Double-Timing...

[ViperMan]

I've seen in some parts catalogs use of "double timing chains" for high-power applications.  I would assume that this basically means two gears stacked on top of each other, either using two chains or a double-thick chain.

I noticed however when I was dissassembling my 440 a few weeks back that I had exactly that - the timing gears on both the crank and the cam had two sets of teeth going around, and were wrapped by a beefy, double-thick chain.

Did some 440's have a single-chain set-up, or was this double-chain the norm?  Will I need a THICKER setup for my 505 Stroker project?  I still plan on buying all new timing components instead of reusing the originals, but I just wonder if I need more than this.

Jeff

[nivvy]

It is two chains.... I run gear drives. noisy ones...... 

[Chryco Psycho]

most 440 use a single chain , double is the upgrade , what you have is what you need for the 505

[ViperMan]

But I still only have one chain - just two teeth per link.  Should I switch to two, single width chains, or keep the "double-wide?"

I saw Mancini Racing had the double chain, but it looks identical to what I have - I really wonder if I should just clean mine up and keep it.

Jeff

[Chryco Psycho]

the double row chain is what you have , 1 set of gears with 1 chain & 2 rows of teeth
 if yours is tight keep it , there is also single bolt & 3 bolt cam design , 3 bolt is better so you may need a new chain anyway depending on the cam used

[nivvy]

the double row chain is what you have , 1 set of gears with 1 chain & 2 rows of teeth
 if yours is tight keep it , there is also single bolt & 3 bolt cam design , 3 bolt is better so you may need a new chain anyway depending on the cam used

Yes get 3 bolt gear......   

[ViperMan]

Yes - mine is one bolt.

3 bolt it is!

Thanks!

Jeff

[nivvy]

Jeff Save the money for quality parts. it will be worth it..... 
 

[ViperMan]

Oh I agree - just gotta understand better just what I need to buy.

Like the research I've been doing on a Carbon Composite Driveshaft.  I can get high strength steel DS for 400, or a Carbon shaft custom made for 750 or so.  Why not save for an extra month or so and get the good stuff - right?

Jeff

[nivvy]

Oh I agree - just gotta understand better just what I need to buy.

Like the research I've been doing on a Carbon Composite Driveshaft.  I can get high strength steel DS for 400, or a Carbon shaft custom made for 750 or so.  Why not save for an extra month or so and get the good stuff - right?

Jeff

Yea but dont waste money on stuff you dont need like a carbon composite driveshaft.....  350 extra not wasted can go to good stuf... hmmm let me think. maybe a roller cam for thought   

 

[ViperMan]

Is there any such thing as a hydraulic roller cam?  That's really what I want - minimize pushrod lash but also reduce roller friction...

I know that picking out my cam is going to be the HARDEST thing because I just can't figure out what all the numbers mean and I can't find a good source of information regarding "Camshafts for Dummies."  I really just need someone to sit and TEACH me it so that I can make a good decision.

Jeff

[nivvy]

Is there any such thing as a hydraulic roller cam?  That's really what I want - minimize pushrod lash but also reduce roller friction...

I know that picking out my cam is going to be the HARDEST thing because I just can't figure out what all the numbers mean and I can't find a good source of information regarding "Camshafts for Dummies."  I really just need someone to sit and TEACH me it so that I can make a good decision.

Jeff

since you are building a 500+ incher i would go solid roller  can keep valve timing in better..... its not hard to adjust valves evry once in a while...

Solid Roller is the ULTIMATE .... more lift with less duration for streetability.... add 1.6/1.7 rockers and get more lift with the same duration... the higher duration the more radicle idle.... but rough on the street more..,,  106 centerline vs 110 centerline   .. the 106 will make more power but the 110 will pull more power throughout the powerband..... being you are a street guy more cP will probably tell you a 108* would be good also.... 

112*/114* cams are blower friendly ....



SOLID ROLLER....... FINAL ANSWER     

[71chally416]

   Solid roller is the only way to go.

Your cam depends on your heads and compression and other factors. Don't pick the cam and then build the motor. Build the motor and then select the cam to match the motor. Not a big fan of Comp cams. I've seen some of their listed rollers destroy valvetrains on the dyno & their QC sucks. They farm out work and they don't spark out the grinding wheels when they grind lobes. I've mic'd brand new cams of thiers and I'm unimpressed with their lobe to lobe consistency. Best to select the lobes you want from the Crane Cam site and have them make exactly what you need on the CL you want in-house.
 

[matt63]

Hydraulic roller is a nice set-up for the street.  I would talk to Hughes Engines.  They specialize in Mopar.

[ViperMan]

Okay, for starters, what does a "1.6/1.7 roller" MEAN?  What is that a measurement of?

I guess I really need to decide if I want the power of a solid or the streetability/lower maintenance of a hydraulic.  I understand what y'all are saying, but I'm still thinking "hydraulic..."

I've got some time to think about it, though.

Thanks, Stroker.

Jeff