paint removal question

[hamerg]

I am just beginning the paint removal process on my 'cuda and was wondering the best approach. I am using a grinder with 40 grit sanding disks to remove the paint and yes I know that blasting will be quicker, but I have lots of time! My question is what should I do to the bare metal after stripping the paint. I'm concerned that the bare metal will be exposed for some time, depending on how long it takes to strip the car. I will remove as much as possible, such as fenders and doors. The car needs both quarters and the trunk floor replaced, so it will take some time before it is ready for paint. I am doing this in my garage so please keep this in mind.

I will post pictures as I make progress.
Thanks,
George

[cuda-cable]

I did the same to mine, but used chemical stripper, about 2 gallons did the job. Once paint was off used 3M orbital pads to clean the surface metal, then applied a coat of self etching primer to stop surface rust......worked for me.

[matt63]

Next time I would use the 3M pads too.  If you don't have a spray gun you could use a wipe on cleaner that leaves a zinc phosphate coating when it dries.  I think POR carries it  http://www.por15.com/ or try body shop supply places.
You can also buy self etching primer in spray bombs.  You might have to remove this stuff when you get to priming and painting it though.  Wear a proper mask!

[jeryst]

I think you are better off using a chemical stripper because it sure is a whole lot easier.

A couple of years ago, I had fenders that needed painted. I used some spray stuff called Tal-Strip (Advance Auto Parts), and it worked fantastic. Then, I just wiped them down with WD40 and left them set for several months. When it was time to paint, the metal was wiped down with cleaner/degreaser, and everything turned out fine.

[matt63]

I've used Talstrip.  I think it's a methyl chloride paste.  It stinks and it burns and it's very messy.  I found that you need one application per coat of paint or primer.  It's not that cheap either.  It might be good for areas that are hard to get at with a 3M pad.  As usual, a combination of methods is usually required.

[cuda-cable]

I used the Talstrip also,  works excellent, as I had said 2 gallons did my whole car....think it's about $40 per gal here in Canada. Wear gloves, is hard on the skin. If you paisnt it on by brush, then cover the area with a pce of 6 ml poly in 70+ degree temp it works real fast.

[PlumCrazy]

Why are you taking to bare metal?  Nothing is better than the original factory dip and primer.

[jeryst]

I've used Talstrip.  I think it's a methyl chloride paste.  It stinks and it burns and it's very messy.  I found that you need one application per coat of paint or primer.  It's not that cheap either.  It might be good for areas that are hard to get at with a 3M pad.  As usual, a combination of methods is usually required.

I used the spray stuff, and it was pretty easy. I just sprayed outside on a nice day, then covered it with plastic, brought it in, and let it set overnight. It took off several paint jobs, and primer as well, all in one application. The paint started to wrinkle in less than a half hour, and came completely off with a pressure washer. I think its around $8.00 per spray can. I sprayed it on very heavily, and I think one can did both fenders. Cant remember for sure, maybe I used two cans.

[Aussie Challenger]

  Don't use a sanding disc unless you have to, a chemical stripper is easier ( wear a mask and gloves) and you won't have to repair the scratches left by the sander. I would leave the old paint on until after you have done all the repair work, that is weld in the new panels etc. Depending where you live you could end up with surface rust that you will have to deal with even with the car inside your garage. Even primer absorbes moisture over a period of time.

[Travis72]

If you're going to leave it in bare metal for long, use Picklex.  You just spray it on the bare metal, let it sit for a minute and wipe it off.  I usually use a scuff pad to make sure it gets coated everywhere.  I've used it on all my bare metal parts and it leaves a zinc coating that prevent rust.  A couple months ago it was featured on a episode of Trucks on Spike TV.

http://www.picklex.com/

I buy it from the Autobody store:
http://www.autobodystore.com/home.shtml

Travis
72 Cuda

[MoparCar]

Travis,
Any problems with the PPG DP type epoxy primer sticking to Picklex? I've read about Picklex before but never payed attention because I wasn't to that point of stripping the car. Now I am so I better get myself informed.

Thanks, Wes

[Travis72]

Hey Wes,

Nope, however with the body panels I went ahead and scuffed them with a red scotchbrite pad before the epoxy, which is what Len at Autobody store recommends.  For various small brackets and parts I didn't bother.

Travis
72 Cuda

[MoparCar]

Travis,
Thanks!
Wes