340 not pulling the way it should

[ntstlgl1970]

my trap speed is 100mph @ 5700 ish
60 ft time is terrible, 2.13 to 2.16 and thats buzzing the stall up in the 2900 to 3000 range...

13.8@100

5700 RPM with 4.11:1 gears and a 26.5 tire? That doesn't sound right at all. I would think you would go through the traps over 6k easy or nose over just before

from Moper: ....3K stall and a 26"tire with 4.11s that thing should be much quicker off the line, but die up top. What rpm do you hit the traps at?....

May be a couple of things going on here, did you verify the rear gear ratio? sounds more like you have 3:55's or something in which case I would say everything sounds reasonable for a mild 3.55 small block e body car. Also you mentioned altitude, what altitude are you at? that can make a big difference in ET.

No other way to put this but I think the seller might have sold you a bridge, hope not, but it's kinda sounding that way. Might be worthwhile to set everything to stock and see what it does and tune from there. Verify the balancer hasn't slipped and all that.

[Moparal]

Yeah I just caught that altitude on the last post. That in itself will make or break this question to some degree

[nivvy]

would have to be alot of altitude change to drop a full second... also a radial tire??? et street??? with your 60ft im guessing  radial tire....that alone would be a second drop just in tires... but yea mph gears / time aint adding up.....

If the guys is claiming high 12's he may have did it with slicks / open headers / no air cleaner / altitude etc....  alot of guys around here have shady 1/4 times at the track and then go out in the street and get smoked by slower cars.....

that would explain alot....

[leanburn]

i appreiciate the help guys but things are getting sidetracked. it doesn't matter if i ran a 20's 1/4 or a 10s 1/4 the fact is that the performance does not change with the timing so i'm trying to find out what the easiest way to check my cam timing or if there would be something else that may cause this.
 but to answer some questions yes i definately have 411's, they are street tires wich shouldn't matter cause i had no loss of traction and are air quality is anywhere from 2800 to 3500'.

[nivvy]

okay so basicaly you wanna know why you dont get quicker in the 1/4 because up bumping up the timing....  you say it runs great and pulls good but just dont e.t. any better from the timing... when using the other timing light what was your initial and total timing.... you are clamping on the #1 wire right...how does the distributor gear look......

[leanburn]

i come up with the same #'s with both lights, gear looks fine. a friend mentioned that th pickup could be buggered, i don't even know what i should be looking at.

[nivvy]

the inductive pickup should be clean........

[Moparal]

the inductive pickup should be clean........

with no nicks or chips

[nivvy]

al... maybe with the 4.11's and 26.5 inch tire regradless of how much timing he gives it maybe its just falling flat on its face on the big end and not picking up any e.t. 
                                       

[Moparal]

al... maybe with the 4.11's and 26.5 inch tire regradless of how much timing he gives it maybe its just falling flat on its face on the big end and not picking up any e.t.  5700 rpm maybe the tach is giving the false signal.. that thing should be swcreaming on the big end with the tire/gear combo,.....

 Yeah I agree, I wish a few of us were around when he is playing to check out things with him the more knowledge the better the results. He said the gears matched up, but I dont recall a centerline. Chains and gears can be off, but we just don't know. He sounds like he will stay on it till he gets it dialed in though.

[leanburn]

centerline
as i said i can talk the talk but can't walk the walk. as dumb as this sounds.... what do you mean when you say centerline?

[Moparal]

centerline
as i said i can talk the talk but can't walk the walk. as dumb as this sounds.... what do you mean when you say centerline?

To degree the cam in and put it where the manufacturer recomondations says to install it. You use a degree wheel and dial indicators and a positive stop to get the cam setting where it needs to be. Then you use bushings or key ways offset to correct the dot to dot.

[Swedefish]

Been following this thread, interesting reading.
Here`s a link on "how to deegre your cam,  http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0701_how_to_degree_a_camshaft/checking_installation.html

[moper]

i appreiciate the help guys but things are getting sidetracked. it doesn't matter if i ran a 20's 1/4 or a 10s 1/4 the fact is that the performance does not change with the timing so i'm trying to find out what the easiest way to check my cam timing or if there would be something else that may cause this.
 but to answer some questions yes i definately have 411's, they are street tires wich shouldn't matter cause i had no loss of traction and are air quality is anywhere from 2800 to 3500'.

Sidetracked?
MPH and 60' are crutial to diagnosis. Which seems to be of little concern to you. The fact that nothing changes the data outcome (13.8s regardless of working anything) and what you have posted for your findings in terms of timing, however limited, say the tune's so far out of whack that you can't possibly know what the camshaft is doing. Not to mention you DID take pressure readings, which are consistant with a cam of that size, in a package like what you posted. If the cylinder pressure was low, you would have a cam timing issue. It's not. the problem is somewhere else, and it seems like you're fixated on the cam timing. Listen to what the CAR is telling you via the data. If the data is incomplete, as in your timing curve numbers and methods of checking and setting, get that squared away, then get new data. You are at least .7 on the big end slower than you should, and the motor wont rev to where it should if it's done at 5700. You should have traction issues. My experience tells me the static is probably a little lower than advertised, maybe closer to 9.5:1, but that's not a big deal. Taking all of your numbers (or lack of valid ones) into consideration, leads me to think timing curve and tuning. That's only my opinion, and not what you want to hear from what I read. I'd at least want to fix that stuff before I spent time on the labor or money on gaskets. 

[ntstlgl1970]

  with what Moper is saying, especially this part "...You should have traction issues." and you have to be methodical in testing/tuning your car

Also, did you ever verify if the carb opens all the way?

And I know this is getting old, but when you go through the traps at 5700, are you revving through 5700 or does the car hit 5700 before the traps and stay there as you go through.

Hang in there - you'll get it figured out.