I'm ready to start the front end project but I need help

[Steve/Bryce]

got it ill have to work some more saterday iv'e got a scrimage tomorrow

[Bullitt-]

next remove the clips at the rear of the torsion bars, I used needle nose pliers to compress



remove the nut from the LCA pivot, then follow CPs direction to pry LCA back which pushes the torsion bar out the back. You will need to remove the t-bar boots at some point...maybe they won't tear if your careful

[ChallengerHK]

The strut rods gave me fits. What will usually happen is that one end will loosen and the other end then has nothing to pull against, so it's a bear getting the second end loose. Chryco had suggested to me heating the tight end with a propane torch. I also ended up putting a pipe wrench on them to keep them from turning (with the jaws wrapped with shop towels so I didn't mess up the strut rod too much).

One more thing: WD-40 is really a water displacer. To loosen stuck fasteners you need a penetrating oil, something like Liquid Wrench, which will work its way into the threads. If you've got a tough one to remove, apply penetrating oil directly to the thread area and let it sit overnight.

[Steve/Bryce]

i can't get any pins out of any thing
oiled the snot out of em
tryed heated them
i even bent my needle nose plyers

[NoMope Greg]

BY pins, I'm assuming you mean the cotter pins.  I always had the best luck by straightening them as best I could, then tapping the open end back through the holes with a hammer.  That should allow you enough room to grab them with regular pliers or to stick a screwdriver through the loop end and lever it out.

If you aren't talking about the cotter pins, then you'll need to be more specific. 

[duodec]

Or the roll pins at the front of the struts?

I'm lucky having a desert car but I hit them with Kroil (penetrating oil) and they came out without much fuss.  But I have a set of roll-pin punches (bought from a gun tool supplier long ago) and they do make it easier to hit the pin straight on (there's a little bubble in the center of the punch tip that fits in the hollow end of the roll pin).

A friend once took a heavily built C-clamp, drilled a hole through the fixed end that the roll pin could slide through and a divot on the moving end to hold the other end of the pin steady.  Tightening the clamp forced the pin almost flush with the threaded part of the strut, and it was easy enough to drive out with a punch from there.  I'd be leery of doing that with a current store bought (chinese) clamp though.

[Bullitt-]

I used the 300lb Gorilla approach to the roll pins.... One end broke off anyway & I was tired of F-ing with them so I used a heavy duty wire cutter on the rest & got the remnant out on the bench......roll pins is cheep

[Steve/Bryce]

I have the Challenger up and the front wheels off.   A guy senyt me an article from Mopar Magazine.  They took out the whole front end and restored it.  Do I have to take the whole front end off or can I replace the rubber parts with the front end K member, still attached?

Bryce

[Bullitt-]

     No rules as to removing the K-frame but if your engine is out then your only 4-bolts away.. this would be the ideal time to remove, clean, inspect for cracks, loose welds & repaint if your drive train is still out.
     Also would be a good time to look at rebuilding the steering shaft coupler if there is any play, about $15  Part# 04443436AC available from any Chrysler or Dodge dealership.
Here's a how to
http://www.buschis-place.de/steeringcouplerrepair.htm

[Chryco Psycho]

 
 it is actually very easy to drop the whole K out & rebuild it , optionally you can get the K powder coated , replace the T bars for bigger one & bolt the engine onto the K & install the whole thing from below as well

[cudaguy71]

I have the Challenger up and the front wheels off.   A guy senyt me an article from Mopar Magazine.  They took out the whole front end and restored it.  Do I have to take the whole front end off or can I replace the rubber parts with the front end K member, still attached?

Bryce

I sent you that article, thought it would be of some help...  If your drivetrain is out, removing the K-frame is the way to go...

  it is actually very easy to drop the whole K out & rebuild it , optionally you can get the K powder coated , replace the T bars for bigger one & bolt the engine onto the K & install the whole thing from below as well

 

[ChallengerHK]

How's this going, Bryce?

[GreenFish]

Bryce,

I have to agree with some of the previous posters. I did this job years ago when I wasnt too verse in turning wrenches. I should have just taken out the entire K member and cleaned and repainted everything. I didnt do it then and now I wish i had. If the engine is out, and you dont intend on getting this thing on the road any time soon. Go ahead and just pull the entire front end, clean everything, paint and or powder coat parts and put it back together. You'll thank yourself later.

Good luck dude

[Steve/Bryce]

it's done woooo!
finally got all the ruber replaced and have the disc brakes on switched out the drums

[Bullitt-]