ready to dye/paint my interior plastic

[burrpenick]

I've finally gotten the seats covered and the headliner installed, now I am ready to dye/paint the plastic pieces for the doors/kick panels/seat backs/and rear side panels. The tops of the door panels and back panels are dried to a powder. This junk brushes off easily as you well know. I know they will never look like original, but they will have to work for now. What is the best method of prepping them for PAINT. Yes, I have decided to use base coat enamel paint INSTEAD of SEM dye; probably will shoot the panels with a primer first and add some flex agent to the paint. My initial guess is to sand the panels where the coating has deteriated and trying to blend it into the grain areas. I also thought about a wire brush?

Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated!

George in Tallahassee

 

[burrpenick]

Well, I hope that maybe my research can help someone in the future- since no one offered any suggestions. Interesting that someone did say in another thread that the black panels held up much better than the colored ones. Thats a good bit to remember if you are planning a swap. I simply prepped my (green) panels by wire brushing the loose stuff off (mostly in the top areas where the sun/weather got to them) and then went back over them with steel wool. The paint shop said the base coat paint was what most everyone was using, no flex agent required. One quart with the additives cost me $93. I just washed the panels with Greased Lightening and then another detergent and rinsed them well. Saturday is the day to spray.........still have to finish up the dash, steering column, and carpet.

George

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I used SEM too, but the issue I worry about here is having to wire brush the old panels. Wouldn't that take the textured look out of it?   


  Mike

[burrpenick]

Yes, I agree that the dye always covers and looks good. I just wanted somthing that would be more durable, and a perfect match color wise. I just had the paint shop use their color gun to match it perfectly.

Did the wire brush smooth out the grain? Some, but not totally. I will live with it. Will let you know how it comes out saturday.

George

['Cuda Hunter]

I took the panels to the power washer and sprayed the panels very good.  The soap actually takes off any grease and it also removes any of the powdered texture.  Unfortunatley it does take the texture away if it is really bad.  But it does leave you with something that will take paint very well.  I also always use a flexable primer before paint.  Havn't had any cracks yet with the flexable primer. 

[CrazyPete]

here's the process i did i put it on a local mopar board check it out
http://heartlandmopars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88

[Moparal]

I like how you made that fender tag   Did you put the original up to protect it from being stolen?

[burrpenick]

THe original tag was just about rusted away. I had the Alaska fellow help me out with a decode. I am keeping it but didnt really feel a need to have an exact copy of it so I just had a local awards shop make this one up with the correct size/spacing and decided to go with a matching color as well.

[burrpenick]

I sprayed the hard interior pieces saturday with the RM Basecoat paint.....no clear. They look fine, with the exception of some of the missing grain and a few scratches. I do believe this method will be far more durable than the dye, of course time will tell. The paint was pricy at $93 per quart. I may keep looking for some used panels that are in better shape than mine and do it all over!  George

[coupman35]

  lets see them i will be doing my parts soon also.

[Kapteenikosmos]

well you probably already know it but.....