Overheating Issue

[RDF]

I think I figured out my overheating issue.....some may remember a while back I was having trouble with my car overheating, just driving to the local store for parts.  I tried new thermostats, even ran it without one and still overheated.  My good neighbor suggested I run the car on high idle and check to see if there was any flow through the radiator.....sure enough, no flow....the antiifreeze is motionless.  So I let it sit on high idle (hasn't been started in close to 2 weeks) for about 5 minutes, then kicked it down to it's normal idle....still no flow....now the temp has risen from 100 (cold) to 195 and climbing fast.....so.....it sounds like a clogged radiator, not letting fluid move around.  Yeah? Neah?  What else could it be?     I know my gause is close to accurate b/c when it reaches 230's (if I'm stuck in traffic), the engine starts to chug and bog like it wants to quit.

[farmertan]

i guess id pull the bottom hose and see what comes out then flush with water from a hose and see how much crud comes out. all that would cost you is some anti freeze.

[Bullitt-]

Probably is a clogged radiator, local shop should be able to clean out, but just to let you know I have seen this once on a Ford, the pump blades actually wore out.

[RDF]

Probably is a clogged radiator, local shop should be able to clean out, but just to let you know I have seen this once on a Ford, the pump blades actually wore out.

on the water pump?

[Moparal]

on the water pump?

Yes, the water pump fins wore out. And sometimes on a mopar the pump spins but the fins wont when the brak loose

[Bullitt-]

on the water pump?

Yep flat as a flitter....high miles & poor maintenance

[GoodysGotaCuda]

I've seen where the pump turns but the impeller does not. Possible radiator clogged or water pump like mentioned.

[RDF]

arrgg....

I guess it could be worse....I'll try to "unclog" the radiator first and take it to a rad shop to see if they can determine if it's clogged or not.....then go from there.

[moparmaniac59]

I had poor flow through my factory 4-core big block radiator. I took it to a local radiator shop which is well respected and i've used for over 25 years. The guy looked at me and asked if I had a good heart?? He then told me it would be $800.00 bucks to re-core my radiator. This was due to the high cost of COPPER!!! That's why all these crackheads are stealing copper from A/C units from schools, churches and public buildings!! After hearing that I started looking for a replacement aluminum radiator. Cross flow radiators can be deceiving in the size of the cooling surface and often have no tranny cooler or drain plug or mounting brackets and you can loose up to 85 sq inches of cooling surface using one. I know BeCool are very good, but VERY expensive. I then found Smith Racing Radiators which made an all custom, direct fit aluminum radiator for $600.00 bucks! It has the mounting brackets, tranny cooler and drain plug. It almost looks factory aside from the fact that it is aluminum & fit perfect. They also use 1 1/4 inch tubing while most aftermarket use only 1" tubing. They bent over backwards to accomodate me  so I would have my radiator in time to drive to Carlisle. It is a small custom shop out of Cambridge City Indiana. Check out the web site at www.smithsradiator.com Good luck!! I hope you can get your cooling problems fixed. If you do replace the radiator. I would recommend replacing the water pump also!!


                                                                Matt B.
           

[Bullitt-]

Worse case they can remove the tanks & "rod" it...new core not necessary if otherwise solid.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

arrgg....

I guess it could be worse....I'll try to "unclog" the radiator first and take it to a rad shop to see if they can determine if it's clogged or not.....then go from there.

Remember, last time I checked big block and small block radiator inlet/outlets are different. so if you are planning the bb swap soon, don't spend too much on the small block rad..

[RDF]

Remember, last time I checked big block and small block radiator inlet/outlets are different. so if you are planning the bb swap soon, don't spend too much on the small block rad..

that's the reason for the arrgg...

now I'm debating what I should do....probably just better off buy a new BB alum. radiator.....but where do I start?  I have no clue what to look for.....

[bb71challenger]

If it is a good 3 or 4 core you can either swap the inlet and outlets to the opposite side or get a offhanded big block water pump. It would be easier just to have the radiator shop swap them around when they flush it out.

[RDF]

The rad I have now is a small, 22" for my 360.....I'm not too sure it will handle the BB once I get it (440).

[bb71challenger]

Nah, looks like you need to be on the lookout for a nice 3 or 4 core 26" radiator. Good luck with the quest!