440 runnin better

[71chmark]

Over the weekend I installed my 906 heads with the larger valves and springs that I got off e-bay and the 1.7 roller rockers I got from StRoKer.  Started it yesterday.  The engine was somewhat hard to start and then ran pretty bad at first. Probably due to the new lifters pumping up. It seemed OK but was not running well at all and putting out a lot of fumes.  Went out today and lowered the fuel level in the bowls and noticed my choke was shut.  I don't have a cable hooked up it just latches open.  It fired at soon as it started to crank. It's running pretty well.  I haven't taken it out yet as it got kind of late.  You can hear the rollers pretty good.  I heard they were noisy so I suppose that's normal.  StRoKer helped me a lot through PMs and even called me on the phone.  That was really great of him.  I had lots of fun setting everything up.  Had it installed when I noticed one of the roller bearings on my workbench.  I was looking to be sure as I was cleaning of the bench.  Took the side off I had just installed and found the missing space on the third rocker.  I was sure I was really careful.  Guess not.  Thought I'd share.  Thanks again  StRoKer.  I can already tell there is more power.

[NoMope Greg]

Good for you.   

 I'm looking forward to the day I get to start mine. 

[nivvy]

Thats awesome mark.... bigger valve heads and more lift will definately wake the motor up....    like I said I put those rockers next to my harlands and they look the same.... the needle bearings are caged on harlands but are 3 times the price 

Mine are chattery as well as most are... how I solve that issue is noisy gear drives....   

[71chmark]

I've read through other threads, here and on Moparts.  In one thread Chryco said there should be no noise.  On Moparts they talk about setting preload. Set to zero lash and add a 1/4 turn.  I don't mind the noise but I want to make sure everything is set properly.  I set them exactly to StRoKers guidance in the how to section and checked them several times.  They seem to be working well,just "chattery" to quote StRoKeR. Anyone have any input?

[moparmaniac59]

Hi Mark,
Sounds like you're gonna have an awesome motor. Should be a lot of fun!! I don't have any lash input, but keep us posted. Jason will get you straight. You'll have to post a rubber burnin' video when you get her right!!



                                                                      Matt B.

[nivvy]

 

Mechanical cam designs require a running clearance or valve lash, while hydraulic lifters are just the opposite. When the rocker arm assembly is properly torqued down into position, the pushrod must take up all the clearance and descend into the hydraulic lifter, causing the pushrod seat to move down by .020" to .060". The distance that the pushrod seat moves down away from the retaining lock is the "Lifter Preload". The hydraulic mechanism requires this precise amount of "preload" for it to do its job properly.

this is why you are so chattery.....
I was thinking you were running a solid my bad....... my stuff is chattery though.......... 

[71chmark]

OK.  I get it.  Mechanical cam (not sure what the difference is) versus Hydraulic cam.  I'll readjust and see what I get.

[moper]

Some hydraulic lifter designs are inherantly noisey. If you have a fast rate of lift hysdraulic cam, and the required valve spring pressures, and have anti-pump-up lifters, or variablt duration lifters, they will be noisey even with the right preload. Sometimes you can get thema  little quieter, but they will never be totally silent. You can do damage just by over preloading. So dont go more than 1/2 turn past "no play".

[Belgium Cuda]

Will this mean a hydraulic cam and lifter set doesn't need adjustable rockers?

[LAA66]

 The factory non T/A 340 engines were not adjustable. I don't see how one could feel comfortable using an aftermarket cam, lifter, pushrods or even a new valve job without the adjustable rockers. Too many variables. 

[71chmark]

A stock valve train doesn't preload its lifters, why does a roller need to?

[71chmark]

Set my rockers yesterday and started my engine today.  Runs pretty well but there is a rather loud tapping noise.  Used a sounding rod and could not hear the noise coming from anywhere within the motor.  Can't even tell what side it's coming from. The valve train sounds OK.  Wierd.  I've listen to tapping/knocking sounds within motors before with a sounding rod and it was always pretty obvious it was from the motor.  I tried to listen to see if it was a header leak but can't even really be sure which side it's coming from.  My brother in law is very experienced with motors (Chevy) and is coming over tomorrow to help me figure it out. He was a driver, mechanic and crew chief for a few dirt late model cars.  I'll let you know what we come up with.

[71chmark]

Found out where my knocking noise was coming from.   A couple of pushrods were tapping against the inside of one of the heads.  Spaced over the rockers a little and adjusted again and the sound is pretty much gone.  Looks like they were hitting on the last motor the pushrods were on too, because almost all of them have the rub marks on them even the ones that weren't touching on mine. The motor is running strong.  Did a couple of minor burnouts.  Now it seems to run good but if I let it idle, after a few minutes the rpms start  to drop and it just stalls.  Seems like it might be loading up a little bit too while cruising.  I imagine the carb still need some adjustment.  More bugs to work out I guess.

[nivvy]

Pushrods rubbing can be common on some iron heads when using thicker diameter pushrods... my eddy heads had the pushrod holes enlargend.....
Last time at the track my carb was loading up with fuel after doing a burnout after I made some adjustments to the carb... 

what carb are u running.... what plugs and gap ?? is it ok when cruising.......

[71chmark]

Holley 750 double pumper.  .035 gap. I adjusted my float down the other day, alot, when it was putting out a little black smoke.  But I didn't have the valves adjusted right then.  It seems like it's running out of gas at idle so I probably need to bring up my float level.  When cruising it seems like it is laboring.  Would a low bowl level cause this also?  It's weird because when it was in my garage and we were messing with the valve settings it idled good and I could reach in and just touch the key and it would start right up.  Must be the bowl.  The rubbing of the pushrods is still there a little bit.  I'm gonna run it for a couple of weeks and then pull the covers and see what I got.  Its just one pushrod is what it looks like.