wiring in a power cutoff on my '72 Cuda

[burrpenick]

I have been disconnecting the positive battery terminal when I park my car since it sits for 2-3 weeks between runs. I never planned to keep this up since it requires removing the hood pins, raising the hood, loosening the battery cable.....but planned to wire up a cutoff switch inside the car. I want to keep it very simple and inexpensive and was thinking of a heavy duty cutoff switch that I could mount on the firewall but place it so that it was resonably easy to get to from inside. I looked at the positive battery cable today and see that it has the large cable going to the starter (and a smaller one to the junction/solenoid) and a medium gauge wire running back to the bulkhead. Keep in mind that I am not too familiar with the wiring, but please give me some tips on what wire would be the most convenient and functional to install a cutoff switch in. ALso, any suggestions on what type of switch would be welcomed as well.

George

[Bullitt-]

Are you wanting to disconnect all power or just disable the ignition?

Something like this on the inner fender would add security
http://www.pleasureboatmarine.com/blseamibasww.html

[burrpenick]

I'd like to disconnect the power, just in case there is something drawing it down, and that exta security as well. I was thinking of placing something on the firewall so that I could reach down and throw the switch from inside. I dont want to open the hood......it has hood pins.

what wire would do that?  I know the power would still be going to the starter if I spliced the medium one going back to the switch. Ideas??

thanks, George

[GoodysGotaCuda]

The thing with wiring a switch to the firewall is you will have to extend the factory wiring to and from the switch. Which not only is kind of a pain, but probably won't look to good under a clean engine bay like that. I would consider mounting a disconnect switch like that under the battery tray so that it could be switched through the wheel well. Probably off the battery ground circuit...

[burrpenick]

Can I get greedy and ask for a few more details/pointers? I was thinking the ground would be easier to hook into than the positive. What kind of switch would I need? THey sell some heavy duty things at the discount stores, but they are for positive wires I think,, was thinking of somethng like the drag race cutoff switches?

Any ideas/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


George

[Bullitt-]

Here's another that is for sure heavy enough
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Battery-Disconnect-Kill-Isolator-Switch-Snow-Plow_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1209Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a0Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem110314176139QQitemZ110314176139QQptZOtherQ5fVehicleQ5fParts

I saw this rigged once on a through the tail panel & should be workable through the firewall.
Mount the above or similar switch under the hood with the handle in a straight line of site to the firewall. Get a long heavy rod, maybe small all-thread, drill a hole through the firewall running the rod through the hole & connected to the switch handle, push or pull to turn switch handle. This could even work with a flexible choke cable & that would give you more mounting options.

[Chryco Psycho]

Painless has a 100 Amp relay that can be wired in anywhere & triggered with low voltage on a simple toggle switch or similar

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Personally, I'm not sure I would run the switch listed as a switch to power the entire ground system. I am running a Moroso brand switch in my car that is rated to 175 continuous amps, and I'd trust the Moroso over a no-name brand. Just I'd imagine the contacts and internals to hold up a bit better.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D74101&N=700+304155+115&autoview=sku

I looked into the painless solenoid, looks like it is a 250a solenoid. However I think it is designed more for an emergency kill switch, rather than to stop battery draw for a extended amount of time. Because the solenoid itself will draw power off the battery to keep switched. The solenoid will pretty much be like keeping your starter solenoid engaged (without the starter spinning)...those things pull pretty hard when triggered.


To wire the Moroso switch, you would be able to find a local parts store (as thick as possible) ground wire that went from the battery post, to a 7/16"? stud (don't recall off hand). Then another cable from the other stud to the engine for ground. From that same stud a 10ga body ground as well. That should handle all your parasitic draws.

[Chryco Psycho]

actually the painless relay / solinoid is designed for constant duty , I have wired 2 cars with these in them

[burrpenick]

I ended up with the cutoff switch from the HELP products section of my local Advanced Auto, about $7.50. Surprised me, it was made in ENGLAND and the switch looked and felt good. It was rated at 300 amps and seems to be working fine as a cutoff for my ground cable on the battery. It mounted perfectly right under the battery tray and I can operate it from under the fender well- no more messing with the hood pins!

George in Tallahassee

[quapman]

How about a picture of the new setup?

Thanks!

Sweet looking engine bay! Go Man Go!

Steve

[burrpenick]

Here is a pic of my battery ground interrupt on/off lever that is accessed under the fender well/over the tire. The next post will show the switch from the back UNDER the battery tray.

George in Tallahassee

[burrpenick]

Back of the battery cut off switch, under the battery tray.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Looks like it worked out! Should work fine for ya. Does that red part pop out? I've seen some where that is kind of a 'key'. Hate for it to fall out on the road or something..

[burrpenick]

Those english guys who designed that switch did it right! The key will only come out when its in the OFF position. It will not release when its on, same set up as an ignition key.......