Need some guidance

[RusTy/SE]

Here is a pic of the remains of a 72 Rallye which donated a few pieces of it's sheetmetal to my Challenger within a couple of months of being involved in a garage fire. After being out in the weather for slightly more than a year the shop was getting ready to remove a rear frame rail figuring that the undercar area had escaped the worst of the heat. Not so. I'm told that they tested a rear frame rail for strength with a large screwdriver which pushed right through - by hand  Do yourself a favor Ray, and pass

Russ

[LAA66]

 That car is obviously distorted onefornow. Must have been pretty high heat.

 As for the frame rails if it had undercoating, then add more heat cause that would burn well also. How old was the car when it was torched? Maybe rust in the frame prior too, caused the weak metal?

 I do agree, the one Ray is looking at would need serious consideration for a "keeper car". Maybe just buy it a a parts car price if the seller wil go for it. Then see how it look after spending time with it.

[RusTy/SE]

That car is obviously distorted onefornow. Must have been pretty high heat.

 As for the frame rails if it had undercoating, then add more heat cause that would burn well also. How old was the car when it was torched? Maybe rust in the frame prior too, caused the weak metal?

 I do agree, the one Ray is looking at would need serious consideration for a "keeper car". Maybe just buy it a a parts car price if the seller wil go for it. Then see how it look after spending time with it.

It was in an attached garage, the fire started in the attic area above the Challenger. This happened early '07.

[71ChallengerSE]

Here is a pic of the remains of a 72 Rallye which donated a few pieces of it's sheetmetal to my Challenger within a couple of months of being involved in a garage fire. After being out in the weather for slightly more than a year the shop was getting ready to remove a rear frame rail figuring that the undercar area had escaped the worst of the heat. Not so. I'm told that they tested a rear frame rail for strength with a large screwdriver which pushed right through - by hand  Do yourself a favor Ray, and pass

Russ

Does that car still exist??? If so I need the front windshield area if its not too bad, I ll pay for it and the shipping and whatever.

[RusTy/SE]

Does that car still exist??? If so I need the front windshield area if its not too bad, I ll pay for it and the shipping and whatever.

No it was sold for scrap after what was useable was removed and\or sold.

[buzzard]

 If you were an expert in metal work you would try to stay away. Don't touch this. Look for something better. You will find better. < old metal workers opinion > Good Luck.  BUZZARD

[AprilsPink72Cuda]

I agree with everyone else.  Run like the wind my friend!

[lemming303]

Run away! Run away!

[cudax34me]

  stay away.......just like you would a real barracuda in the ocean.you'll be eaten alive umm i mean your wallet will.


p.s. my 10yr old son said save yourself the trouble and a lot of money.......by yourself a new challenger.

[Ray461]

Does anyone know how to tell or what the casting numbers are for 426 Hemi blocks? Help...

[67vertman]

Try these guys.....http://www.hothemiheads.com/

They are a wealth of info on Hemis. 

[Ray461]

Try these guys.....http://www.hothemiheads.com/

They are a wealth of info on Hemis. 

Hmm...actually they only have specs on engines up to 392...

[dutch]

http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/mopar/mopar%20casting%20numbers/castingnumbers.html

[Scatterbrain]

I have some experience with this.  I bought a 71 corvette in "fixer-up" condition.



I was naive to think I could tackle this size of a project.  At the time I had very little experience with working on cars, but knew folks who did and was willing to learn.  It had no engine and the front end was a replacement piece that needed to be glued in.  I figured it wouldn't take much to get it running but a little hard work and time.  Well, I was wrong.  It got expensive fast.  More over I reached a point where there were no rewards.  I ended up selling it (at a loss).  Could I have finished it?  Sure, but in hindsight I don't think I would have tried to do that much for a first project.  If you are just testing the waters sometimes it really is better to go slow and wade in than jumping into the deep end.  I bought a running 73 Chally.  It does need work here and there, but there is nothing more satisfying than just simply getting in and driving it around.  Every time I take it out of action for repairs I can't wait to get it back up... Its been down for about 2 weeks while I get rid of the air shocks with an add-a-leaf package.  I've been there...save the money and get something that doesn't need that much work.  This one will need the hands of an expert.  Get something that is in better shape.

PS:  Took alot of cash and time to get the vette to look like this and it really wasn't all that much different than it was before.

[ViperMan]

That's a bummer - i like those Vettes...

Looks like you definitely had a lot into it to then have to get rid of it.



My opinion is certainly the same - run far and fast from that 'Cuda.  My other opinion is - if all you have is $1,500 bucks, go buy a model or something.  Any project car that you buy is going to remain a project car for a long, long time.  Restoring cars gets more and more expensive every year, and if you don't have money now, you won't have money later.

In addition, in MOST cases, restoring a car will ALWAYS cost more than it's worth.  You don't restore cars to make money - you restore them to drive and enjoy them.

Jay Leno once said, "If you restore a car, and you do it right, and you make money off of it, you did something wrong."

I don't like telling someone to pass on a dream, but you've gotta have a reality check.  Nothing you buy for $1,500 is going to drive, and chances are too high that you'll never get to drive it.

Have you looked at 60's A-bodies?  They go for much cheaper than their E-body siblings.

Jeff