Author Topic: New Rebuild Cooling  (Read 1041 times)

Offline BadJoey

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New Rebuild Cooling
« on: April 26, 2008 - 10:02:41 PM »
I have a new rebuild 440 in my car . I hope to start it for the first time next Sat . My question is do I have to pull the thermostat when fulling the cooling system to purge the air out ? I'm worried that the back presure from adding the coolant will cause a big air bubble causing the engine to get too hot before the thermostat opens perhaps causing damage ? :working:




Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #1 on: April 26, 2008 - 10:06:01 PM »
Best way is to install the thermostat with a 1/8" hole drilled in it for air to pass. If thats not do-able then start up the engine with the cap off, once the stat opens that air will release then top the coolant level pack off and cap it. Or i've heard of people just leaving the radiator drain open and a hose running on initial fire. Then just using the block drains and flush it out with fresh distilled water/coolant
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Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2008 - 07:13:19 AM »
  Drilling a small hole can work but they already have a hole in them, if it worries you fill up the radiator until the water reaches the thermostat opening and install the thernostat.   :thumbsup:
Dave

Offline BadJoey

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #3 on: April 27, 2008 - 08:50:30 AM »
The thermostat is already in . My concern comes from . I'm a snowmobiler and a few years back I got a recall seems there was a part of the cooling system that was holding air , meaning that part of the motor wasn't getting cooled leading to a blown engine .If the motor had to wait for steam to open the thermostat instead of hot water I'm not sure what that would mean . This thinking just came to me so I'm not sure if there is a hole in the thermostat or not . Looks like I'm pulling it out . I guess it's not really a big deal . Thanks guys .

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #4 on: April 27, 2008 - 12:20:30 PM »
I have nebver had an issue on a big block , a tiny hole 1/16 is lots if you do pull it , I usually leave the cap on but only on the frist position for 3-4 mins so I can top it up & then twist it on tight

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Offline BadJoey

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2008 - 06:08:20 PM »
Hole is drilled . Thanks . :thumbsup:

Offline Aussie Challenger

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #6 on: April 28, 2008 - 06:38:06 AM »
  As  C.P. said 440's and for that matter small blocks don't have a problem. If you want a vehicle with bleeding problems, try a subaru WRX or some of the BMW's.
Dave

Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #7 on: April 29, 2008 - 08:37:09 PM »
  As  C.P. said 440's and for that matter small blocks don't have a problem. If you want a vehicle with bleeding problems, try a subaru WRX or some of the BMW's.

Nah a good vacuum coolant setup and no issues with the bimmers. Basically put the cooling system in a vacuum, use that vacuum to fill it back up..airless.
Build Page: Goody's 'Cuda Build Page
1976 Dodge Warlock
1972 Barracuda - 5.7 Hemi + T56 Magnum

Wheel & Tire Specs:Link

Offline Grundy

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Re: New Rebuild Cooling
« Reply #8 on: May 06, 2008 - 09:21:15 AM »
How do you know if the pump is pumping right? I've been running a little hot. Last nite I let it sit for a while after coming home from the alignment shop.. i squeezed the top radiator hose and it sounded like there was a huge bubble in the tube - it gurgled into the radiator. Am I airbound? The radiator is full and I have a recovery can in there. Should I take the hose off and check for crap in the t-stat?
Drive it like you stole it.