TTi Header Install

[troutstreamnm]

This is an infothread focused towards someone who has not installed headers before, as well as general interest for people regarding the installation of TTi headers on an E-Body.  I am by no means a seasoned expert, but I have done a complete TTi exhaust system on a B-Body previously that was successful.  This is a garage install that would be a typical project for any of us.  No lifts, no helpers, no special tool, just a regular garage rat having some fun    Not sure this area is the right one for this thread, but the moderators can move it if they choose.  Hope you find it useful and entertaining and comments are welcome.   The install is on my 71 Challenger, 383 big block with a 4 speed, and power steering/brakes that currently has headers.  My old headers have a couple leaks at the head flange so I wanted to upgrade to the 1-3/4" ceramic coated TTi.

First, the TTi are a quality header known for solid construction and excellent fit.  They are expensive, but I think they are the best Mopar headers on the market.  The headers I got have the ceramic external coating and a thermal coating on the inside of the tubes.  The kit comes with the headers, reducers (2-1/2" or 3"), gaskets, and hardware.

[troutstreamnm]

First thing you need to know is that you need to make as much room as possible in the engine compartment.  The engine has to be lifted/tilted to do the removal/install so make room to work...believe me the more room you make the easier the install.  At a minimum you need to remove the fan shroud, battery, battery tray, plug wires and spark plugs.  I had to do some weld repair on my radiator so out that came.  I label the spark plug wire and individual plugs to make install easier.  The spark plugs have 850 miles on them an are already showing carbon buildup.  I'm running Champion RJ12YC plugs.  Are these plugs running to cold?

[vryfast]

mine were a tight fit

[troutstreamnm]

All headers are a tight fit...that's what makes the install so much fun    You also need to remove the steering column. Sorry, but the driver's side is a mess and space is extra tight.  Take it out right off and save the headache later.  I removed the console too just in case the room is needed for the pistol grip when the engine is tilted.  Not sure if it's necessary, but it came out.

[troutstreamnm]

Second important point.  You need as much height under the engine as possible to get the headers in from underneath the car.  My first lift put the middle of the bumper at 32" above the floor.  Well see if this is high enough.  Now turn the wheels full left and take off the tires, splash guards.

[troutstreamnm]

Next is the Z-bar removal and disconnect of the old header at the exhaust pipe.

[troutstreamnm]

There is not enough room on either the passenger or driver side to remove the old headers with the engine mounted to the K-member so the engine must be lifted and tilted to the side.  Your hydraulic jack with a block of wood and towel on one side of the oil pan will tilt the do the trick.  After you remove the engine mount bolts of course    The passenger side is show in the following pics.  Complications occur on the drivers side. 

[troutstreamnm]

On the drivers side I could not lift the engine enough for the headers to clear the steering gear box.  The starter had to come out to make room for the removal.  Are we having fun yet?    The only positive for me is I'm replacing the old log starter with a new mini-starter to help solve this problem    O.K. enough progress for today.  More details to follow.

[troutstreamnm]

O.K. Next is to remove the old gaskets and clean the surface of the head until it's smooth to the touch.  Get that nice surface for the fresh gasket.  The drivers side requires you to tilt the engine, loosen the headers, and drop the starter before the headers can be removed.  The drivers side is a PITA for sure 

[troutstreamnm]

Before attempting to install the new header, protect the ceramic coating with a wrap.  I used a low adhesive painters tape layered with a heavier tape to take the dings of the install.  First run the passenger side.  Tilt the engine over to the drivers side and run it in from the bottom.  The 32" bumper height was just enough.  I got it in without too much trouble and without damage.  The second manifold stud can sometimes be too long and it may need trimming of about 1/8".  This is the easy side!

[ShelbyDogg]

Did you find out that the starter and the header have to go in at the same time? You also might want to use a small starter from now on too.

Rob

[Chryco Psycho]

I usually do the drivers side first ,leaving off the pass side gives more room to install the drivers header

[nivvy]

cool..... glad to see more people do how to's .... 

On a side note I have an auto and didnt need to remove the steering column but I did have to remove the motor mount bolts on the drivers side to tilt the motor for the 2" tti's I installed..... 

[troutstreamnm]

shelbydog, The header and starter do go in together.  You position the header in the space next to the motor leaning against the car, install the starter, then mount the headers to the head. Back to the passenger side, here are a couple pic of the installed header.

[troutstreamnm]

Well, I've run into a snag on the drivers side.  Apparently the standard starter or most mini-starters including the Mopar mini-starters will not fit on the big blocks with 143 tooth flywheel/big bell housing with the TTi's   After talking to TTi technical support, they indicated that the only starter that will fit this combination is made by RobbMc Performance (PN 2005).  It has a fully adjustable solenoid that can be rotated away from the #1 cylinder header tube.  TTi was aware of this combo problem, but certainly DID NOT indicate this on their webpage!  I'm down on the install until I can get the starter replaced.    Here's some pics of the problem.  You can see the header tube hitting the starter and the gap at the flange at the head (bottom pic).  What a bummer!