Buy a recreation or non #'s 440-6 Cuda?

[uthustler]

Ive found two 1970 Cuda 4 speed 440-6 cars for sale.

Car #1 is a recreation for $60k. Car #2 is a true 440-6 4 speed car, just with a warranty block. $90k.


Is car #2 really worth $30k more in your opinion or not? Im looking for a nice cruiser that will appreciate with time and hold its value.

[wally426ci]

I say, Pay the 60k and have fun. that other 30k could go alot of places.... unless you really want a museum peice...

[Katfish]

I say, Pay the 60k and have fun. that other 30k could go alot of places.... unless you really want a museum peice...

   Are the cars in the same exact condition?  My guess is #1 is in much better shape, if this is the case #2 would really cost +100K

[cdecristo]

90k  for a warranty block 440-6 cuda? That seems high in todays market. right?

[HemiOrange70]

In my opinion, the recreation is NOT worth 60 k in this market. You could get one much cheaper 40k. The  warranty block car is NOT#'s matching if it has a waratny block and not worth that. I bet you could get a really nice NM 440 for 75K nowadays  Check moparts for a gauge in prices. An original 440 U code 70 cuda with 57k miles is asking 80k

[uthustler]

  Are the cars in the same exact condition?  My guess is #1 is in much better shape, if this is the case #2 would really cost +100K

Car #2-1970 Cuda 440+6 V code rare automatic 4.10 dana car.  All original body panels including trunk.  No rust ever.  Fresh laser straight black paint.  Shaker hood added.  Original front rubber bumper car.  Warranty block.  New seat covers, carpet, and headliner.  Everything mechanical has been rebuilt.  Power steering gear, pump, wiper motor, engine, trans, dana, everything.  All suspension components have been powder coated including K frame and dana.  Car has TTI headers and exhaust.  Original perfect date coded glass.  Chrome and bright work is excellent.  15x7 wheels with Polyglass tires.  Original fender tag.  All body numbers match VIN.  53,000 miles.  Beautiful car.  $90,000




Car #1-1970 Cuda 440+6 Pistol Grip 4 speed Shaker recreation Black exterior with Black Bucket Seat Interior.

Other options include Ralley Gauge cluster with 8K tach, new interior, power windows, PS, PB, road lamps and Go Wing.

Engine clutch and transmission recently rebuilt,6 pack is all new repop carbs and all no used parts, new Poly Glass repop tires on powder coated ralleys, all new interior uphostery, door panels carpet etc. Paint is 1 year old on this original to California E body. Front end, exhaust and brakes all rebuilt on this car.

Great car to enjoy and actually drive.

http://s234.photobucket.com/albums/ee96/PHJ426/1970%20Cuda/



$65,000.00

[uthustler]

below are both the cars. Let me know what you FEEL they are worth in today's market.

[Super Blue 72]

I like #1. 

$90k for a warranty block still to me is still a non #s matching engine.  All things considered, if the cars are both in the same condition, and assuming they don't need any further work, I like #1. 

The quandry comes when your approached and what do YOU feel more comfortable with?  Having to say it's not a real 440+6 or that you paid an extra $30k for a Non#s matching but original 440 +6 car? 

Are those extra couple of letters on the VIN that important to you?  It's up to you....    Some people like a "correct car", car # 2 would be "almost correct" or "more almost correct" to me.   Sorry if I sound sarcastic. 

I just looked at the pictures while I was typing this, they are both beautiful cars.

[MyMopar]

Well it is a tough decision.  IF you have $90k to spend for the fun of it, then you can buy the original.  HOWEVER, you did say you wanted a cruiser.  So ask yourself this, if you truely intend to drive the car, what would you do when you get a ding or dent in it.  If it is a true 440 Cuda you may be more upset knowing that a numbers matching car is being ruined versus a recreation.

Me, I would love to have an all original something.  my problem is I like to drive.  I would feel bad if something happened to an orignal car and once repaired might make me leary to take it out as often.  So now the car will sit and not be enjoyed as much.  Of course if I had deep pockets I may not care as much, but since I don't I do.
I'd buy the recreation (not for $60k) and drive the hell out of it w/o worrying.  If something were to happen, I could look at it as an opportunity to change it/make it better.

In the end though both cars will appreciate.  Of course one more than the other.  I'd take the $30k you saved and invest it smartly so that you can say taht your recreation is actually earning you money.

[Katfish]

Well looking at the pics, I would say #2 is the way to go.  That V on the VIN along with the shaker and dana would make up my mind.  If you can afford 60K, what's another 15-20K.

I'd bet they might take 75-80K, the market is not what it used to be.

[uthustler]

Well looking at the pics, I would say #2 is the way to go.  That V on the VIN along with the shaker and dana would make up my mind.  If you can afford 60K, what's another 15-20K.

I'd bet they might take 75-80K, the market is not what it used to be.

both have the shaker fwiw.

[DAYTONA]

if it is an original TX9 car, I would go with #2....it will appreciate and probably be easier to sell

[wally426ci]

Is that Chevy Orange on that "warranty block" ??

[72hemi]

Also car number to is not a factory shaker car, which at this point may or may not make a difference but is definately something to consider.

[uthustler]

if it is an original TX9 car, I would go with #2....it will appreciate and probably be easier to sell

what does TX9 mean?