Carb help!

[Daves74chally]

Hey guys I really need your help.  I never replaced a carb before and I seem to have some done right.  My big question is about the automatic kickdown linkage. here are some pics to show you where im at. I just dont know the right way it should be adjusted.



Any advice on how to setup the linkage the right way would be great.  But now I have to find out why the car has no power anymore. The carb is a 600 cfm holley. I need all the help I can get! Thanks guys.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

For starters, there needs to be a return spring on the kick-down linkage... right where your thumb is in the second picture.


   Mike

[nivvy]

Throw that old junk away and get the LOKAR setup... super nice piece....... and clears up all the old fashioned junk/....... 

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=LOK%2DKD%2D2727HT&N=700+115&autoview=sku

the have a bracket that bolts to the back carb nut also fr throttle cale and kickdown.....

[Daves74chally]

I got that.  Stroker I dont have the time or money to go out and buy a new setup. I was lucky to get this far with alot of help from IMNCARN82 for sending me that nice RPM manifold. 

[nivvy]

Yea the first time Ihad to deal with tat kickdown stuff it gae me a headache an I got rid of it all.... good luck on figuring it out...... 

[IMNCARN82]

        Looks good!!   Have you fired her up yet?      Don't forget to check that hood/air cleaner room. That manifold is higher,Might need a low-profile filter.   

Lot's of rubber fuel line in there... Keep a fire-extinguisher in the car.

[Daves74chally]

I have fired her up. Idles fine. I have room for my air cleaner. :cooldancing:But its just a matter of making sure that linkage is right. I took it for a test drive and it shifts late and drops down a gear by slightly pushing in the gas.  It looks great in there right now. Im waiting for my new valve covers that my parents got me for my bday.  but that mean nothing till i get this right.

[71chally416]

The idea is to have that kick down arm almost all the way back when the throttle is wide open. Make sure it doesn't inhibit the throttle opening all the way.

Once you put a tall intake on and/or change the relative throttle cable location on the carb the geometry usually goes to hell.  If you run it without the KD arm you will quickly burn the tranny up because it has no throttle pressure. I avoid all that crap and extend the life of the internals with a manual valve body. The harder it shifts the less the clutch pacs wear.

[IMNCARN82]

Wish I knew more... I got a 5 speed. No kick down.    Trial and error I guess.   Keep playing with it,You'll get it right.  What kind of valve covers?  

[Daves74chally]

Im getting the wrinkle black mopar performance covers.  I love the look of them.  But I guess im going to find something out here because the kd arm only goes so far back. the throtle on the carb goes farther back than the kd arm.  Has anyone ran into this before?  any easy fixes?  or should I shell our the extra buck for the part that Stroker was talking about. thats only if i really have to.

[IMNCARN82]

Not sure...   I'd suspect it would simplify things. But I don't know. I've seen them on a few cars.  I like the Mopar covers too. But I see them too much for my car. Gotta' be different I guess.   Keep tinkering with it...I've seen custom rods before. Good luck man!!    I like Jegs better than Summit   JMO.

[Daves74chally]

I have an idea.  this is a pic of how far back the kd rod and the throtle on the carb goes.

now maby if I cut into this and made the hole big enough so that I can make the throtle linkage go far back enough.

 

[71chally416]

Some have either an adjustment bolt by the tranny you can loosen and re-adjust or a threaded adjuster by the carb.  In a pinch you can cut & reweld the top lever arm to the right length.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

From what I hear and see, you have the opposite problem I had.

It appears you need to shorten, or eat away at the hole on the right side of where the linkage connects to the carb.  It seems that top horizontal linkage is too long, where mine was too short.


  Mike

[ntstlgl1970]

IMO - A temporary solution could be to remove the preload spring at the trans end (between the bolt block pin thingy and the rod from the bellcrank pivot), looks like that would give you another 1/4 inch of travel adjustment. And/or drill and slot the arm at the carb. Just for reference, here is a pic of my hokey setup I ran for a while. The linkage from the carb to the bellcrank is nothing special, I just used some small block stuff I had lying around and a few random parts. Might be worth a trip to the local wrecking yard to check some stock setups and see if something else would work. I did replace it eventually with the cable setup mentioned.

Oh one other thing, is it me or is the kickdown linkage arm on the trans look like it is installed upside down? (not sure how you could do that)