Anybody got pics of installed MP Frame Connectors?

[matt63]

I'm finally thinking about installing the MP frame connectors I bought a year ago.  I got them from Mancini.  They are the bolt in or weld in style.  I was going to bolt them in and them get them welded in later.  I laid them up against the underside yesterday and don't see how the rear section can go over top of the rail without major metal removal on the connector.  They interfere with a couple of things.  Is this right? Has anybody here used these?  Got any pics? Thanks.

ps I couldn't find anything on a search

[73Chally]

I don't have any good pics, but yes, we did have to remove about a 2" x 2" piece of metal from each side at the top where they mounted at the rear.  I had access to a lift and had to use a hydraulic jack to get them snug up against the floorboards.  I know others have been able to get them on with the car on the ground, but it is definitely an exercise in patience.  The payoff is well worth it, though.  Here's what I have.

[matt63]

Thanks for the pics.  So you just cut out pieces so it would slide over top of the rail?

[500Stroker]

I had to cut a piece out of mine also.

[73Chally]

Thanks for the pics.  So you just cut out pieces so it would slide over top of the rail?

That is correct.  AFter we bolted them on, we went back and welded everything, too.

[Katfish]

Does anyone have a close-up of the rear section that needs modifying?  Can you tell the difference in ride?  What I've noticed when working on my car, if the front-end is jacked up, and I open the doors, you can tell there is some flex because they don't close as well.

Would the connectors cure this?

[rusty dodge]

not sure if these are the MP ones, but here is a pic. They fit tight up to the rear floor and actually make the floor bulge up a little.

[426HEMI]

That looks cool I might do that to mine as well.  Would help with the body pops and things as well.  Gordon

[Aracer]

They were hell to fit, because the rear frame rails are narrower in the front that at the rear. So you have to bend the rear of the connector's open channel, up, by using a jack with a wood block (2"x4") underneath  and use vise-grip C clamps to form the sides to the frame. Try to use any existing holes for bolting, and fit some 1/2" pipe stubs inside the hollow area at the front contact point, next to the torsion bar base. They do clear the back floor, and the ride is improved to that of a mini- pick up. The ground clearance is reduced by the extra channel at the back, that can also be removed later. Go for it!

[matt63]

They were hell to fit, because the rear frame rails are narrower in the front that at the rear. So you have to bend the rear of the connector's open channel, up, by using a jack with a wood block (2"x4") underneath  and use vise-grip C clamps to form the sides to the frame. Try to use any existing holes for bolting, and fit some 1/2" pipe stubs inside the hollow area at the front contact point, next to the torsion bar base. They do clear the back floor, and the ride is improved to that of a mini- pick up. The ground clearance is reduced by the extra channel at the back, that can also be removed later. Go for it!

Based on my trial fit a few days ago I would say that is about right. 

[500Stroker]

Does anyone have a close-up of the rear section that needs modifying?  Can you tell the difference in ride?  What I've noticed when working on my car, if the front-end is jacked up, and I open the doors, you can tell there is some flex because they don't close as well.

Would the connectors cure this?

Yes you will notice the difference on your first drive.  The car feels more solid.  My doors would not open when jacking the front or rear up before adding the connectors.  Afterwards they open fine.