Author Topic: Very good Rocker arm comparison from Mopar Action Magazine .....................  (Read 9513 times)

Offline tactransman

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Since there was a recent discussion on this topic,I thought I would post this article for everyone to read. Enjoy! :cheers:





















Terry-tactransman 
Torqueflite/Automatic Transmission Specialist
Union, Mo.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day,teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime.




Offline dutch

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thanks for posting....  very interesting   :2thumbs:
*** Bart ***

Offline Jacksboys

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Thanks for the article.  I have a set of the SB 1.6 Crane Iron rockers in my garage that I plan to use on an engine in the future.  The only bad thing I have heard about them is that the adjustment screws had a bad batch and can fail, but they have supposedly fixed the problem on the new ones.
1971 Dodge Challenger:  360/904/3.23
   
Success is the maximum utilization of the ability that you have. - Zig Ziglar

Offline Ornamental

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Thank you for posting, much appreciated!  :thumbsup:
The scans have been saved to my laptop.
Panther Pink '72 Challenger Rallye.
Grey '70 Challenger R/T

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nivvy

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Harland Sharp will make you 1.7's .........  :working:

Offline AMXguy

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So for a pretty much stock 6 pack 440 build using stock valve covers what set up would you go with? I was thinking I'd get the Crane set up but now I'm not sure, maybe I should just stay stock. I just want to set them and forget it I'm not into all the race car stuff.
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO

Offline dodge freak 2

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I went with the aftermarket cast iron rockers on my SB...alum. can break on the street unless you are inspecting them often. They break and there needle bearings all over and in the oil pan.

Sure the race stuff is nice but only if you got money to burn.

Hughes engines has some nice looking ones at a fair price and their cams are pretty wild, so you should think their rockers would be strong.


EDIT...what the story fails to say is use a stud kit to hold the shafts down, Hughes has them...I had a bolt break this last summer, was able to get the broken piece out of the head and found the hold down but the head part of the bolt is down in my oil pan somewhere. I see no reason to use bolts now.
« Last Edit: October 04, 2008 - 02:23:43 PM by dodge freak 2 »

Offline LAA66

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 Thanks for the article, strikes a familiar note. I am on my 2nd set of non bushed adjustable iron rockers and third set of adjustment studs. The old Sig Erson RA's galled at the pressure points on the shaft ruining both. The studs also came loose in time and wouldn't hold their adjustment. Another set of rockers with lock nut studs (MP I believe)started breaking at the nut/rocker juncture. This is on a 340 with less than .500 lift. 

   

Offline dodge freak 2

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I believe I have those rockers--thats what the E-bay seller said they were--I use thread lock and no lock nut and the shafts are banna grooved . Thread lock works really well. Its tough to turn but still can be done and if they feel too loose, another drop of thread lock takes care of it...just don't use the super strong stuff.

nivvy

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It says the iron rockers are only good to 400lbs of pressure.... I was running 658lbs so iron is not an option for me...  :scared:

I love my harlands and are a supporter of needle bearing rockers.... people who break may have not been setup or or not had the right rocker for application.... Indy will tell you not to use there rockers past a certian point of pressure and lift and indy will actually suggest to you to use harlands  :2thumbs:

lock tight on the studs.. am i reading that right,,,, maybe for heads that oil through the #4 cam bearing....  :working:

Offline dodge freak 2

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 harlands are nice but were out of my budget. No, its the adjuster screws that have thread lock on them...I know, pictures all show nuts on top that you tighen down but these came to me with no nuts and were tough to turn..some got a little loose when I adjusted them, so I used thread lock..the red stuff and they are fine.

It works for my little guy, been a few years too.

Offline Roppa440

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I have fitted the Hughes rockers. I was very impressed by them. Quality bit of kit.

The only drawback is trying to catch Dave Hughes on a good day where he is not ranting. :grinno:
Dave
1970 Challenger R/T
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited

Offline arcticmopar

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I have fitted the Hughes rockers. I was very impressed by them. Quality bit of kit.

The only drawback is trying to catch Dave Hughes on a good day where he is not ranting. :grinno:
Roppa: did you use the Hughes pushrod kit?
I would like to find 5/16 ball/cup pushrods for my 383, I would perfer not to grind my EDDE heads myself for 3/8 pushrods and I only have a mild hyd cam but need adjustable rockers to stop the noise!
RUNS WHITH SISSORS!  and  DIGITALY CHALLENGED!

Offline Roppa440

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I bought the "cut to length" pushrods they were selling at the time. I figured they were strong enough for my application (but I bought spares just in case) and I wanted to make sure they were exactly the correct length to just show a couple of adjuster threads on the underside of the rocker when adjusted correctly.
Plus I have one lifter slightly taller than all the rest due to having to replace one.
Dave
1970 Challenger R/T
1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited

Offline Marquis_Rex

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Excellent article. Thanks alot. I've just changed my rockers and shafts and pusrods.
I've gone for Harland Sharpe 1.6 ratio ones.
I probably didnt need them. Sure, I'm running a wild cam, but I have comp hydraulic 'high energy' lifters so perhaps I wont be able to use the high rev potential of the Harlands.
Still, it's made me feel better  :thumbsup:
1970 Dodge Challenger 440 R/T
1995 Porsche 911 turbo (993)
1982 BMW 323i "E21"
1985 BMW M635CSi "E24"
2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4
1971 Jaguar XJ6 series 1
2000 Jaguar "X308" XJR
1993 Mercedes 400E
1964 MCI MC-5 coach 'RV'