What are you doing with your ebody this weekend?

[Topcat]

Hot summer night in So Cal...   

]

Damn! Don't you know it!

Muggy hell weather here as well.
thanks Hawaii.

[Jamiez]

Went to the annual Wings and Wheels show with my dad.  This year he brought his 1974 Impala which he's owned since new.  You can see it next to my Challenger:



Pictures can be found here:
http://s817.photobucket.com/user/j_zahler/library/Wheels%20and%20Wings%202015

Unfortunately my phone died like 2 weeks ago so I am back to using an older model which doesn't take as good of pictures and is harder to see int he sunlight (my excuse for the off center/thumb pictures!)

[hato]

went to a show friday and now have to figure out why my running lights went out on the way home. and trying to finish the t/a suspension rebuild so i can drive it before winter   took a photo op next to a superbird sorry for the graininess its from my iphone

[crash340]

I spent the weekend welding the rear torque boxes then subframe connectors into the Cuda,,,, BUT more importantly. For a long time now I have been chasing a rattle in my diff, spoke at length to Cass about it, googled the crap out of it, pulled the centre and set it up again,,, still there, it wasnt on drive, it was on coast and the noise sounded like some lug nuts in a jam tin full of oil. the oil is clean, bearings are good but it still rattles. I set the wheel bearing endfloat to spec, still rattles, The core is a new TrueTrac, now we know when using the factory adjustable wheel bearings on a Trutrac you have to use the supplied preload spacer pin that 'floats' in the core so the axle tips can contact through the pin. Have been tearing my hair out with this rattle. The other night on a run with the car my girlfirend said it sounded like it was coming from the passenger side of the car, to me it sounded like the centre. So, i tightened the wheel bearing adjuster up so there was next to no endfloat, took it for a thrashing......... NO RATTLE! checked wheel and dif centre temps with a temp gun and all good! so maybe the factory endfloat setting is not right for the TruTrac's.

[msbaugh]

I spent the weekend welding the rear torque boxes then subframe connectors into the Cuda,,,, BUT more importantly. For a long time now I have been chasing a rattle in my diff, spoke at length to Cass about it, googled the crap out of it, pulled the centre and set it up again,,, still there, it wasnt on drive, it was on coast and the noise sounded like some lug nuts in a jam tin full of oil. the oil is clean, bearings are good but it still rattles. I set the wheel bearing endfloat to spec, still rattles, The core is a new TrueTrac, now we know when using the factory adjustable wheel bearings on a Trutrac you have to use the supplied preload spacer pin that 'floats' in the core so the axle tips can contact through the pin. Have been tearing my hair out with this rattle. The other night on a run with the car my girlfirend said it sounded like it was coming from the passenger side of the car, to me it sounded like the centre. So, i tightened the wheel bearing adjuster up so there was next to no endfloat, took it for a thrashing......... NO RATTLE! checked wheel and dif centre temps with a temp gun and all good! so maybe the factory endfloat setting is not right for the TruTrac's.

The spacer is the small cylinder that fits between the splines in the true-trac, correct? If so what was your final end play adjustment on your stock bearing axles?? I'm about to install a 489 from dr. Diff with a true trac and want to get it right. I still have adjustable bearings, I don't want green bearings...

Thanks for mentioning this, I'm glad you did. I'll make sure to have the spacer in place.


Also... How were the torque box installations? I want to instal front and rears on my car but it's pretty much complete. I've got sub frame connectors welded in so its the last in my chassis stiffining list

[734406pk]

I spent the weekend welding the rear torque boxes then subframe connectors into the Cuda,,,, BUT more importantly. For a long time now I have been chasing a rattle in my diff, spoke at length to Cass about it, googled the crap out of it, pulled the centre and set it up again,,, still there, it wasnt on drive, it was on coast and the noise sounded like some lug nuts in a jam tin full of oil. the oil is clean, bearings are good but it still rattles. I set the wheel bearing endfloat to spec, still rattles, The core is a new TrueTrac, now we know when using the factory adjustable wheel bearings on a Trutrac you have to use the supplied preload spacer pin that 'floats' in the core so the axle tips can contact through the pin. Have been tearing my hair out with this rattle. The other night on a run with the car my girlfirend said it sounded like it was coming from the passenger side of the car, to me it sounded like the centre. So, i tightened the wheel bearing adjuster up so there was next to no endfloat, took it for a thrashing......... NO RATTLE! checked wheel and dif centre temps with a temp gun and all good! so maybe the factory endfloat setting is not right for the TruTrac's.

That's interesting! Thanks for the info.

[crash340]

Ok, torque boxes took some fitting to sit the way I wanted them, the rears hung down too much at the front so about a 1/4 had to come off, jus use a sharpie and do it bit by bit, if you take too much off the gap will be hard to fill against the body sheet metal, I put the rears  in before the connectors, I have US cartools torque boxes. Takes a bit of time but pretty easy, move your gas line and brake line away before you start then they go back in, you will cover one of the line support bolt holes on each side, just re drill them once done.

Now the diff,  yes that solid lump of round steel goes into the centre from either side and once the axles are in each axle presses up against either end.  Green bearing users won't use it. I suggest setting up the end lost per the manual. Take it for a spin and listen for a rattley clunk, just like there's a bolt inside flopping about, you won't miss it, it's not a constant tick with speed. If yours make the noise, just creep up on the adjuster until it goes away, I never measured the results from yesterday, I could not feel any end float pulling the axle in and out by hand, after I put the wheel back on I could feel just a small amount. CHECK FOR BEARING HEAT once back together

[msbaugh]

Going to finish assembly of my 727... got everything put together and air checks are solid now. Billet steel drum, all Teflon seals, bolt in sprag, raysbestos red clutches and bands, billet servos and manual vb! This one should be good, just need to order a torque converter and flex plate now. Thinking I'll go with the dynamic 9 1/2"

[crash340]

Thats great, it would be nice to have a sticky on what to use and what not to use for a 727 build that is good for around 7-800 Hp for street strip use

[734406pk]

Going to finish assembly of my 727... got everything put together and air checks are solid now. Billet steel drum, all Teflon seals, bolt in sprag, raysbestos red clutches and bands, billet servos and manual vb! This one should be good, just need to order a torque converter and flex plate now. Thinking I'll go with the dynamic 9 1/2"

Awesome job on the trans! What was your issue earlier with front clutch leakage on the air test? Was it those pesky Teflon slip rings? Also when you swap to a 9-1/2" converter, the torque converter/flex plate bolts will hit the stock cover plate (smaller bolt circle) unfortunately. Post results after you install the trans and test, I'm interested in that manual valve body setup. Thanks!

[msbaugh]

Awesome job on the trans! What was your issue earlier with front clutch leakage on the air test? Was it those pesky Teflon slip rings? Also when you swap to a 9-1/2" converter, the torque converter/flex plate bolts will hit the stock cover plate (smaller bolt circle) unfortunately. Post results after you install the trans and test, I'm interested in that manual valve body setup. Thanks!

Yes my issue was the front clutch air test... specifically the 2 Teflon sealing rings on the reaction shaft where the front drum slides over. The drum was new, bushing was new , and seals were new... I had read some bonehead online giving advise and packed the ring grooves with assembly lube, then put the rings on and compressed them to keep them from getting ruined when you slide the drum over. Turns out you don't need to cover Teflon rings in lube and you sure don't want it in the grooves. Just a small amount on the outside. You want to feel them compress when you slide it over that way it's up against the drum real good and then turn the drum while you air test.

For the 9 1/2 converter are you referring to the access plate/dust cover? If so, never had one anyways so should be good to go!  I will get a new flex plate from them when I order...   

[AARuFAST]

   Gran Coupe convertible  blew driver side exhaust manifold gasket.  Snapped stud off inside head.
Figure wait for winter to pull head  I put new gasket on .... no leak.
Went to car show in Chesapeake City Md. Got award one of 30 out of 700 cars.
Drove around to city dock with cars for award..      Just when it was
my turn to drive up the passenger intake manifold gasket BLOWS. Sounded like
a fire engine to pick up award.
   YEP removed passenger side manifold snapped of another stud.
Pulled heads Monday and they are being refurbished at machine shop.....   

[734406pk]

Yes my issue was the front clutch air test... specifically the 2 Teflon sealing rings on the reaction shaft where the front drum slides over. The drum was new, bushing was new , and seals were new... I had read some bonehead online giving advise and packed the ring grooves with assembly lube, then put the rings on and compressed them to keep them from getting ruined when you slide the drum over. Turns out you don't need to cover Teflon rings in lube and you sure don't want it in the grooves. Just a small amount on the outside. You want to feel them compress when you slide it over that way it's up against the drum real good and then turn the drum while you air test.

For the 9 1/2 converter are you referring to the access plate/dust cover? If so, never had one anyways so should be good to go!  I will get a new flex plate from them when I order...   

Good deal-you found the problem! Yes you can lube steel slip rings with out issue, but Teflon rings are a different animal. I guess the lube made the Teflon rings stick to the reaction shaft and not seal to the drum. At least you found it and it was an easy fix. And yes it's the dust cover I'm referring to. No problem if you are running with out one except for...dust. HaHa! Nice job on the trans... Not many people would take on a task like that. Good luck on the test run and please post results. 

[734406pk]

  Gran Coupe convertible  blew driver side exhaust manifold gasket.  Snapped stud off inside head.
Figure wait for winter to pull head  I put new gasket on .... no leak.
Went to car show in Chesapeake City Md. Got award one of 30 out of 700 cars.
Drove around to city dock with cars for award..      Just when it was
my turn to drive up the passenger intake manifold gasket BLOWS. Sounded like
a fire engine to pick up award.
   YEP removed passenger side manifold snapped of another stud.
Pulled heads Monday and they are being refurbished at machine shop.....   

Congrats on your award! Good luck with your cylinder head repair!

[734406pk]

Attending 2 carshows this weekend. 1 is an Advance Auto customer appreciation show about an hour away and a Memorial Benifit Show on Sunday close by. The weather for Saturday is ok but Sunday may have thunderstorms. I hope the rain will hold off for the benefit show, but I packed the cover in the trunk. I am constantly amazed at the attention that the E-bodies get at car shows. Camaros and Mustangs etc everywhere but the Cudas and Challengers always seem to draw a large crowd. Very good to see.