I have no idea what you just said about the timing. From the sound of it, the timing is way to advanced. Not because of the cam. The distributor. Tuning by ear is for backyard hacks. Regardless of what you ear says, it doesnt like the setting you have, because it's a performing like a pig. Timing by ear would only work if you were at full throttle with aload on the engine. Otehrwise, it just sets the engine up to free rev nicely. Not make power. The high stall blows thru where the advances would be helping you, so that car should be jumping off the line. That and the effective gear (comparing to a 28" tire car) is closer to 4.56s than 4.11s. If everything was right, I'd be expecting you to be 60' in the 1.95 range with ETs in the ultra low 13s or high 12s. You need two things. A decent timing light with dial in advance. Then you need to spend the time to tune the ignition curve. My starters for your setup would be 15-18° initial, with total in the 34-36° range, all in by 2500. Then, tune the carb. Then go to the track again. As a "for instance", my '74 3.23 4sp, with a re-ringed '69 340 longblock, stock Tquad intake and carb, Jacobs ignition, and 1 5/8 crushed headers with turbo mufflers and a Comp 268H cam (back in late 80s) would run 13.0 on stock radials. 12.40s on spray. You should be faster, and anything that indicates something out of whack takes away from your performance. Get it all perfect. Then if it doesnt run, its the engine.
