727 to 5-spd Tremec conversion

[akersc]

I want to pull the 727 from my 360 crate motor powered '68 Barracuda and switch to a Tremec 5-speed. While it seems like a pretty straight forward switch I am sure there must be some pitfalls. Some of the things I am concerned or wondering about about are:

If I recall, 360 crate motors are externally balanced, will there be an issue with the flywheel/pressure plate choice?

Aluminum as opposed to a steel flywheel. I don't drag race and my '68 is setup more like a roadracer or autocross car.

Mechanical or hydraulic clutch linkage? As the car is an auto I have to install pedals anyway. I have driven some hydraulic clutch vehicles that have absolutely no "pedal feel". 

If there is anything else you can think of or have recommendations for a good setup please let me know.

Thanks a bunch.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would go with Classic over Keisler ,I am not sure Classic is better but Ihave had nothing but problems with Keisler stuff
Hyd Clutch is good But it takes a LONG time to bleed out the poor Keisler design , mechanical linkage works well too
You will need the balaced 360 flywheel , I do not recommend alum just use a steel one , clutch will make no difference ,I use only McLeod clutches  ,generally the Borg & Beck style or the B&B / Long

[dtedler]

You are correct about the 360 balance issue.  The engine is externally balanced and requires a special harmonic balancer and flywheel.  Not a big deal.  With that being said the clutch assembly that you choose will not be based upon the balance of the flywheel and the sky is the limit with choices these days.  An aluminum flywheel is a story that I need to share with you.  Jeff Dickey, a local HEMI engine builder here in Columbia, Missouri, schooled me on the importance of the flywheel and the performance of the engine.  Jeff built a radical HEMI for the HEMI Engine Shootout that Mopar Muscle had a few years back and did exceptionally well with it.  The motor had a 75lb. steel flywheel on it.  The reason....to keep the inertia of the engine moving / rotating.  This engine would idle at 900 RPM and try to rip the engine mounts off of it at full throttle.  The point here is the mass.  Idle characteristics with your 360 will be different and probably require you to idle higher, possibly as high as 1500 to 1800 rpm.  Have you ever heard a car set-up for road racing....Most always have a high idle.  The aluminum does allow the engine to spin up faster over the steel.  The steel provides the mass to keep the engine rotating.  My advice is contact your engine builder or consult a fellow racer for recommendations.

For your linkage.  Hydraulic's are easy, costs about $200.00 more in the long run over mechanical, however, you get room for your headers and the likes.  I am currently working on A-Body pedals for your application.  As far as the pedal feel, Air in the system is the culprit.  The Classic system uses two lines in it's applications which allow you to properly bleed the system the first time.

One of the things that I need to make you aware of is the fact that you have to cut the tunnel to install the A-Body kit from Classic.  I need to make statement upfront with you.  Please refer to the A-Body installation notes on the website which shows the work involved in the installation.  See the website at   www.classicmopar5speed.com

Please feel free to ask additional questions!

Tony Edler
Mopar Sales and Support
Classic Mopar 5 Speed