The info from Autox is awesome! Great to get that kind of information into the real world now and then, without some mechanic like me botching the english/jargon translation. Chryco, the issue with your brakes was definitely rotor cooling, as you stated that you still had a firm pedal. If the fluid had boiled, the pedal would've turned to mush. Slots would have helped, as the gases made by your pads were not venting, and causing a "no stopping" complaint. Also, the 10" drums are good for street driving, but marginal at best for any real performance work. Try 11" drums, if you aren't ready for the big dive into 4-wheel disc yet. When you put the 4WD diff breather on, you want to replace the little vent with a real breather filter, and a catch can was de rigeur in the heyday of road-racing these old musclecars. The adjustable prop valve will stay with you, whatever you do, and I don't think you have to have power steering on your car to have the totally cool brake setup. A lot of the engineering will go into the linings, no matter what you do. Whether it's disc or drum, it will take a pretty special compound to deliver the performance required of track conditions. I have the 10.87" discs on my '67 'Cuda, with 11" drums, and I love it. It will give you back most of the dime you stop on, with excellent feel. I do want the bigger rotors, but haven't got the time or money yet for conversion.