How do they sleep at night?!?!?!

[ViperMan]

Comp Cams Hydraulic-Roller Cam Shaft, #23-712-9 - $306.99 (on Jegs.com)
Hydraulic Lifters for above cam shaft #8921-16 - $587.99 (jegs)
Beehive Springs recommended for above shaft and lifters #26120-16 - $204.99
Aluminum Roller Rockers, 1.5 ratio #1071-KIT - $959.99 (non-alum. $505.99)
Adjustable 3-bolt Timing Set #3125KT - $204.99
Steel Retainers - $56
Valve Locks - $42 (!!)
Valve Guides - $23
Lash Caps (what the heck are those?) - $37
Push Rods - 7/16" "Semi Finished" (apparently I have to have them custom cut) $162.99

FIRST of all, how the hell is the Camshaft one of the CHEAPEST pieces of all this, second of all, $2,131 for all the timing parts?!?!?!?!

 

*starting to reconsider a CRATE engine...*

  = $$$$

Jeff

[Moparal]

Sucks doesnt it?  Titainium retainers instead of steel.  I like the solid rollers mysell and the price is less. But all in all, big boys toys cost big bucks. These items are really worthless to you. You dont really need this stuff. But if you feel the need to walk the walk and talk the talk, then it is a must. But it really isnt going to matter in the long run. Just buy yourself a hydraulic cam n lifters and go from there. My timing chain cost me 89 bucks, cam n lifters 190 springs 120 valves 115. And my car is faster than yours. See what I mean.  Spend the money wisely and enjoy your car

[NoMope Greg]

Well, some of those things will already be on the engine, so you don't have to order them.  For example, unless you buy bare heads, the retainers, locks and guides will be on the heads when you buy them. Roller lifters are expensive because there are more machined parts in them than standard lifters - primarily the roller and the "mount" for it.  Same thing with the rockers.  Further, you can usually buy the cam and lifters as a package, which will cut down on the price.  Sometimes, you can also get the cam, lifters and timing gear as a set.  Be careful - a lot of Comp cams are one-bolt cams, so you'll want to double check that.  

Now you know why racing engines are so expensive.  What do you want to build yours for - cruise or race.  If cruise, save the money and forget the roller stuff.  If race - get used to this, cause everything for a race engine is expensive.  Not to mention the upgrades to the trans, rear end, suspension, body...

[nivvy]

Titanium retainers and 10* locks for sure....   

[nivvy]

Comp Cams Hydraulic-Roller Cam Shaft, #23-712-9 - $306.99 (on Jegs.com)
Hydraulic Lifters for above cam shaft #8921-16 - $587.99 (jegs)
Aluminum Roller Rockers, 1.5 ratio #1071-KIT - $959.99 (non-alum. $505.99)
Adjustable 3-bolt Timing Set #3125KT - $204.99
Push Rods - 7/16" "Semi Finished" (apparently I have to have them custom cut) $162.99



Jeff

When you buy your heads alot of that will already be with the heads.. just upgrade to Ti retaners and 10* locks.... dont overlook into that as most of its on the assembled head..... most aftermarket head mfg's springs are good to .600 lift.... spring cups also.. shims....

Also dont buy pushrods until you check them out by usng my method in StRoKers how to Roller Rocker install. call mancini Racing with the measurements and they will arrive done!!!!

[ViperMan]

I have no idea what 10* locks means. 

Yeah I was pricing out assembled RPM heads.  I'm just wondering if the springs make a big difference - i.e. the lighter springs from Comp cams.

The cam I listed is a 3 bolt.

I did some more poking around after the first post, and found cheaper prices on a lot of the exact same stuff - just different wholesalers.  Jeg's is nice, but if you do your research you can find stuff cheaper.  Plus I recall a lot of places were doing 10% off at Carlisle - I just wonder if their prices were the same as internet.

Figure you save up a few grand then save 200, 300 bucks at Carlisle by buying on the spot and not paying shipping.

I'm building it for "aggressive cruise" - mild/occasional strip performance but basically a "nasty" driver.  I also got my estimate from Keisler for a 4-speed auto with slap-stick conversion - $5,200.

Jeff

[NoMope Greg]

Well, if you're building it for "aggressive cruise", that sounds like 500 hp, which will be quite nasty on the street.  With aluminum heads, you can get that easy with a regular hydraulic cam, without all the expense of a roller.  I'm building mine with iron heads and stock valve gear and expect somewhere in the neighborhood of 450+ hp with a Lunati Voodoo 268* cam.

[Moparal]

VP, wait till you start experimenting with roller cams and you buy 7 or 8 of them like I did just for a couple more hp.  I got one I will be sending to Stroker here sooner or later. I know it gave my engine 835 hp before I put a different one in to make it go even better.  The need for speed is really addicting

[moparmaniac59]

Got some good advice here Jeff. You saw my car at Carlisle. It's a mildly built 440. Basically stock 906 heads (2.08 intake, 1.74 exh), Hooker headers, a fairly agressive cam, Holley Street HP 750 cfm carb, 9.5:1 compression. It's dyno output was 410 horsepower at the crank & it's plenty fast and fun to drive & didn't cost much to put together. Now I can't smoke a Z06 Corvette, but who cares. It's faster than most cars on the road. It doesn't take a ton of money to make a fun/fast street cruiser. With some aluminum heads & little more mods and I'll be at the 500 HP range. As Al put it, it's all about what you want. I've seen guys with a 10K motor that would barely turn a high 12 in the 1/4 mile and then somebody that was smart and knew engines & what to buy/not buy put together a budget motor for 1/2 that price that would run 11's w/o all the "brand name" engine components. I don't know much about building engines, but you've got the the right answers available right here. keep looking and asking before you go spend money on something you don't need. You'll have it right!! Then I want to see ya give Tom a run for his money!!


                                                          Matt B.

[nivvy]

no way would i run a hydraulic cam on the street with high duration.......   

[The Cuda Guy]

Jeff,

OK let me bottom line you up front (BLUF as we call it in the ARMY) its your money bro do what you want. 

Im thinking your way off on this here?  Unless your just commenting...  I hope. 

Having said that please dont spend that type of money of valvetrain.  That is crazy for what Im thinking your wanting to do with your car....?  Then again Im not you but if your still wanting the same things we have discussed then I think this is the wrong path....      Good luck either way.

Don

[ViperMan]

Help me out here - the lifters say "Quantity 16."  But aren't roller lifters in double-sets?  So 16 lifters is all I need, right?  I don't need 2 sets...  Right?  Please tell me I'm right.

If Comp Cams lists a cam built for hydraulic rollers, why is it such a no-no?  I wouldn't think they'd offer a part for sale if it was so grosely ill-advised.

I mean, okay maybe there's a performance loss with hydraulic, but besides that, what's the big deal?

Jeff

[Moparal]

16 valve, 16 lifters. High lift cams stress hydraulic lifters on the internals.

[jeryst]

Try PAW. Their prices are pretty reasonable.

[ViperMan]

16 valve, 16 lifters. High lift cams stress hydraulic lifters on the internals.

*laughs to self...*

For some stupid reason I started thinking there were 8 cylinders on each side...  Lol...  V16...

I think I need to give engine research a break for the night. 

Thanks though - now I understand the hydraulic verses solid.

Jeff