70 cuda Steering wheels

[tommyg29]

I cant believe this. Tried to remove the can again with a new puller, and it just wont budge. Started to distort the can, and I'm afraid it might rip the whole column out. Putting at least 150lbs of torque on it with a 15" breaker bar...and nothing. Must be 38 years of rust in there holding it on. Also tried several squirts of WD-40 yesterday and now today. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

[72hemi]

Are you pulling from the 3 studs that hold the wheel on or the threaded holes inside the can at the base? If you are pulling from the studs, try and pull from the threaded holes, also with pressure on the can from the pull tap on the rim of the crush can with a hammer to try and shock the can off. I have used that trick at wrecking yards when i did not have a steering wheel puller and wanted to pull a steering wheel.

[422STROKER]

You did remove the big nut holding it on right?  It's way down inside.  Most standard pullers wont work due to the depth of the crush can, may need a mini or an extension to get all the way down with the stud portion.

Tom

[tommyg29]

I did not have the type puller to fit the two bolt holes at the bottom, but I finally got it, after rigging something up and finally wiggling it loose. Patience usually pays. Now to find a shorter can.

Oh, and while I was holding the can in my hand, I realized...this was the 1971 version of todays airbag! Its all that seperates you from impaling on the steering column in a head-on.
 
Thanks again.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I'm not sure if this is good news or not, but from here on out, you won't need a puller.   

After removing that big nut down inside, just mount your steering wheel back on the crush can and pull. Easy job... As I've done it a few times now.   

[hotrod98]

Are you pulling from the 3 studs that hold the wheel on or the threaded holes inside the can at the base? If you are pulling from the studs, try and pull from the threaded holes, also with pressure on the can from the pull tap on the rim of the crush can with a hammer to try and shock the can off. I have used that trick at wrecking yards when i did not have a steering wheel puller and wanted to pull a steering wheel.

These columns have plastic poured in the shaft to serve as another collapsible system. If you ever hit them they are basically screwed.
I took a standard steering wheel puller and cut the ends off of it so that it would go down inside the can. Been using it for over 35 years on my e-bodies. Works great.

Also, BE&A has a a leather tuff wheel for less than $200.

[tommyg29]

Ive got a rimblow that I love, and just need a shorter can to push the wheel a couple inches further away. Its just too close.
I took the can off to center the steering wheel cause I thought it would be easier than messing with the tie rod ends, and I put the nut back on because the wheel wouldnt push on very far. Kept pounding around the can with a rubber mallet to set it back in, and I put the nut on 5 or 6 turns, but it should be a lot easier in a week or two when I get the shorter can.
Note to self...the plastic cap is fragile. I'll have to glue it back on next time.

[tommyg29]

and speaking of rimblows... I have a couple 2 inch chunks of the black plastic, the part that sets over the circuit band, missing. I know there are several threads about this, plumbeeper? I think rebuilds them, but mine is otherwise very nice, so I think I'll try a plastic filler and do it myself. Dont wanna keep getting shocked! and just cant bring myself to spending hundreds of dollars for something like that.

[plumbeeper]

Ive got a rimblow that I love, and just need a shorter can to push the wheel a couple inches further away. Its just too close.
I took the can off to center the steering wheel cause I thought it would be easier than messing with the tie rod ends, and I put the nut back on because the wheel wouldnt push on very far. Kept pounding around the can with a rubber mallet to set it back in, and I put the nut on 5 or 6 turns, but it should be a lot easier in a week or two when I get the shorter can.
Note to self...the plastic cap is fragile. I'll have to glue it back on next time.

You may have messed up the splines on your shaft or crush can or both since they are designed to go one way only so you may be changing out your shaft as well as your crush can.

Your rimblow center cap may be savable. Contact me before you do any repairs to it or try to glue it onto the wheel.

Dave
812-593-4328
plumbeeper@yahoo.com

[plumbeeper]

and speaking of rimblows... I have a couple 2 inch chunks of the black plastic, the part that sets over the circuit band, missing. I know there are several threads about this, plumbeeper? I think rebuilds them, but mine is otherwise very nice, so I think I'll try a plastic filler and do it myself. Dont wanna keep getting shocked! and just cant bring myself to spending hundreds of dollars for something like that.

That would be the rimblow switch. Any attempts to repair it with any kind of filler may render it inoperable which means you will have no horn. I'm thinking it probably does not work anyways with it being in this condition. I can replace it for you with a new one so you'll have a working horn again. Contact me if you're interested.

Dave
plumbeeper@yahoo.com

[tommyg29]

The splines didnt appear like it went on only one way. It did go down on there...I tightened the nut down about 5 whole turns, but maybe I did mess it up. I'll see when I take it apart next time.
As for the cap, its a plastic ring with the 3 fake hex heads, and a black rubber type insert, but then Im sure you know that. I cant believe how expensive they are, so there has to be a way to repair it. I think it had what looked like 3 plastic tabs going through the rubber insert, and attaching it to the inner metal clip-on plate, and Im sure it had been glued or epoxied before. When I tried to pop it off I guess I pryed from the wrong spot!
I know you need to see the wheel for a price, and since I drive the car regularly I dont know if I want to send it out. I'll think about it. Thanks.

[plumbeeper]

I can put a new switch in your wheel, repair your center cap (or convert it to a fishcap) and send it back to you in just a few days. This is work that I usually can send out the next day after I receive it. Restoration of your wheel would be a lot longer, right now I'm about 5-6 weeks out on restorations. Another option if you have a lot of patience would be to send the items to you with instructions on how to properly prepare your wheel and install the switch as well as repairing your center cap. Your wheel appears to be in fairly good shape and although it won't look concourse perfect, it will still look very nice and perform correctly. You would need a couple hours and some basic hand tools to do this. I don't know where you are located, but if you have winter season when you're not driving it much, that would be a good time to send it out if you're wanting to get it restored.

Dave

[tommyg29]

Plumbeeper:
The wood face (is it fake wood?) looks good but certainly not concours, and the steel spokes are in very good condition. The rear black plastic has a couple small cracks, and the black "cover" over the switch has two 2" sections missing from it.
If this is something I can repair myself with materials supplied by you I would be very inetrested and will contact you during the week.
Thanks

[tommyg29]

Thanks plumbeeper. Did the wheel restoration last saturday...took me about 2 hours to dig out the old switch and clean it up. Had no idea it would take so long, mainly because you have to be so careful. It looks great.
My wood face still looks good, as do the spokes, but I noticed the wood has splices in it every 6 inches or so, Is it real wood?

[plumbeeper]

The woodgrain top is all plastic. The splices you see are fake just like the woodgrain pattern. They done a good job making them look like real wood, but the finish wears off of them fairly easy.

Did you get the cap done too? Post some  when you get a chance.

Dave