Overheating Issue

[Moparal]

I run a big block 22 inch radiator in my 440-6. I spent 225.00 and had them install a 3 row. It runs 183/188 when it is in the 90 here. And in town in the stop and go, it runs 192 or so.  A good tune up, clean cylinder walls behind the freeze plugs, clean heads, and the right matching pullies makes for a cool running engine. Of corse a fan shroud that is installed propper to

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Don't shoot me guys... I'm just throwing this out there.   


  If he poured water down into his empty radiator, would the water come out the bottom quickly, or maybe delayed a few minutes due to clogs?   

I'm totally agreeing with it being the radiator, or water pump, but I wonder if we can narrow this down?   


  Mike


 

[RDF]

Don't shoot me guys... I'm just throwing this out there.   


  If he poured water down into his empty radiator, would the water come out the bottom quickly, or maybe delayed a few minutes due to clogs?   

I'm totally agreeing with it being the radiator, or water pump, but I wonder if we can narrow this down?   


  Mike

That's what I was thinking of doing b4 taking it to the rad shop.....I was going to put the hose in it to see how much "flow" there really was/is.....I can tell you this, when I emptied the rad tonight, I took a flashlight and looked in the top, I pulled out a 1" piece of RTV black that was stuck in one of the holes......seems like there could be more where that came from.....

[Moparal]

You can unhook the upper hose and watch it pump out while running or useing a electric water pump drive system like moroso. I have a radiator cap with a garden hose end on it to flush out the system.

You can stick a garden hose in the suction side and watch when the thermostat opens to see if the engine gets hot inside itself or if the radiator is doing it.

You can let water run through by doing what you said MEK but you can't judge the volume very good that way.

Does the lower hose have a spring inside of it?

[71chally416]

Yep, it would be the suck to spend $800 on a radiator and then find out it's a $58 water pump. I've never seen one get so plugged up it flows NO water.  I don't think the rads they used in the 70's cars are candidates for "rodding out". They usually spring 100 leaks afterwards.
(I've attempted it several times) I guess that's more of an old car thing when they were made out of thicker copper(?)

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Do the pour/run water test through the radiator and see where that gets you. 

[RDF]

Does the lower hose have a spring inside of it?

I haven't taken the lower one off yet.  I know the top one has it in there, but not too sure on the bottom one.  Will take it off tomorrow night and let you know.  

[cudabob496]

I have a 72 service manual for my Cuda. It lists possible causes of overheating: blocked radiator air passages, incorrect timing, low engine oil, incorrect valve timing, bad temp gauge, restricted overflow tube, faulty rad cap, frozen heat control valve, dragging brakes, excessive engine idle, frozen coolant, faulty fan drive, faulty temp sending unit, faulty vacuum bypass valve, overfilling, insufficient corrosion inhibiter, blown head gasket, broken or shifted lower hose spring, low coolant level, collapsed rad hose, fan belt lose, glazed, or oily, air leak through bottom hose, bad thermostat, water pump impeller broken or lose, restricted rad water passages or restricted engine water jacket.

[73EStroker]

And if you are pulling stuff out of the top then try flushing it backwards from the bottom to the top.

[71chally416]

If this problem just suddenly became an issue the chances are about 95% that it is the water pump if you eliminated the thermostat. A radiator doesn't become completely plugged in a week or even a month, and if the corrosion was that bad you would plainly see it inside the radiator cap. I would think if anything it would gradually heat up if it was clogged.  I would pull the pump off and take a look at the impeller. It's a very easy R&R with just the fan/pulley and the 4 bolts holding the pump on.

[RDF]

If this problem just suddenly became an issue the chances are about 95% that it is the water pump if you eliminated the thermostat. A radiator doesn't become completely plugged in a week or even a month, and if the corrosion was that bad you would plainly see it inside the radiator cap. I would think if anything it would gradually heat up if it was clogged.  I would pull the pump off and take a look at the impeller. It's a very easy R&R with just the fan/pulley and the 4 bolts holding the pump on.

Good point, I never really thought of that....I think I can pick up a water pump fairly cheap at auto-bones or something......I'll pull it off while I have the rad out and check out the impeller as suggested.   

[Supercuda]

It sounds like a water pump problem to me. If it were the radiator, the coolant would have come out the neck, while the cap was off with the engine running. With the t-stat closed, the lower hose would have tried to collapse, if the radiator were the problem. It sounds like no flow to me. Another possibility, but a rare one, is a backwards thermostat. I am not trying to say anything, just trying to cover all the bases. Are you sure that the t-stat is properly installed? If so, the water pump is a very good possibility. On cheap rebuilds, the impeller is often pressed on to the shaft, and can spin on the shaft. Check everything closely!

[RDF]

So, just throwing this out there seeing as how the consensus (sp?) is the WP, is it hard (or even possible) to put an electric WP in place of the old one?  What's involved, any MAJOR changes outside of wiring and whatnot? 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

You'll need to come up with something to drive your alternator since the belt usually goes from the crank > wp >alternator...

You'll have to go electric fan(s) as well.

[RDF]

Ok, scrap that idea.....don't need to turn this into a $300 project if I can help it.

I got the rad out tonight and notice a couple of things:

Does the lower hose have a spring inside of it?

Yes, but just at the bend.

Also noticed all the fins looked fine and when I ran the hose through it (on both upper and lower neck) I got plenty of fluid shooting out the opposite end.  I even filled it 1/2 way up and shook it as best I could and emptied the contents into a big bucket....the water looked clean with the exception of some small dirt particles (prob. from the outside of the rad).

SO, I took my water pump off but there was nothing noticable (didn't know if there would be truthfully) but I've got one coming in tomorrow so I will put a new WP on, reconnect my rad, new fluid and a new thermo and let's see if that resolves the issue.  I may not be able to get this done until Saturday afternoon, but I'll post something once I get it running again.