Upgrading the front end on my 1970 barracuda...

[elevenssc]

...Converting the manual front drums to power disks.  While I'm in there, I'm gonna replace all the 38 year old rubber suspension components and upgrade where my wallet will let me.

I'm looking at the Front end E-Body Suspension Kit from Just Suspensions (SKU 146).  While I'm that far, I'm thinking about upgrading the torsion bars too.  Here's my question...

1) I just came from the Just Suspension site.  I was looking at the 1.08" dia, zero off set bars, but I couldn't find them on the site anymore.  They do have H-D "Police Package" 1.00" dia bars with 30 deg offset.  What will the zero offset bars give me over the factory 30 deg offset?  Is it just the ability to adjust the front ride height lower than factory?   

2) Will I be able to tell the difference between the 1.08" dia bar and the 1.00" dia bar?  I'm guessing not, but wanted to ask the question...

3) Strut rods...Hadn't planned to replace the rod itself, but the Just Suspensions rods are 30% larger in diameter than factory.  Is it worth upgrading the strut rods?  (I'm definately replacing the bushings...)

[Chryco Psycho]

I would just buy the energy suspension poly bushings you need & any Moog steering parts you need such as ball joints or tie rod ends
 the 30* T bars will not adjust as low as the zero offset bar but on only a 1" bar I doubt you would need the zero offset bar
 you will feel a big differnce between a 1" & 1.08 " bar , it takes very little difference in diameter to to increase the stiffnes of the T bar
 I doubt you would feel any difference in the larger strut rod , the stiffer poly bushing will help though

[elevenssc]

Has anyone here used stuff from Just Suspensions?  If so, would you use their stuff again?

[HP2]

1) I just came from the Just Suspension site.  I was looking at the 1.08" dia, zero off set bars, but I couldn't find them on the site anymore.  They do have H-D "Police Package" 1.00" dia bars with 30 deg offset.  What will the zero offset bars give me over the factory 30 deg offset?  Is it just the ability to adjust the front ride height lower than factory? 

Zero offset allows you to set the ride height low while still running the adjuster bolt up into the pivot a decent amount. Non offset bars can still allow a low ride height, you just have to install them differently. Instead of letting the lower control arm droop, you need to rotate it up closer to ride height to install the bars.
   

2) Will I be able to tell the difference between the 1.08" dia bar and the 1.00" dia bar?  I'm guessing not, but wanted to ask the question...

You will be able to tell the difference as it is about a 100# of wheel rate difference, 191 vs 280.

3) Strut rods...Hadn't planned to replace the rod itself, but the Just Suspensions rods are 30% larger in diameter than factory.  Is it worth upgrading the strut rods?  (I'm definately replacing the bushings...)

Strut rods don't make a huge difference in the feel of things unless you get adjustables that allow you to dial in more caster. Thicker doesn't make thing better, but poly strut bushings are a big deal to have to reduce movement under braking.

[nivvy]

PST makes nice suspension kits also...... 

I also put a SSBC front disc brake conversion on my car also... 

[mojavered]

...Converting the manual front drums to power disks.  While I'm in there, I'm gonna replace all the 38 year old rubber suspension components and upgrade where my wallet will let me.

I'm looking at the Front end E-Body Suspension Kit from Just Suspensions (SKU 146).  While I'm that far, I'm thinking about upgrading the torsion bars too.  Here's my question...

1) I just came from the Just Suspension site.  I was looking at the 1.08" dia, zero off set bars, but I couldn't find them on the site anymore.  They do have H-D "Police Package" 1.00" dia bars with 30 deg offset.  What will the zero offset bars give me over the factory 30 deg offset?  Is it just the ability to adjust the front ride height lower than factory?   

2) Will I be able to tell the difference between the 1.08" dia bar and the 1.00" dia bar?  I'm guessing not, but wanted to ask the question...

3) Strut rods...Hadn't planned to replace the rod itself, but the Just Suspensions rods are 30% larger in diameter than factory.  Is it worth upgrading the strut rods?  (I'm definately replacing the bushings...)

Just wondering what you ended up doing?  I just ordered the corner fast kit for my 71 Challenger.  Have not had any time to start install, but should in the next couple of months.  Since I have not installed yet, no answer on how the parts work but the company is a real pleasure to do business with.  They are very helpful and extremely fast on shipping.

[elevenssc]

I"m all done taking things off the car.  From here on it is a little more frame repair, painting stuff and putting things back together.  I did get the Just Suspensions stuff, and the Moog ball joints and steering stuff.  I'm replacing everything in the steering accept the pitman arm.  It still feels OK.  Got the 1.00 " t-bars today. 

Question...How can you distinguish between the drivers side and the pass side t-bar?  Are there markings on the t-bar?  Does one end have to be in the LCA and the other in the cross member, or doesn't that matter?  I still have the factory ones in the car, so I can match them that way too, but wanted to ask incase I couldnt find marks.

Another question...T-bar adjustment.  What is the correct installation adjustment?  (I did get new t-bar adjustment screws and perches)  When I took things apart, the adjustment screws were pretty much "in" all the way.  Was gonna do the same at install, but since I have larger t-bars, they may not have to be adjusted the same as the stock ones.  How do I set the initial adjustment?

So far everything is going as planned, accept for the LCA bushing.  Why I got rubber LCA bushings I dont know...but I did get the Moog rubber ones.  I figured I could press the rubber out of the shell and press it into the LCA...WRONG!     I hosed things up so much I needed to order some polyurethane ones.  (Note to self...dont mess arround with rubber bushings on an upgrade... )

I'll let you lnow how things go together...and most imporntantly, how the car rides in the spring! (got into the 40's today in the Twin Cities area today...very unusual for January 31st.  I've got spring fever something fierce!!!)

[elevenssc]

correction...I got the 1.00 t-bars, adjustment screws, and shocks from Just Suspensions.  Got the polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspensions, and Moog suspension/steering stuff...

[Chryco Psycho]

there is a part # on the end of the T bar on mopars left is Always the odd # , even on the right
 thay can go in either way to the front , when installing you want the LCA hanging low as possible & the bar should slide into place , I always pack some grease into the sockets to keep rust down too
 initial setting is at best a guess I generally start with the bolt head on the adjuster below the lower edge of the LCA , with 1" bars this may be too high

[elevenssc]

Left is pass side???or Driver side???

[Chryco Psycho]

left is Always drivers side as if you were sitting in the car

[mojavered]

I"m all done taking things off the car.  From here on it is a little more frame repair, painting stuff and putting things back together.  I did get the Just Suspensions stuff, and the Moog ball joints and steering stuff.  I'm replacing everything in the steering accept the pitman arm.  It still feels OK.  Got the 1.00 " t-bars today. 

Question...How can you distinguish between the drivers side and the pass side t-bar?  Are there markings on the t-bar?  Does one end have to be in the LCA and the other in the cross member, or doesn't that matter?  I still have the factory ones in the car, so I can match them that way too, but wanted to ask incase I couldnt find marks.

Another question...T-bar adjustment.  What is the correct installation adjustment?  (I did get new t-bar adjustment screws and perches)  When I took things apart, the adjustment screws were pretty much "in" all the way.  Was gonna do the same at install, but since I have larger t-bars, they may not have to be adjusted the same as the stock ones.  How do I set the initial adjustment?

So far everything is going as planned, accept for the LCA bushing.  Why I got rubber LCA bushings I dont know...but I did get the Moog rubber ones.  I figured I could press the rubber out of the shell and press it into the LCA...WRONG!     I hosed things up so much I needed to order some polyurethane ones.  (Note to self...dont mess arround with rubber bushings on an upgrade... )

I'll let you lnow how things go together...and most imporntantly, how the car rides in the spring! (got into the 40's today in the Twin Cities area today...very unusual for January 31st.  I've got spring fever something fierce!!!)

How did you do on getting the new bars in?  With the new T-Bars from JS, there is no left and right and the JS logo goes to the back of the car.  Did you figure out the adjustment of the bars?  I have not even had my car aligned yet as I am just getting my tranny back tomorrow and my engine back in about 2 weeks.  Next, I need the headers, exhast, and a new carb and fuel tank.  Hopefully soon I will be able to drive it for the first time. (probably be another 6 months  )

[elevenssc]

I did call Just Suspensions about that same thing.  As long as the bars have not been installed and are still new, orientation does not matter and there is no right or left.  Once installed, and used, you need to keep track of right and left.

I did adjust the ride height per the service manual.  If you need help with this, let me know and I can post a pic of the page with the specs and procedure.

The stiffer 1" bars did not require the adjustment bolts to be as far "in" as the OE stuff.  Once adjusted, I took it to the allignment shop.

I did end up with an extra pair of polyurethane lower control arm bushings that are collecting dust on my shelf.  Did you need polyurethane LCA bushings?  Let me know if you do.

Good Luck with everything...

Tom

[mojavered]

I appreciate it, but I installed the LCA poly bushings already.  It sure made it simple.  I replaced everything and have not even torqued everything back down yet.  I was thinking that I would wait and have it all torqued down at the alignment shop since they have to adjust everything then anyway.

How do you like the ride with the new vs. old?   

[Bluemonster71RT]

So far everything is going as planned, accept for the LCA bushing.  Why I got rubber LCA bushings I dont know...but I did get the Moog rubber ones.  I figured I could press the rubber out of the shell and press it into the LCA...WRONG!     I hosed things up so much I needed to order some polyurethane ones.  (Note to self...dont mess arround with rubber bushings on an upgrade... )

The directions I got with my bushings said if using polly, to remove the rubber bushing from the can and insert the polly. Were they to big or something?