lower quater panel to rocker lead seam

[74chall]

getting pretty close to final body work on the cuda. I was wondering what ya'll do when you put on a quater skin and it leaves you at the seam in front of the rear wheel that meets the rocker. from the factory this seam is leaded. I was going to grind the lead out, tack the quater to the rocker panel and then use a fiberglass filler, then your lightweight body filler . Any problems with doing it this way?  thanks! Nick

[Topcat]

Some will say weld it up and then body filler. Too much heat fatigues metal.
Not me. The factory called for lead, not bondo.

The assembly lines knew they could've saved time with filler but they must've had some good reasons why they didn't.
Fiberglass, the factory never did that I would think over time it would crack away.

My opinion...no substitute for lead. It took me a few times to figure it out. If you fail the first time, blow it all out with heat and start over. You'll get it eventually. Determination,learn, and practice and you'll get it.

[e-tek]

If you WANT to learn to lead - go ahead - have a ball! It's fun & not hard. JUST DON'T SAND IT - or you'll breath in the dust AND DIE!

BUT: you certainly don't need lead there - or anywhere else. Not a single quality body or resto shop uses lead anymore unless either asked to or if someone (like TopCat) really likes to. Not GoodMark's certified shops, not DealerShip shops, not any you see in magazines, not any - period. Also, you HAVE to weld those seams, so I don't know what TopCat means by heat being a problem. Once you get the lead out (torch and wire brush - don't grind or sand!), you would drill out all the spot welds and then drill holes in new quarter to weld 'em up through those. Once done you don't even need fibreglass-type bondo (KittyHair). Rage - or any - lightwieght filler will be fine. It will never crack, never pop out and never go bad - unless you didn't weld it up properly underneath.

So again, if you want to learn to lead and use it - great, have at it. BUT, don't let anyone tell you it's the "only" way or the "right" way. It's just not. If you don't believe me, go poll all the top shops in your city.

[stinger]

I have to ask,how wide is the gap between the rocker skin and the quater skin?the reason I asked is I'm currently doing the same thing and someone welded a patch in that area and I can't tell where the seem is supposed to be.I'm going to tack weld the seem down there and then push bonder in there.I also like all metal filler for that lead look but it's just silver bondo,it finishes real nice IMO.BTW filler has come a long,long way since then.I like the bonder cause it's corrosion resistant.

[Topcat]

Heres a pic after lead was put on. Still needing final leveling.

[stinger]

looks like the seem is about1/4"to 1/2" wide?

[Topcat]

maybe closer to an inch at below. Hard to recall now. 

The edges taper right before they meet.
So it's a fair amount of body filler to put in. That I do recall.

[74chall]

Well i welded the seam up pretty good and then used Norton SpeedGrip 40 Minute Cure Urethane Adhesive.
My local body shop reccomended it ,as it can be sanded and is good for high moisture areas.

I did it last night , and its dry now, but there seems to be many little bumps on the finish. has anyoen else had this problem with the product?

[stinger]

Well i welded the seam up pretty good and then used Norton SpeedGrip 40 Minute Cure Urethane Adhesive.
My local body shop reccomended it ,as it can be sanded and is good for high moisture areas.

I did it last night , and its dry now, but there seems to be many little bumps on the finish. has anyoen else had this problem with the product?

so is this a panel bonder? I'll probably do the same.

[e-tek]

I'm not sure why you would weld AND use a panel adhesive - did your BS guy say why? Having worked in several high end shops, I have never seen a quarter panel urethane-bonded at the rocker or the sail panel (OK - I've never seen a qtr urethane-bonded anywhere for that matter!!).

[stinger]

cause bonder makes a great filler.you could tack weld in place and smoosh some bonder in the seem.

[74chall]

Norton SpeedGrip® Structural Adhesive is a versatile and fast two part urethane system for bonding and repairing steel, aluminum, flexible, semi-rigid and rigid plastic and fiberglass. All products perform the same on all materials. Just select the working time that best fits your needs. Not compatible with polyester body fillers. Made in USA

[e-tek]

Norton SpeedGrip® Structural Adhesive is a versatile and fast two part urethane system for bonding and repairing steel, aluminum, flexible, semi-rigid and rigid plastic and fiberglass. All products perform the same on all materials. Just select the working time that best fits your needs. Not compatible with polyester body fillers. Made in USA

Thanks 74Chall - the last sentence: "Not compatible with polyester body fillers." would keep me from using it in this instance. I would just weld it it solid then put filler in it - like they do everywhere.