BAD TIMING

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

Ok
  I know I have asked this in the last post but I wanted this question to be seen and answered directly. When timing a stock 73 318 ( I need this in terms a newbie can understand) I need to set the timing at what point. Above or below top dead center? 

[cudaguy71]

about 10 degrees before TDC... at idle with vacuum line disconnected from distributor and plugged...

[Bullitt-]

This should set you on the correct path

[71chally416]

The factory setting is TDC or zero degrees for a 1972 318 according to my Chiltons manual (It has no listing for the 73 motor) That would be with the vacuum advance unhooked. It's unlikely they advanced it in '73 after having it at TDC for 69-72. 10 before might put you into detonation, might not.   

[MEK-Dangerfield]

As you twist the distributor, you should be able to find the sweet spot. I had to retard mine a couple of degrees from that spot because of detonation under acceleration. The factory specs are a good starting point, but keep in mind every engine is unique.


    Mike

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

I put the car at 10 degree's and it smoothed out alot but seems to have lost a little at the pedal. It also runs a little faster. I don't have a tach so I am not sure how fast the ideal is. You mentioned a sweet spot, what am I looking for. I like it at Idle it is much smoother and in gear you almost can't hear the motor where before it had a little rumble / vibration to it.

[LAA66]

 If you understand or can hear detonation under load, Time it to just that point then back it off (retard) a bit. I also keep my distributor hold down a little loose so I can change the timing easily during an outing.  

[0tter45]

Its also important to check the full advanced timing with the vaccum to the distributor disconnected and plugged.   Most small blocks like to run around 34 degrees total for max power.  When your checking timing see what rpm total timing is all in at.    If your engine is pinging below this rpm  when you step on the pedal you need to slow the timing curve down.  if you have a stock distributor you can turn the ecentric posts that the governor  springs attach, to slow the timing curve down or you may need to install heavier springs.

otter

[Bullitt-]

Sounds like your on the right track, maybe back off a couple of degrees to 8 & see if things improve.

Probably need to dial in the carburetor as well,,,get a vacuum gauge & familiarize yourself with this article   http://www.allpar.com/fix/carb-tuning.html

You can also use a vacuum gauge/pump to get the distributor set up correctly. This article was written by our club president, gives you TMI but you should get the big picture
http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

Sounds like your on the right track, maybe back off a couple of degrees to 8 & see if things improve.

Probably need to dial in the carburetor as well,,,get a vacuum gauge & familiarize yourself with this article   http://www.allpar.com/fix/carb-tuning.html

You can also use a vacuum gauge/pump to get the distributor set up correctly. This article was written by our club president, gives you TMI but you should get the big picture
http://tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar%20Timing.pdf

GREAT INFO!! I don't hear any pinging. So I guess that is good. I will find a gauge and try this. THANKS!!

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

I have another question while I have such great people helping. Is there any differance in using a new elect distributer or the Orange box? Some have told me it is better and some have told me it is the same. Would love the input. I don't want to change things but would like to know if the orange box really does anything to imporve things.

[71chally416]

If you're going to keep the car and modify it for better performance as $$$ allows, I'd say to stick with what you have and then step up to one of the modern ignitions like an MSD when $$$ allows. If you already have the stock electronic setup you will notice little or no difference with the orange box. That's really for those that have point distributors.
You have to have a motor capable of making power above 5,000rpm before worrying about that. First Headers/exhaust and a better Intake/Carb/air cleaner. Then you'll want a posi rear if you don't have one.

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

Sounds good to me!!     

[Supercuda]

Just my 2 cents, guys. I like timing an engine for maximum performance, but there is a "sweet spot" for every tune-up. I helped a friend with a 318-2V Duster spank the HE** out of a 1968 Firebird 350HO. The 2V Carter is a great little carb, and will work like the devil if you tune it right. The ignition timing is another place to experiment, until you have found your personal sweet spot. The tune-up specifications for the 1973 318 are as follows: Spark plug- Champion N-13Y, gapped at .035". I have found that increasing the gap to .045" is very beneficial. Spark plug heat range should be adjusted after you have determined your other settings. Ignition timing is 2 1/2 degrees BTDC in a manual transmission car, and TDC on an automatic-equipped car. This was determined by a desire to decrease engine emissions, and wasn't specified to provide performance. By comparison, the 340 for that year was spec'd out at: 5 degrees BTDC for manual, 2 1/2 degrees BTDC for automatic. Idle speed was supposed to be 750 rpm for manual, and 700 rpm for auto. The 340 was specified at 800 rpm, regardless of transmission. Timing an engine without a timing light is best done with a vacuum gauge- adjust your timing for highest vacuum reading at idle speed, then back off the timing until you lose 2" of vacuum. This is a great starting point for maximum performance tuning, but I have had excellent luck with a good timing light and good sense. 10 degrees is always a good starting point for timing a Chrysler engine, no matter its displacement.

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

      
WONDERFUL INFO!!!!