I may try these springs

[Moparal]

My car isn't quite as stiff in the rear as it should be. I only have 318 barracuda springs installed and they are close to flat. I am thinking about trying these out. They are the right spec, and the price seems fair.

What do you think?
Deal or no Deal

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=350067239484&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=022

[Chryco Psycho]

you can buy the Mopar ones for $125 or less , add shipping to those & the price is close , these May be better quality , not sure if you want that much lift , the car will corner better with flat springs

[Changin Gears]

Looks like both springs are identical, which means no torque control.  We just put a set of the Mopar ones  in my nephews 72 Challenger.

[Moparal]

Im dealing with the rear ujoint and pinion being too close to the bottom of my floor /bump area. Axle wind up and medium bumps will make the nose of my rearend touch the body right now. I got like 2 inches of room before I sit in the car. The car runs and drive really smooth right now. No vibrations either. I had to put the pinion 2* up to get a very slight vibration out. This is the smoothest my car has ever driven. I drove it 40 miles yesterday without any problems except one bump on a side road made the rear joint and pinion touch the floor.

Any suggestions?   It rides great, but I believe I need to raise the whole car up over an inch, front and back.  I do know if I dump the clutch , the rearend of the shaft and pinion nose will hit. I thought it was a broken tranny mount, but it is good.

I can actually see the rub on the driveshaft. Right where the weld is at for the rear yoke. It is touching right there. The axles are twisting too much. If the springs didnt twist, i'd be happy with this location. I rode GO-FISH, his wife and his Baby in my car and it didnt rub because of the weight, but I didnt hit any bumps either.

I triied 2* down and the vibe was really noticeable, no shim and in stock location, it would bump, when I jumped into it and dumped the clutch, and I felt and heard the vibration, with 2* up it has no vibes, rides great, just too close to the floor pan now. I am also going to install new ubolts I believe, when I get this issue fixed. I have un done them 4 times now.  I did consider adding one spring more and getting a factory pinion snubber and installing it. I think Doc Differential sells a snubber kit for the truck dana's or I was going to make my own.

Other choices I dont want is Coil over/ladder bar     traction bars,     air shocks    or other types like this. I want a clean look.

[422STROKER]

Al, maybe some clamps on the forward spring sections would help?  I put some on mine and don't hear much of that going on.  My car is pretty low and the snubber is set up <1" from the floorpan.

Tom

[Moparal]

I was going to clamp the fronts for now , for a temporary fix, but it will still be too close. A snubber wouldn't even install on my rear without hitting the floor and staying on it all the time. I was even thinking about installing a bumper pad on the pan to help controll the twist. I even considered cal-tracs but I really want a clean look.  I am sure the ride height is too low.

[hemiken]

Hi Alan,

Their is another way of lifting the rear without removing the spring packs........ But it is a little time consuming and fiddly.........

You can pry open each leaf spring wide enough to slide in a slightly thicker piece of teflon slide material, this will increase the pressure from the springs and lift the rear that little bit needed and firm up a considerable bit.

[Moparal]

I thought about that. My springs seem flat. I believe since they were 318 light wieght springs, being only 5 and flat, and with the heavier engine, it wouldnt be a long term fix. I could also crank up the front tortion bars, but this will only stress the whole system more.  I went to a dodge site and seen 208 plus 32 shipping and also the link I posted...

[hemiken]

Chrysler springs were designed to be flat when installed, i think your car is sitting exactly how i would have mine.  Just firm up the rears with packers and you will notice a considerable change in performance and eliminate the tail shaft problem.
I would suggest installing packers that are 2 or 3 millimeters thicker than the originals you have in it, probably lean more towards the 2 millimeter thicker ones worth a shot unless you are dtermined to change out the spring packs old mate.  Just trying to save your back, those things are heavy to install.

[Moparal]

The rear yoke is still 2 inches from the floor, it would hit leaving it right there if I hit any bumps or dump the clutch. The center of the fender measures under 26 inches from the floor.  With the 8 3/4 I really didnt have an issue there. When I installed the dana, I also installed the sway bar perches and it moved the rearend higher up in the chassis. I thought about removing the the sway bar plates too, but will want the rear factory bar on there sooner or later. I also thought it may be the moser spring pads. They may be a tad taller, but not much. I am sure it is a combonation off all of thee above. I couldn't get the adjustable snubber for the 8 3/4 on my car either. It would just set right on it, so I had left the stock one on it with the other rear.

[hemiken]

That is a problem with the Dana rears, they are very long in the snout.  In this case it may be advisable to fit 4 x 5/16 inch teflon sliders if you decide to.  This would give you a full 1" lift on each side, do you think this would be enough ?

[Moparal]

One inch would be enough Kenny, the slides would prob work, I feel the springs have lost there tention though. I was looking at kits like those on Ebay last night

[hemiken]

You being their in the flesh would be best judge of what condition the original springs are in, so it comes down to what you would be happy doing old mate.  Personally i would not lift it more than an 1" 3/8 tops.  But install a firmer spring pack.  I would love to see where your rear fender lip is sitting in relation to the tire now please.

[Moparal]

What I used to do in the past always worked when I street rodded my car.
I took 3/4 ton ford truck springs and cut them to fit in between my regular springs, spacing them all the way to the spring eye. I had 8 on one side total and 9 on the other side. With only 3 loose factory leaves out behind the axle and unclamped in the rear. It was excellent traction, smooth ride and I could do wheel stands with my car since they were stiff enough. I dont want to do that again either.

The car sits low enough now as to,  I could hear and see the top of the tire rubbing on the inside top of the wheel well in a curve/bump getting into my driveway. Remember, I run 15" tires now and still measure too low for clearance.

I will over come this sooner or later. I can still ride with comfort, and accelerate full throttle with no problems. I just cant dump the clutch hard or hit big bumps. It isnt doing any damage right now either

[hemiken]

  They would of been some crazy tuff spring pack buddy.

If it is not so bad, maybe you could wedge something inbetween each spring as a pcker temperarily just to try, this would be as easy as just lifting the cars wieght off the springs and using something to pry the springs open and intalling something like a 5/16 bolts in between just to see if it has an effect, maybe.  Just thinking out loud buddy.