CV Halfshaft on Daytona

[Pistol Gripper]

Not an e-body, but it is a Mopar.

Reader's Digest version.

I had the passenger side axle (half shaft) go out on my 88 Dayton Turbo Z.  Replaced it over the weekend and the replacement ( rebuilt ) grenaded at about 100 ft. from the driveway.  Eased out the clutch, low rpms, CLUNK, CLUNK, Kaboom !
 

I'll be sticking another in it this evening.  Is there some magic to this or did I just get a bad axle the first time ?

Thanks,

P.G.

[tactransman]

Probably a bad rebuilt axle,I see it ALOT! Did the original one do the same thing? If so ,you have a problem.

[Pistol Gripper]

The original just got sloppy from a dry outer bearing.  This one looks like it came apart, as in disassembled itself, rather than exploded.  I will look at the motor mounts etc. while I'm at it.  I hope I don't have to wrestle the parts store manager to get it replaced. 


P.G.

[71chally416]

I had one come out of my old Z car when I went over a big dip in the road. It ended up being the motor was shifted to one side in the chassis. The position of the motor is very important on the FWD cars. You should measure your installed axels to verify that it's right. Since there are probably 4 different types of axels they use it's hard to say what that dimension should be for yours. If you have a repair manual for it the information's in there on how to identify the axel, what the dimensions should be and where you measure it  at.

[tactransman]

A little test: When you have the axles installed WITHOUT the 1 1/4 nut installed on the outside. Push in on the axle shafts,it should slide into the hub about the same distance on both sides.

[71chally416]

   That'll work too 

[Pistol Gripper]

Gotta admit, the Parts place gave me a new one, no problems.  Now,  off to crawl under the car Again!

P.G.

[tactransman]

It's probably because you are not the first person to have a problem with one! 

[ShelbyDogg]

Had 2 Turbo Daytonas and 1 Tubo Laser (same thing) in the 80s. Fast 2.2s!  If the motor mount was broken, the engine would torque and pull the joint apart. Were you jumping on it?  If not, probably stress cracks in the CV joint housing.

[Pistol Gripper]

I'm replacing the motor mounts just in case.  So far I've pulled the center front mount and it was in 2 pieces.  I'm replacing the passenger side upper next.  For less than $20 I figure it's good insurance.  I was just truing to get the car moving when the joint came apart the last time, 1500 rpm maybe, I'm counting on it being the mount.

P.G.

[Supercuda]

The one thing I have not seen mentioned is the possibility of the wrong CV shaft. There were always many different lengths of shaft, on any front-drive car. It is the bane of CV rebuilders everywhere. If the wrong shaft gets put in the box, it can screw up your day, as I have found out myself. It is possible that the supplier for your local auto parts store, has issues with getting the right parts numbers in the boxes. I have seen it many times. It does sound as if your drivetrain was shifting excessively in the frame, and that it was either the cause of your problem, or the "last straw", so to speak. I hope this is the end of your troubles.

[71chally416]

   There's even lots of different types that might have been used in each car.....

[ShelbyDogg]

You probably had the right shaft. The turbo cars had a 2-section shaft with an extra bearing to keep torque steer down. The non-turbo cars just had a long shaft on that side. I think it was the passenger side.