What are you doing with your ebody this weekend?

[wally426ci]

Well, It didnt work... maybe someone can start a thread if they had success....... 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Well, It didnt work... maybe someone can start a thread if they had success....... 

What did you do to try to calibrate it?

[wally426ci]

Well, I bent the arm so the float sits lower but it didnt really change where the fuel gauge reads. It now has a considerable bend in it, just enough to get it in the tank. And Im only reading an 1/8th tank. 

We can start a thread if youd like..... maybe get some suggestions... 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Don't worry Wally, I've never been able to get my autometer gauge straight it reads WAY over full when full, who knows after that 

[wally426ci]

I know, it sucks... 

This is the only car Ive ever had a probel with not reading right. Some of the other ones just plain didnt work.... I cant figure this one out.... 

[BoughtItNew]

Mine reads way UNDER full when full.  I also have the adjustable circuit board on the back and it still doesn't work.

The sender should read 73 ohms at empty and between 8-12 when full if it is a stock sender.  Check at the sender and the gauge to see if you have resistance in the wiring.  I've just learned to read the gauge as is.

BTW, I worked for Auto Meter for almost 20 years...

[Bullitt-]

Did you try raising & lowering the sending unit while it was out or the tank to see what effect it would have on the gauge? Are you sure you have the best of grounds?

[wally426ci]

Maybe I will try that this weekend......  I was working in tight quarters & it was freezing outside.... 

[BoughtItNew]

I've also jumpered to good ground w/little change.  Make sure you're getting system voltage on the B+ terminal on the guage.  I found a few connected to the low voltage regulator that provided power to the original gauge.  That will definately cause problems.

Have you talked with the tech guys in Sycamore?  Call and ask for Cory in service.  He's probably your best shot for good info on this.  (815) 895-8141.

[Bullitt-]

found this on an old thread 

I would point out a couple of things:

1) The sending unit is supposed to read 10 Ohms when the tank is full.

2) The sending unit is suppose to read 78.5 Ohms when the tank is empty.

3) The voltage regulator on the back of your instrument cluster can cause the gauges to read improperly, but it usually will
effect the oil pressure and temperature as well.

4) You can check the calibration on the fuel gauge itself by replacing the sending unit with a 10 Ohm resistor, and if it reads full scale (after a couple of minutes), then
the gauge is OK and it is the sending unit that is the problem. Radio shack sells 10 Ohm and 80 Ohm resistors (Close enough to 78.5 Ohms).

See these links for more information:

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Mine reads way UNDER full when full.  I also have the adjustable circuit board on the back and it still doesn't work.

The sender should read 240 ohms at empty and between 8-12 when full if it is a stock sender.  Check at the sender and the gauge to see if you have resistance in the wiring.  I've just learned to read the gauge as is.

BTW, I worked for Auto Meter for almost 20 years...

I think that is most of the problem with my autometer gauge. The gauge I have reads 240empty (perfect) and 33ohms full (off by about 20ohms!). So it's seeing 12ohms and saying its way full full full.

[BoughtItNew]

I just modified my post as I was working from memory and got a couple specs mixed up.  The Ford/Chrysler sender is indeed 73/8-12.  If you have a 240/33 its the universal or otherwise known as Stewart Warner spec.  If you have the matching gauge/sender it should work.  Another common problem I ran into in the field was when someone bought a replacement aftermarket or universal sender they would get the Chrysler recommended gauge and then have problems.  Be sure the sender and gauge are matched.

Adding resistance will only work on one end or the other. 

I had a truck I did an Auto Meter dash in and it worked fine.  I've always suspected a wiring problem in my Cuda but never thought it important enough to tear the dash back down to chase.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Well, I bent the arm so the float sits lower but it didnt really change where the fuel gauge reads. It now has a considerable bend in it, just enough to get it in the tank. And Im only reading an 1/8th tank. 

We can start a thread if youd like..... maybe get some suggestions... 

Wally,

  Do you have an ohm meter to check that sending unit out? It should read about 12-70 ohms as the float moves up and down. I'm betting your's reads more.


   Mike

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Welp, I give. I got curious enough to mess with my autometer and stock fuel sender setup again today. Still no luck, third time doing this. My gauge goes from Full, 3/4, to 1/2 tank within about 1.5" of sender travel. The last 1/4 tank to empty is in the last 1" or so. Which is totally unproportional. Fuel about 1" below the sender port, reading 1/4 tank..wonderful

[BoughtItNew]

This might shed some light on the subject.  The article  refers to Ford but the specs for the stock senders are the same for Chryco.

http://www.autometer.com/tech_faq_answer.aspx?sid=1&qid=56