Belgium, it sounds as if you are cursed! Is this no-spark condition only at the spark plug, or is it a lack of spark at the coil? Check your grounds before you start condemning parts, and use basic diagnostic procedures to eliminate the dummy problems we often inflict upon ourselves when a project is apart for more than a few days. I speak from experience, so I am serious here. Check all the basics carefully, and make sure that they are correct: When the #1 cylinder is at TDC compression, is the distributor drive slot parallel to the camshaft? Confirm that you also have the distributor rotor pointed at the proper terminal on the cap, and then confirm all connections to the ECU. Check for timed spark at the coil, and then at the spark plug, if you have spark at the coil wire. A spark plug-style ignition tester is handy for this. Check the intensity of the spark, while you are testing for its existence. Sometimes, the ignition is weak, and will spark with no load upon it, but fail when it has to really work, during a combustion event. If the spark is weak, then you check for proper grounding again, and check the coil for proper resistance. Remove the wires from the coil on all 3 terminals, and check for resistance between the primary terminals (should be 1.5 ohms), and also between all 3 terminals and ground. There should be absolutely no other reading but "infinity" or "open" in these checks. Check the resistance between the positive terminal and the secondary terminal, and the resistance should be 9,000-12,000 ohms for a stock coil, and will vary according to maker for other coils. A reading near these numbers should generate decent spark, and function correctly with the proper voltage and current applied. Check your reluctor gap; this should be .006"-.010". Use a non-magnetic feeler gauge for this, or unplug the distributor before checking the air gap. The pickup coil should check with 150-900 ohms of resistance, and generate a square waveform (if you want to get fancy). If you have a dual-ballast resistor setup, there should be over 11 volts available on socket #3 of the ECU connector, and there should be 4.75-5.75 ohms of resistance on the auxilliary resistor side of the dual-ballast resistor. Check the ground of the ECU by checking resistance between pin #5 of the ECU and chassis ground (battery ground if available). If all these things check out, and there is power coming out of the key switch to the ignition in the first place, then the ECU is probably at fault. Good luck, man.
