How do they sleep at night?!?!?!

[IMNCARN82]

Don't even start...    I blew my budget in 10 seconds. A 5.7 box engine for 3K was at the tip of my card.I kept the 340.Probably didn't save a dime. Good advice here.  I like the old engines.

[73EStroker]

Jeff - 10* means 10 degree retainer locks. For some unknown reason a lot of high performance shops will sell you the inferior 7 degree locks if you don't specifically ask for the 10's. The advantage of the 10 s much better at staying put at higher RPMs. 10's also have the large singl groove as compared to the multiple grooves on the 7.

[go-fish]

*laughs to self...*

For some stupid reason I started thinking there were 8 cylinders on each side...  Lol...  V16...

I think I need to give engine research a break for the night. 

Thanks though - now I understand the hydraulic verses solid.

Jeff

You might want to look into enrolling into an engine class at a Vocational Tech school at nights or something. You know, just to get a basic idea of terminologies, or start reading "How To Build Engines" books.

[Chryco Psycho]

this is exactly wh y most of the engines I build stull use Flat tappet solid cams , rollers get stupid expensive in hurry + if I was spending that much it would be a solid roller not a hyd
 the Lash cap is a hard steel cap over the valve tip , it increases surface area & prevents damage to the tip of the valve , these are a very good idea
7* vs 10* is the angle of the cone shape the locks make inside the retatiner , , 10* is a bigger cone & is mauch harder to pull through the retainer , so they are a must have also

[Ornamental]

this is exactly wh y most of the engines I build stull use Flat tappet solid cams , rollers get stupid expensive in hurry + if I was spending that much it would be a solid roller not a hyd
 the Lash cap is a hard steel cap over the valve tip , it increases surface area & prevents damage to the tip of the valve , these are a very good idea
7* vs 10* is the angle of the cone shape the locks make inside the retatiner , , 10* is a bigger cone & is mauch harder to pull through the retainer , so they are a must have also

Noted!

[ViperMan]

Duely Noted as well.

Lemme ask this though - the Comp Cams site (and note there's no specific reason I'm looking at Comp Cams except for that I couldn't make heads-or-tails out of the Lunati Cams website) gave parts listings for the rockers and all related equipment.  Is this somewhat akin to Pace saying "Only use our Picante Sauce on our Tortilla Shells!"?

What is the risk of using a roller rocker with the same ratios and specs from 440Source and saving $200 bucks?

I ask because my preliminary engine "cost sheet" hit about $11,000 without carburetor - this included all pumps and housings, all machine work (estimated), ignition (except plugs and wires) and headersm, bearings - etc.  I took prices from Jegs and Mancini Racing, primarily.  But when I started shopping 440 source, I shaved over $1,000 off the price, without even getting into timing components, etc.  My original cost sheet includes 440Source's stroker kit.  I can just get the fancy cam and lifters from comp (or lunati) and keep everything else within reason.

Jeff

[Chryco Psycho]

no issue with saving $$ where you can as long as the quality of the parts is equal , I am not convinced about 440 Source rockers though

[73Chally]

Sorry I haven't followed along the whole path of your build, but what are your plans for this motor?  $11,000 just for parts is putting you well into a strong street/strip motor, probably somewhere in the 500+ horsepower range.  I just had a 440 six pack built, machined, balanced, and assembled, built to stock specs with all new parts (including intake and carbs), for about $6,000.  If your major concern is price, you really need to reconsider the path you want to take.

[ViperMan]

Sorry I haven't followed along the whole path of your build, but what are your plans for this motor?  $11,000 just for parts is putting you well into a strong street/strip motor, probably somewhere in the 500+ horsepower range.

That's exactly what I'm looking to build - and comparing it to crate motors, I see some in the 505 hp range at $19,000.  So $11,00 isn't really bad.

I'm not CONCERNED about the price - it's feasible for me.  It'll just take a little longer to "procure" my parts than I had originally thought.  I just can't see how a bunch of aluminum rockers cost $1,000!!  That was what started this whole thread!

Jeff

[73Chally]

Thanks for the info.  In that case, you're right, that's not a bad price.  Your best bet is definitely to shop around, and you'll probably be better off not buying everything from the same source.  This sounds like it's going to be a nice motor.  Another thing to keep in mind is that, even if you do consider the crate motor route, you would still need to figure in time and money to disassemble part of the motor just to make sure everything is kosher, based on the past track record of crate motors.

[Chryco Psycho]

most of the stroker engines I build now are in the 8-10K range depending on the parts choices made

[ViperMan]

Based on my research (which I think you guys can confirm I've done a LOT of research already) my engine is going to cost 12-13K after all machine work, dynoing, oiling and assembly (which I'll be doing most of the assembly myself) and should generate 550hp or more.  Not much more - I don't expect 600.

It'll be mounted to a Keisler 4-speed auto with overdrive with a 3000 (or so) stall convertor (that's actually the next piece I need to research.)  It'll send power rearward with a carbon-composite OR aluminum driveshaft to a 8 3/4 rear with posi-traction and upgraded axles.  I currently figure a 3.9 ratio rearend, but that too needs to be researched.  I currently plan on 18" (I wanted 17" but my style isn't available in that size) wheels with BG Goodrich G-Force T/A KDW2 285 (mm) series tires.  I might need to pick another style with 17" wheels because I may need too low a profile tire on 18's which won't flex enough to keep traction.

Any guesses as to what the 1/4 mile time would be?    Lol just kiddin'.

Jeff

[nivvy]

my exact running total to date is :      ENGINE    $14,566.03 and will go up and that is for the absolute best parts money can buy...... now add some indy 440-1's with related costs and it will shoot up 

[422STROKER]

http://musclemotorsracing.com/m/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=65&category_id=24&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=31

This seems reasonable for the $$.  I believe they have a good rep as well.

Tom

500HP shouldn't cost you that much.

[nivvy]

thats wriiten up real shady without full details on parts. ill never buy a crate motor...... just my opinion....