Ok Plug guru's,I need your help -UPDATE- again

[71chally416]

Look at the list of people who use them on their website and it's a no brainer. About every ProMod car you'll ever see that runs Nitrous uses their split dominators. You bolt them on and tweak the mixture screws and go. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I would bump the timing up into the 16* range or better yet set it at 36* above 2500 RPM , disconnect the vacumm advance & leave it off
 never used a Prosytems carb so I can`t say good or bad about them but 1 customer is running another brand of carb & it is a race bred carb & it is being difficult to tune down for street use , Generally I have used the Holley HP or Proform series carbs with great results . Generally I start with approx 2X the CI for Carb size , , an 850 Proform would probably be my choice , the Hemi may be able to use more but I doubt you open her up to WOT 6000RPM + much so it would be enough , the Proform uses all of the Holley tuning parts

[71chally416]

I've also heard horror stories about "custom calibrated carbs".  The others just don't have the equipment, the rep or the customer list that ProSystems has. Bob and Billy Glidden, Vince Gaines, Larry Morgan, Ricky Smith, Dale Earnhardt, Most every engine challenge and Pinks all out winner, even boats, drift cars and stockers and super stockers. They know their ****. I've never seen anyone use one of their carbs that wasn't 100% happy with it. If you give them accurate information about your combo they will send you a carb that works right the first time. You just can't buy a carb off the shelf that will be right for everything it fits on, especially a Hemi.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I would bump the timing up into the 16* range or better yet set it at 36* above 2500 RPM , disconnect the vacumm advance & leave it off
 never used a Prosytems carb so I can`t say good or bad about them but 1 customer is running another brand of carb & it is a race bred carb & it is being difficult to tune down for street use , Generally I have used the Holley HP or Proform series carbs with great results . Generally I start with approx 2X the CI for Carb size , , an 850 Proform would probably be my choice , the Hemi may be able to use more but I doubt you open her up to WOT 6000RPM + much so it would be enough , the Proform uses all of the Holley tuning parts

Once again THANKS for the imput. I'll try a timing bump today.

Reason for leaving the advance disconnected? 

If the Proform uses Holley parts, why use the Proform? 

[Chryco Psycho]

the Proform is made better & costs less
 typically the way I get the best milage & power from any engine is to leave the vacuum advance disconnected , bump the timing at idle into the 16-18* range & limit the max advance to 36-38* range , the timing at idle is less critical than the timing at RPM as the engine spends most of its time at RPM
 I will have to try a Prosystems carb on a build in the Future , Thanks for the input 71-416

[71chally416]

A wise old man once told me "Only spend your money once" 

[Chryco Psycho]

Wise man , I agree , buy the best part once only , it is far cheaper in the long run 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

the Proform is made better & costs less
 typically the way I get the best milage & power from any engine is to leave the vacuum advance disconnected , bump the timing at idle into the 16-18* range & limit the max advance to 36-38* range , the timing at idle is less critical than the timing at RPM as the engine spends most of its time at RPM
 I will have to try a Prosystems carb on a build in the Future , Thanks for the input 71-416

Chryco, I bumped the idle timing to 16*BTC, Left mix screws at about 1 1/2 out, did back the idle down a little, disconnected the vac advance....  BTW my hot idle is around 750-800 if that makes a diff? 

   Was ok on "normal acceleration", very stumbly on medium and when I left off she let me know she DID NOT LIKE IT!! I didn't dare try WOT!!

came back reconnected the vac advance... I'll never try that again, hard detonation. Either that or I broke something.

Ran way better at 10*   Or I've got something else way out of wack, other than mixure I really think the carb is behaving the way it should, other than it's size.(cfm). but???    BTW I did spray around the carb base and the intake.. NO changes. This situation has got to have something I'm just missing/unaware of but....

This is really making me insane     

Can 100 cfm make that kind of diff or do I have another issue..   

Look at the list of people who use them on their website and it's a no brainer. About every ProMod car you'll ever see that runs Nitrous uses their split dominators. You bolt them on and tweak the mixture screws and go. 

Believe it or not Iwent on their website last nite They have is form you fill out.. motor size, use, comp, ect. They already responded !! I was pretty impressed that they would get back to me on a Sunday... WOW! $690 plus $12 ship...  A little more is one thing over $200 more over a Proform or Holley..

[71chally416]

When you ran that much advance at idle you no doubt had to back the idle adjustment way down. Sounds like the transfer slots in the carb were wrong in relation to the throttle blades because the throttle was closed too far at idle. That will make it stumble as the carb transitions from one circuit to the other.

You have to pay for quality. Most people will just buy 2 or 3 different new carbs trying to find something they like and don't even realise what they end up paying. A new Edelbrock EPS manual choke carb is $322 at Jegs and a 850 DP Holley is $583. That's $905. $690 for a professionally calibrated and flowed carb is a bargain. 

So you get an idea what basic carb rebuilders get... I couldn't find any list of racing winners on their site> http://www.sparkyscarbs.com/charges.htm   

[Chryco Psycho]

as stated it would be much easier if I was there to tune it
 whatr did she not like with the advance up ? , probably needed more adjustment to compensate for the increased timing which it seems she did like as the idle speed increased
 I would try to tune the problem out first before spending more $$ on a different carb
 start with the basics , check float levels , do you know what the engine vacuum is at idle in gear ?

[71chally416]

Maybe you should spring for a $7 stick-on timing tape so you're not shooting in the dark with your total ignition timing. I've been setting mine the total way for 25 years. I really don't care what mine is at idle and neither should you. If you have 25* of centrifigal advance and you set the initial timing at 16* at idle you'll have 41* of total timing. That might work fine with a SBC but it will rattle your Hemi and kill the rings. Since there's no way of knowing what the centifugal is without pulling your  distributor and testing it on a distributor machine the only way to do it is with a degreed crank dampner and an accurate timing light. And if you have a JC Whitney timing light that's 20 years old throw it out and get a good one.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/degtimtap.html

[Chryco Psycho]

or just bring the rpm up to 2500+ & advance the timing until the rp,m quits rising & the you hear ti start to pop through the exhaust & then back it off until the rpm just starts to drop & tighten it down there

[71chally416]

They also sell timing lights with a built-in advance adjustment. Just dial in 36* on the light, rev the motor to max advance and line the zero mark on the timing tab up with the mark on the dampner. That's as simple as it gets.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921023000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Automotive+Testing+Equipment

[BIGSHCLUNK]

First off again I APPRICIATE YOUR HELP! I'm gonna play again tonite after din-din. 

My ol' timing lite is a Sears inductive p u.  Goes with the ol' tach in the pics. No adavance adjustment on it tho....

[71chally416]

A little cheap trick I picked up is to get a strip of narrow tape that contrasts with your dampner color (like that off white/yellow stuff they use to mask for painting), and cut it at exactly 2 3/8". Crawl under the car in the front and stick it on the dampner with one end lined up with the timing mark. Of course you have to put it facing towards the rotation of the motor so it's advanced and not retarded from the zero mark. Just crank the motor a bit to get the direction and to get the mark facing down before you crawl under. I think it's easier underneath than trying to do it from the top. Then just rev the motor to 2,500/3K with the timing light and adjust the end of the tape to line up with your zero mark on the timing tab and you have 36* total advance. It shouldn't go PAST that point. It'll be obvious if you put the tape the wrong way cause it won't even run 36* retarded. Just use some kind of firm tape and not electrical or duct tape because it will stretch out. Total cost, about .003 of one penny (or .006 of a penny for another pc of tape if you screw up and put it facing the wrong direction)