A833 parts list

[sleepychallenger]

OOOPS  he needs the reverse rod and a couple of shift bars

shift bars sooooo many parts. 

[sleepychallenger]

is this the bell housing that i want

 BH513R-S BIG BLOCK 10.5" BELLHOUSING 1962-1974 A/B/E-BODY, 4.354" RETAINER, NEW Details
 
NEW reproduction 10.5" big block 356 T-6 heat treated aluminum bellhousing to fit 1962-1974 383/440/426 HEMI A, B & E-Body applications, 4.354" bearing retainer opening, use with 130 tooth flywheel. Bellhousing includes new clutch fork pivot bracket.


Alan,
what is the difference between the rods and shift bars?

what about a clutch fork boot, or did these not use those?

[Moparal]

You need the levers that bolt to the trans, and the shifter also a reverse rod   I have a factory boot I might give to you if you behave and come back soon

[sleepychallenger]

  ill do my best on coming back, but i cant promise about behaving 

anyone got pics of these parts so that i can see?

and what about that bell housing

i probably need that aluminum shifter mounting pad too huh. hmmm.. seems like im getting further and further away from my goal, not so muc closer. 

[sleepychallenger]

lets try this, maybe someone can point out some of the stuff i still need.  starting to feel like a real dummy here 

[Topcat]

Clutch switch start wire harness
correct speedo gear to match your ratio
hardware
new rear tailshaft seal

[Chryco Psycho]

pushrod from pedal to Z bar ,
adjustablke rod from Z bar to clutch fork
pilot bushing
 pivot balls & frame bracket
 clips to hold linkage together
 shift boot & ring
slip yolk
 clutch pressure plate & disc

[sleepychallenger]

i have the zbar pushrod and the adjustable one, and the pivit balls and frame bracket. dont need the slip yolk. have the clutch and pressure plate. not sure on what clips i have. i ordered the adjustable pushrod thingy from brewers, i will post part numbers so if you have time, check my work and ensure i am getting the right stuff.

[sleepychallenger]

AK450 CLUTCH ADJUSTER KIT 70-1 E/71-2 B BIG BLOCK is the kit that i got from brewers

[sleepychallenger]

here is an updated list of have and need

HAVE

transmission hump
Transmission
Clutch kit
clutch bolts
Pedals
CLUTCH PEDAL STUD BRACKET
pedal -> zbar rod
z-bar
11" flywheel
clutch fork
ball stud bracket and ball studs
two shifter rods
clutch adjuster kit from brewers
shifter
shift handle and grips
 


NEED

11" bellhousing i have heard that i should get the 10.5" bell housing, but i got the 11" flywheel, 10.95 scalloped clutch
shift grips lense
shifter mount plate
flywheel bolts
pilot bearing
shifter boot and trim ring
reverse bar
shift rods
Clutch switch start wire harness
correct speedo gear
hardware
new rear tailshaft seal
shifter mounting pad

Thanks to everyone that has given me their inputs.

[Chryco Psycho]

there are 2 belhousings , alum for the 10.5/10.95 scallopped 130 tooth flywheel   & iron for the 11" 143 tooth flywheel so I fugure you already have a matched set
 you do not need shift rods from what I see in the pix
 do you need a shifter mount pad or is the shifter attached to the tranny now ?
 do you have the special clutch bolts , they are like header bolts but with a shoulder under the head

[sleepychallenger]

Sorry, those pics arent of my set up. I just posted those so i could see what people were talking about when they said i need something, that way if i see it on ebay, i can identify that is the part i need. I ordered the flywheel through Amanda, it is an 11 inch, not sure on the amount of teeth. I could be wrong, but i think that Alan gave me a set of clutch bolts.

[Chryco Psycho]

both are 11" flywheels , the 143 is a much larger diameter though , if you have an alum bell & 130 tooth flywheel you have a match

[sleepychallenger]

Amanda, can you let me know which one it is that i got from you? Thanks

does the 130 tooth hold the 10.5 and 10.95 clutch or is it two different 130 tooth flywheels?

[sleepychallenger]

ok all, i am doing some research, and now i am wondering, the rubber in my shifter makes it so that the shifter handle will not slip in and lock. is it worth it to have it rebuilt, or should i just drill the holes and bolt it in?