Paying Serious Money $$ for Original 1969 and 1970 Alternator and Starter Cores

[FY1Challenger]

Hey folks, I've got customers lined up to buy your cores if they are original (non-remaned) and are for 1969 and 1970 model year B and E bodies! Paying up to $65.00 for some code dates. Check through that junk in the corner and let me know what you find! Cores need to be complete, original, and restorable. Thanks, Jim - Dixie Restorations (803) 924-6247.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

 Man when I think of the cores we sold back in the day for .50 or 1.00     

[torredcuda]

I need to check mine out as I have a few milk crates full of them.How to you decipher the date codes on them?

[Challenger6pak]

I need to check mine out as I have a few milk crates full of them.How to you decipher the date codes on them?

I would like to know about the codes also.

[Alaskan_TA]

The number in the center of the "clock" is the year, beyond that I do not know how to narrow it down further.

Jim, I have a 1969 one here I have been saving, how much is it to have one redone? 

Barry

[FY1Challenger]

Barry - we normally charge $225.00 with you furnishing the core. Your price would be $200.00 b/c of the unselfish way you have helped us all to better restorations. Wish I could do it for less but I have a partner who just does this to help me earn a little side money. He's not a Mopar guy.
If you're interested let me know. We don't have anything in the shop right now so you'll be first in line! 

To code date an alternator:
Turn the alternator on its back (pulley down) and find the threaded stud. Look above the stud (side view now) and you'll see a molded flat section that houses the capacitor. There are three different numbers stamped into the alternator casing in this area. The part number (seven digit ex. - 3438172), the code date (three or four digit ex. 35  69 = 35th wk of '69) and a manufacturer or line ID ( ex. 2-3-2). It's also important to check for originality by insuring the original bearing is still present in the rear case. It's very distinctive b/c of its "raised rib" or "bullseye" design. Any alternator w/o this style bearing has been rebuilt and most likely the fine casting details lost.

[FY1Challenger]

BTT

[AMXguy]

I have a 5-69 and a 25-70, one of them has the raised bearing plug you're talking about the other doesn't. if they're something you might want let me know.

[torredcuda]

I only have one with the bullseye bearing still intact,the year is 70 in the center of the but I don`t understand how to decipher the brail looking clock for the date code.

[FY1Challenger]

The code date "clock" is simply a way to tell when that particular part was made. It does not tell you when the individual parts were assembled by the alternator vendor. To determine that information see below -

To code date an alternator:
Turn the alternator on its back (pulley down) and find the threaded stud. Look above the stud (side view now) and you'll see a molded flat section that houses the capacitor. There are three different numbers stamped into the alternator casing in this area. The part number (seven digit ex. - 3438172), the code date (three or four digit ex. 35  69 = 35th wk of '69) and a manufacturer or line ID ( ex. 2-3-2). It's also important to check for originality by insuring the original bearing is still present in the rear case. It's very distinctive b/c of its "raised rib" or "bullseye" design. Any alternator w/o this style bearing has been rebuilt and most likely the fine casting details lost.

[KNOT0623]

Hi all
I need to alternators for my restos....my 70 Challey was built 11-11-69 and i have a T/A with a build date of 4-3-70.  can you help me with the alternators? 

Thanks
Russ

russ@rhwerkheiser.com