to hold the end of the flex line.

So what about double flaring? I bought the cheap kit from Harbor Freight. It kind've works but really scars up the tube just past the flare and the flare s off center.    

Any secrets to getting a nice double-flare on those tiny 3/16 lines?   

[GoodysGotaCuda]

There are tricks for doing good flares. It really does start with a good double flare kit however. It'll come out as good and as smooth as your tools are. As far as bending goes, just the same. I've used cheap, and nice roller eastwood tubing benders. Definately worth the money if you plan on doing it.

And the factory came with one short and one longer line on the diff, so no, no issues there. Just not any 'S' bends. Now you can get some pre-double-flared lines from say NAPA. Come in different lengths with fittings on them already. Bend them yourself. For something not too complicated it may be worth while to get a nice bender and some predone up lines to tweak.

Justa thought!

[gkring]

Cool - so one short and one long line bears no issue relative to equal pressure then? Yeah, the kit comes with thick metal tabs to weld to the axle housing. Includes clip retainers to hold the end of the flex line.

So what about double flaring? I bought the cheap kit from Harbor Freight. It kind've works but really scars up the tube just past the flare and the flare s off center.    

Any secrets to getting a nice double-flare on those tiny 3/16 lines?   

Deburr the inside and outside of the tube before trying the flair. You actually want to chamfer the outside the slightest bit. I've heard a cutoff wheel works better than a tubing cutter, but I haven't had any luck with that method. You also want to resiste the temptation to really crank down when doing the double flare step. A lighter flare is better. Too tight trying to force it makes it go off center and can crack the flare. I try to use preflared lines whenever possible. ne day I'll buy the nifty hydraulic professional type tool. The kind with individual dies work much better, but cost more. Here's one listed at inlinetube.com

[miketyler]

thanks for the advice, I may be able to finesse this thing using the anvil from the cheapie kit with my regular "dial type" flare tool with the bicycle grip. The HF rig has an anvil that you put in place to form the "egg" shape. Then you remove the anvil and proceed with the regular flare to lay the upper portin of the egg in doubling over the lower half. I have seen those premade lines and was wondering what type of fitting accepted that funny egg shaped flare. Silly me. 

We used these Parker style flaring tools, were really handy left the tube walls untouched. I also have the cool Parker beading tool as well for making beads in tubing for rubber hose connections. Way slick.

[miketyler]

Just wanted to update anyone that had an interest here; the Harbor Freight double flare kit is crap. But fear not as not all the cheap kits are crap. My buddy had just done a front disc conversion on his 69 Chevy truck. He had a kit that looked almost identical to the HF kit. It has a smoother finish on the body with larger wing nuts a longer slider handle, and what seems like a better quality conical die. The adapters looked the same as HF.  Anyhow, it left VERY little scarring on the tube, initial egg formation was smooth and even and final inside flare nice and symmetric. I think he said he paid $10 for it from a pawn shop.

The hydraulic kits probably do a dam* fine job but if you are on a budget there are some cheap kits that can get the job done as well 

   

[duodec]

 I have seen those premade lines and was wondering what type of fitting accepted that funny egg shaped flare. Silly me. 

We used to sell the egg-shaped flare brake tube for Volkswagen air cooled cars.  I think that type was common on European makes, but I don't know how widespread.

[patrick]

Check out finelines.com. I don't have all those cool tool's needed to bend and flare. I got this tip from a fellow Challenger Bro. The line's I got from them, were exact reproduction's. Good price's, and quick shipping.