Sprecks 1971 Challenger Convert do over

[sprecks]

I decided to re-do my Convertible again. This is like I should have done it when I first did it 12 years ago. The car started life as a 318 automatic with A/C. It now has a 426 Hemi with an automatic, Dana rear, R/T hood and rear spoiler. After this rebuild it will still have the same drive train. I am adding a shaker hood, all new floor pans, new fenders and new rear frame rails. I'm doing all of the work myself with help from a welding buddy.
Currently the frame rails and floor pans are installed and I'm getting ready to pull the engine this weekend. I hope to have it on the rotisserie this weekend as well. Here are some pictures of the work so far.

[sprecks]

A few more to get up to date.

[422STROKER]

Looks good sprecks, keep up the good work.

Tom

[ChallengerGary]

Loks like a great project.    Make sure you brace it before you put it on the rotis - you'll be sorry if you don't.

[sprecks]

Loks like a great project.    Make sure you brace it before you put it on the rotis - you'll be sorry if you don't.

Thanks for looking out for me with the brace suggestion. I have the braces made up and ready to go.

[hezzel]

Looks like a nice project    Good luck with it

[ksierens]

Looks like a great project, keep those pictures coming! 

[resqguy]

Thanks for looking out for me with the brace suggestion. I have the braces made up and ready to go.

Not to hijack, but does anyone have a template or specs for making the braces?

[sprecks]

Not to hijack, but does anyone have a template or specs for making the braces?

Basically with the doors and hinges off the car and striker pin/bolt removed, bolt a piece of angle iron where the upper hinge was. Next bolt another piece of angle iron or flat plate using striker pin/bolt hole. Now cut a piece of pipe or square tubing to fit between the two pieces of angle iron and weld in place. After it is welded it can be removed and reinstalled when you need it.  Hope this helps.

[ShelbyDogg]

I made mine from angle from an old bed frame. It is tacked on the front but still bolted with one bolt. On the rear, I welded it to a plate that is bolted to two of the holes where the top bolts on. My doors can still open and close to check the gaps when welding the rear quarters and aligning front fenders.

Nice job on the floors. I'll be doing the same thing after I fix my HOLE-Y cowl.

[sprecks]

Shelbydog - I like the way you did your bracing. I'm planning on leaving the doors off while it is on the roitisserie so I'll use the braces in the picture. I'll sure keep your's in mind for future projects. Thanks.
I couldn't find the old braces from the last time I did this so I made some new ones. Check out where it is bolted to the striker. Recoginize that piece? You guessed it. Solid motor mounts. They worked great. Nothing like a little improvising when you don't have the correct materials on hand. This baby will be rolled over on its side in the morning. I'll post more pictures tomorrow.

[ShelbyDogg]

That's a nice brace!  I have a spare set of those too. The hole is already big enough for the striker bolt too.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I have a pair of nice gas tank braces if you have a need. Theyre leftovers fromwhen I did my trunk last winter...

[sprecks]

I have a pair of nice gas tank braces if you have a need. Theyre leftovers fromwhen I did my trunk last winter...

Thanks for the offer. I already have new ones welded in.

[ShelbyDogg]

One observation sprecks,  You may want to cover your dash and windshield and any glass left in the quarters when doing any welding or grinding. I had a good windshield in my old R/T that is now covered in welding and grinding spatter. Melted right into the windshield plastic coating.  Another expense that I didn't need. A welding blanket was less than $20 at Harbor Freight and I now use it to cover anything in the area of sparks.   Check your dash guages for anything already stuck on the faces.

Rob