The biggest thing about brakes is that they work off of a leverage principle. So the larger the rotor, the more leverage it has, the greater the stopping power. The easiest change you can make is to the factory 11.75 rotor. Bolt on deal, easy to do. If your running 15" wheels, you can go as large as a 12.12 rotor, but this is a custom set up like what Nascar uses and will require you to fab up spindles or change control arms to get them to go together. Once you get into 16, 17, or 18 inch wheels, then you can step up to 13 or 14 inch rotors. Even more leverage, hence greater stopping power.
Lightweight calipers will reduce unsprung weight, which is a very good thing. The Wilwood set up is quite a few pounds lighter than the stock iron calipers. The multiple pistons also provide additional "feel" when your hauling down from high speeds compared to a stocker, and the greater selection of pad compounds can allow you to tailer the level of heat the brakes will tolerate before fading.
Yes, the biggest complaint with stock steering is the over assist. The simplest change to fixing this is to use a Firm Feel stage 1,2,or 3 box or Steer and Gear police style unit. All offer new car performance with reduced over assist to provide a more late model feel than original boxes.
While were at it, the cheapest upgrade you can consider without changing anything at all is an alignment. Most shops will dig way back in their closets, find an old service manual, and apply an OEM, stock style alignment specs to your car for back when bias ply tires were all they had. Changing this will change the driving disposition of your car tremendously. Original specs called for negative caster and zero to positive camber. Changing these to 2-6 degrees of positive caster (most stock arms will only allow 3 to 4, but get as much as you can), 1/2 to 1 1/2 degrees negative camber, and 1/16 toe in will significantly change the way your car behaves compared to stock specs.
