Author Topic: ShelbyDogg's 71 Challenger Pace Car (clone) (Read 100537 times)

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #150 on:** March 14, 2011 - 12:07:29 AM »

Installed my pre-wired dash last week.

I modified my headlight harness to include my custom headlight relays and circuit breakers. I always wire in a diode across the relay coils to kill any induced voltage (spark) when the fields collapse, when turning off the relays. Remember, I have a fuel injection computer on board and I don't want any strange spikes resetting it. A relay is like a tiny coil.

Installed my grill, headlight bezels, headlights and bumper. I wasn't going to put on the front license bracket on but with the front bumper having a cut-out for it, I'll use a front plate with something Mopar on it.

I bought these 4 headlights with H4 bulbs on Ebay for $25 about 3 years back. I found out why they were so cheap. I had to grind off the rear plastic alignment tabs because they were in the wrong place. I also had to modify the stainless rings that fit around the glass because the headlight diameter was a little bigger that a stock headlight.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #151 on:** March 17, 2011 - 01:02:31 AM »

My top pump�s reservoir was leaking so I got a later model pump out of a car in a junk yard. Can�t remember what I got it out of but it was newer and had a relay that reverses the motor polarity by just applying power to one of two small wires. Power is supplied by one big wire. This will keep the high current out of my dash�s power top switch. The motor also just has one big winding and not two separate small windings like the stock pump�s motor. Here is a pic of the pump, relay and cylinders while I was cycling the cylinders to get the air out and top off the reservoir. Going to try to install my top tomorrow.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #152 on:** March 31, 2011 - 01:02:42 AM »

I took a day off of work, hoping to get my convertible top and window installed. It didn't happen that day.
I first installed my pump, cylinders, and Top frame assembly.

First thing is to find the center of the rear bow and mark it, to center the rear window.

I dug out the old tack strip to make way for the new one.

Took off the weather stripping to get to the phillips screws that hold the channel over the top's sides then unscrewed the top cables.

Worked my way forward and took off the rear bow to paint it and prep it for a new tack strip.

Got to the front and found a problem, RUST where the pads have to screw down. Someone had Duct taped the pads to the header, which only help it rust more.

Pulled the front header off to repair it.

Started making a new part out of 16 ga, with a big hammer and a cutoff wheel. I'll have to make the rest of it when it warms up a little.

I decided to hook up and test my used alarm system. I got it for free without remotes. Found a used remote on Ebay for $43. This alarm is a 2-way system that pages my remote up to a mile away under line-of sight conditions. This would work for me when I'm in a hotel room and my car is in a parking lot. It is a Clifford Matrix 2.5x unit with a backup battery in case they disconnect the main battery. It will also lock/unlock my door lock actuators and pop my trunk. It's LCD display shows me if a door, trunk or hood is open.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #153 on:** April 03, 2011 - 01:26:57 PM »

I wanted to put my alarm system in but the long range antenna gets taped to the windshield behind the mirror. So, last night was a good time to put my winshield in. It was a new, non-tinted glass with a few scratches but I found it for $100 on Craigslist. I used 3/8" Urethane ribbon to stick it.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #154 on:** April 19, 2011 - 10:57:39 PM »

Fixed the convertible top header driver's side:

Then repaired the passenger side: These corners are important to keep the top pads tight and pull mid and rear bows as the top closes.

I hid and wired the alarm and then attached the alarm's antenna to the windshield

Remote is a 2-way and shows me if the door, trunk or hood is open, and beeps or vibrates when the alarm goes off.

Installed actuators hooked to my alarm system, using this diagram. A door actuator kit can be bought on Ebay for less than $20.
I found mine in a junk yard car for $1 each. The actuator rod attaches to the lock rod with this pictured metal block and allen lock screws. You can also use this on a '70 door latch because it locks the doors AFTER you close them, when you arm the system. No more keys scratching your paint.

Installed a 4 fuse trunk fusebox and relay for the trunk release. It is hidden over the rear wheelwell. The fuses protect my trunk release and the circuit breaker protects and powers my power top motor.

I always install a cig-lighter/power plug in my trunk to power a compressor, work light or light my cigs. I also installed an on/off switch for my trunk light so I can turnit off when the trunk is open.

Installed hood pins because Ilike the way they look.

I have to put my windows in before I install and adjust the top, so that is next.
I ordered a white hood blackout so the hood will match the lettering and interior. Black won't match anything.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #155 on:** April 24, 2011 - 09:28:16 AM »

I decided that the hood should match the white pace car decals so I added a white "blackout"on it last night. It will break up some of the orange.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #156 on:** May 09, 2011 - 02:47:44 AM »

I found some decals on the web to put on my windshield. I modified them a little and printed them out. Since I can't print white, I printed these to a clear transparency then paited the back with white paint for plastic. Installed them right above my VIN tag.

I installed my windows so that I could adjust the top frame and finally put the top on. I was quoted between $600 and $1000 for a shop to do it. I decided to try it myself.
The window cost me $100 and the top cost me $200 so if I screw up a top or two It is still cheaper than giving the money to someone else.

I was sold some tack stips from Year one. The rear one was too low compared to the original. I ended up glueing both strips in "SIDEWAYS" then trimming the taller one down. I could not find anyone that sold a 1/2"x 1/2" tack strip. What you see here are 2 tack strips side by side. These were the front and rear one that they sold me. I didn't see a front one on this car. Maybe that's a Chevy thing?

I centered the rear window and put in some temporary staples to hold it.

From the inside, I held up the glass with one hand, while I poked holes and installed 1/4" bolts to hold the rear material tight. I had to install these to have an idea where to install the rear tack strip.

This is what it looks like with the bolts holding it tight.

I used a gold marker to mark a line where the tack strip should go.

I took the whole window out by unzipping top section and laid it down next to the tack strip.

I installed nuts and bolts through the new holes and tack strip to hold them together,

then stapled them together.

I reinstalled the window, now using the tacking strip and it's hardware to hold it in. I then restapled the top over the window to remove any loose wrinkles.
Look at the tight fit. The sides get tighter when the side tack strip are installed.

Installed the "PADS" next. These keep the bows in line and protect the sides of the top. I first drilled 4 holes in the front header. After doubling over the front edge, I poked a sharp awl through the material and installed #8 screws to hold it.I then pulled them as tight as I could before stapling them to the bows, ending at the back window.I sprayed a little adhesive into the pad cover before folding the top closed then stapling it closed.

Tied the included string to the top cables, then pulled the through.

draped the full top on the car, then pulled it out in the sun to soften it and relax the wrinkles.

Here it is waiting for the rear side tack strips, then front header attachment. That's next. So far this took a full day.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #157 on:** May 11, 2011 - 02:45:50 PM »

I wanted to redo my rear pad mounting and install it under the rear curtain material so I puuled it back off and restapled it.

Sides come premarked with holes for the bolts.

I installed them to see if they fit with a couple of staples. Once satisfied, I unbolted them then stapled them all the way down.

Had to use 3m spray adhesive to stick these tightly around the side-rear window weatherstriping. These get sandwitched under the weatherstrip channel.

I used a box to hold the top up since it's weight pulls oil past the top cylinder pistons. Put a battery charger on the battery because the constant pump use drained my new battery.

Once I was satisfied with the final lenght, I cut the bottom portion of this off, then bolted it in. Make sure you are sure on the length because I've had to take this tack strip and rear window out at least 20 times to adjust and check tension.

I streched the front around the front header and spray glued it, then cut off the excess.

My top was a Kee Auto top from Year One. It had markings on the corners for length. It also came with a fat deflector strip to glue on, to protect the front top edge. This didn't come on the factory tops.

Last row of staples that go under the rear bow cover. I have to buy some longer staples before I can install it. Cover is in the picture.

Getting close! I have about 4 days in this thing and can see why someone would pay $600 to $1200 to get this installed. I would probably charge the same thing. Very labor intensive!.

Installed my Well liner from Year one. This gets glued in the front at tope of the rear seat back support.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #158 on:** June 04, 2011 - 01:29:37 AM »

Got my Legendary set covers and foams.

Had to do something about these rotten seats.

Bought some burlap and 1/8" steel rods from Ace Hardware. Steel rods go inside the seat cover to add character to the seat by pulling the main section in for looks.

Had to shape the wire, then insert it, straighten it then rebend it while I was installing it.

Wrapped burlap around the frme and hog ringed it on.

Rear seat also need repair. It's frame was very rusty with sections rusted away. I'll have to weld a rod across these holes to hog ring the seat cover to.

Marked the Dash for my reverse light.

Tuning the EFI with a laptop for the Idle tune. Once I get it driving, it will tune itself when the laptop is connected.

Painted the Console. I had a good black one but didn't want to waste a good gold one, so I painted it black.

Took my car to get the front end aligned.I wanted the adjustments prerfomed at driving weight so I added some weight to the trunk to simulate the stuff I actually carry like a spare, a jack, toolbox, tools, alternator, starter, etc. I wanted it to sit like it had 2 people in it too, so I loaded up the inside with a two boxes of weights. Driving it home from the shop, I noticed the rear end really sagging, which wasn't that low befor driving it the 1-1/2 miles to and from the place. The rear springs are the cheap Mopar performance XHD e-body springs that I replaced to top spring with a stock e-body USA metal leaf from an old set that I had but it only helped a little.

Time to add an extra USA leaf Like I did in my hardtop.

Took a B-body spare mail leaf and cut off the ends.

Added it to the stack, right under the main leaf. Used c-Clamps to hold the leaves together, while I put the main bolt back in. I'll have to make some leaf spring straps to clamp the front ard rear together,

Car sits exactly where I like it.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #159 on:** June 06, 2011 - 12:22:55 AM »

Mounted my reverse light inducator.

Did my driver's seat

Had to do the driver's side add-a-leaf. Here is a another pic of the saggy butt left side. Right side is up and done.

Cut the ends off the b-body spring. It has more arch than my e-body springs.

Dropped the lower leaves, removed all except the top spring, installed the extra spring between it and all of the lower leaves. I had to leave the very bottom spring off since my center bolt was too short. I'll re-add them back to each side once I find some longer bolts.

Once installed, second leaf sits inder the eye. I used c-clamps and vice grips to hold the sping together as I added leafs.

New improved ride height.

Installed "illumin8s" LED turn signals and driving lights. His user name here is "bigblu73"

Put them in my 70 RT too.

Still have to finish my other seats and tune it.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #160 on:** June 25, 2011 - 11:38:08 AM »

I still had to do my other seats.

Here is the Passenger seat. The foam was usable but for for $100, it got new buns. THIS IS THE DELUXE SEAT COVER

I unbolted the back, flipped it over and started cutting off the old hog rings.

Here is the old and new foam,

There is a piece of wire on the back of the old foam that pulls the insert into the foam to give it it's shape.This is the old usable old one I pulled out to reuse. You can see it behind the spring in the picture above. It is different shape if you don't have the deluxe seat cover!

I flipped it over and started hog ringing the insert wire to the rear foam wire through the foam. See my driver's seat pics above to see how I made the insert wire, then installed it. Here it is pulled in.

I hog ringed 2 layers of burlap over the seat springs. to protect the foam. My old seat didn't have it.

I put the cover and foam over the seat frame and hog ringed the foam stips to the frame. These strips get glued to the foam per the instructions that came with the foam buns. I then started wrestling with it on a piece of cardboard on the garage floor.

It is like trying to sit on an alligator and pull his belly skin up and over his face and body!
You just keep pulling here and there, massaging the cover, pulling some more, letting it absorb some heat from the sun, then pull and tug some more. You better have some good hand and grip strength. Check for straightness, then hog ring it down!

Did the bottom the same way. Made 2 wires. One for the cover insert, one for under the foam then hog ringed them together. I used 1/8" steel rod from Ace Hardware to bend up a new one and place it behind the middle foam area. it is a copy of the original, just not rusted and deteriorated yet. Then started the pulling and tugging on the floor.

This was the rear seat back for a convertible. No foam at all. Just a smelly nasty cotton stuffing like inside an old chair grandma sat in. It went right to the garbage. The frames were so rusty that I painted them with 2 coats of RUST MORT, then primer, then black Rustoleum.

Went to the Hobby Lobby store and bought waterproof polyester stuffing. 24" tall, 2" thick, $20 a yard.

Also found a piece of carpet pad to put under it.

Ready to install the cover. Seat frame has burlap, then padding, then polyester pad.

Used new burlap and OLD FOAM for the rear seat bottom. Very easy to put on new covers over old foam!

Rear seat installed.

Nice new white interior!

Do a little everyday and you'll be driving someday!

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #161 on:** July 01, 2011 - 02:05:23 PM »

Here is a reminder picture of my Ebay purchased vert.

And here is a picture of my goofy face with my Preggo daughter going for a drive. She is due in Nov. We just left the OB/GYN's office and found out that they are having a boy. So, Ill be a GRANDPA!

Paid $15,000 for this rusty convertible on Ebay.
+Spent about $5000 in parts
+Added long hours with sweat and some blood.
= I have my Pace Car that many have NEVER EVER seen one of.

Grec · « **Reply #162 on:** July 01, 2011 - 02:27:56 PM »

Beautiful car!

I'm really digging the body-colored T/A spoiler and front air dam thingys

NoMope Greg · « **Reply #163 on:** July 01, 2011 - 03:09:27 PM »

Nice! I've enjoyed following along on all the hard work you've put into that car.

And congrats to your family on the impending addition.

ShelbyDogg · « **Reply #164 on:** July 01, 2011 - 03:46:31 PM »

Quote from: Grec on July 01, 2011 - 02:27:56 PM

I'm really digging the body-colored T/A spoiler and front air dam thingys

Thanks for following along guys. I had to lock the thread since it was a 3-1/2 year build. This thing would have been 100 pages of comments.

I wasn't sure what to do with those, so when I had the car painted, I threw those in with the mirrors. I wanted them to match and could always change the color later.

Author Topic: ShelbyDogg's 71 Challenger Pace Car (clone) (Read 100537 times)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

Grec

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

NoMope Greg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)

ShelbyDogg

Re: ShelbyDogg's Pace Car (wannabe)