TTi Header Install

[Aussie Challenger]

  Question, I will be fitting TTi's to my small block, I bought them last year. Can you bolt them to the motor and install them with the engine, that is dropping the motor in from up top?
  I was also thinking of removing the Xmember, bolting the engine to it and dropping the body onto the motor/x member. Might be a bit of work but if I replace a few bushes while it is out it might be woth it.   

[MEK-Dangerfield]

 
  I was also thinking of removing the Xmember, bolting the engine to it and dropping the body onto the motor/x member. Might be a bit of work but if I replace a few bushes while it is out it might be woth it.   

I know that way definitely works. I'm not sure about dropping the engine thru the top with the headers on.   


   Mike

[nivvy]

Couldnt you have already installed the starter and then put in the headers...... 

[quapman]

Headers that only work with ONE specific aftermarket starter? That is not good and it should be made clear by the manufacturer BEFORE the purchase!

Get rid of the Champion plugs altogether. I like Autolites or Bosch. I typically use 14's on the heat range (I don't recall the Autolite or Bosch eqivalent). I hear a lot of folks using NGK's too.

Headers cannot be installed with the starter pre-installed. Not enough wiggle room.

I don't think a small block can be installed from the top with headers bolted on, but it's a breeze if you "lay" the headers in the engine bay prior to dropping in the engine. Usually, a few pieces of wire or small diameter rope works well to keep them up and out of the way.

Most small block headers require splitting the drag link from the driver's side tie rod and pitman arm. The link goes between the header tubes and then is reconnected.

This is why folks say that Exhaust Manifolds are easier!

Steve

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Not to Hi-jack, but..

  You removed WAY more than I did with Hedman headers. The driver's side went in from the top, passenger's side from the bottom.


  Mike

[troutstreamnm]

Not sure you could come in from underneath without removing the steering colunm on an E-body.  In my case, the radiator needed repair so that was voluntary, but the fan shroud would have to be removed to allow the motor to tilt.  The console probably did not need to be removed.  I'm not happy about the starter issue for sure, but it is what it is at the moment.  The TTi's fit with all other combinations cleanly, it's just the large bell housing on the big block that is a problem.  I just hope the RobbMc works.  Should be here in a couple days.

[426HEMI]

Headers are always fun to install,  Seems everytime there is something different that happens.  No one set of rules really work.  Sorry been there and done this many times. 

[nivvy]

Not sure you could come in from underneath without removing the steering colunm on an E-body. 

I loaded mine from underneath........ 

[Aussie Challenger]

 

Get rid of the Champion plugs altogether. I like Autolites or Bosch. I typically use 14's on the heat range (I don't recall the Autolite or Bosch eqivalent). I hear a lot of folks using NGK's too.
Steve

  Champions have lost their quality here in Australia, not sure about USA, 14 in Champion is way too hot, I used that hot a plug for oil burners, cruising 11's and spirited street driving go down to a 9. I use NGK and have not had one problem with them in 20 + years.   

[nivvy]

You can see the header tube hitting the starter and the gap at the flange at the head (bottom pic).  What a bummer! 

That is an easy fix..... what I did with my headmans was put like a 3/4 deepwell socket or whatever where the interference is and hit it with a hammer a few times to make a nice smooth equal clearance dent. thats what I would do.... 

[troutstreamnm]

O.K. we are back on track.  Received the RobbMc starter today.  It's a fully adjustable starter with an aluminum billet mounting bracket.  The starter will rotate 360 degrees to give you a "best fit" for your engine/belhousing/flywheel combination.  Here are a couple pics.

[troutstreamnm]

The starter fits with no problems and there was about 3/4" of rotational adjustment that could be done with the solenoid before contacting the block or header.  Remember, this is for the 143 tooth flywheel and large bellhousing so things will be different with other combinations.  It was a pain, but you mount the starter, put the headers on with a couple nuts to snug it against the cylinder head, find the optium location for the solenoid, cinch down one of the longitudnal bolts and then remove the starter.  That was a trick getting that bolt snug with the starter and headers installed.    I marked the location with a sharpie just in case it moved during removal.  After removal, cinch down and locktite the two longitudnal bolts and then hook up the battery cable on the solenoid.  The small connector of factory positive battery cable had to be drilled out slightly to fit the post on the RobbMc starter.  The connector then had to be bent 90 degrees to clear a header tube that was directly in front of the starter posts  .  Fit was tight (1/8" air gap) between the cable and header tube at the solenoid.  Now, with the battery cable tightened down on the starter, install both from below.  Snake the battery cable between the header tubes and juggle the header and starter to get both in place.  Tighten down the starter bolts, header nuts, and install the engine mount bolts.  We're over the hill on this job now (I hope) 

[troutstreamnm]

Now it's just putting it back together.  Had to rebend the dipstick to match the TTi flange spacing, installed the Z-bar, spark plugs, wires, radiator/fan shroud, battery tray/battery and steering colunm.  Torqued the header nuts to 35 ft-lbs and cleaned the headers with a mild cleaner and warm water.  Fired it up with the open headers and man does that sound sweet    Now to the muffler shop to mate the headers to the exhaust.  Will retorque the header nuts after a few runs, but this job is done   

[4 speed fish]

I have a 70 cuda 440 4 speed I am restoring.The motor is out of the car on the K frame.I bought a set of headman headers.I have a mini starter.I had clearance issues.I cut the header pipes that had issues.I mocked up the relocation of the tubes took them to a muffler shop and for 100 bucks they rerouted and welded the tubes I needed to move for better clearance.Then I sent them out to be coated for 220.I have perfect fitting headers for about 500.00 dollars.The mini starter is wider than stock which caused my problems.I had one tube on other side moved for better sparkplug clearance.

[Chryco Psycho]

the Hedmans & mini starters have never been compatable , one of the rear tubes drops right into where the wider starter sits