Author Topic: 383 intakes again  (Read 5124 times)

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #30 on: January 26, 2009 - 06:21:02 AM »
what is casting flash?




Offline bb71challenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #31 on: January 26, 2009 - 08:12:46 AM »
what is casting flash?

It is a parting line between sections that are cast together. It is caused by the sand not meeting correctly and leaving a void for whatever molten metal is being cast to fill. It will be excess metal and usually has a sharp edge to it. It you look close enough at some cast iron or aluminum parts you will see it.
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nivvy

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #32 on: January 26, 2009 - 05:46:26 PM »

I match a gasket to the heads and then use a little grease to hold it in place. Then you coat the Intake with silicone and bolt it down centered on the bolt holes. When it dries remove it and the gaskets will bond tight to the Intake and show you exactly where you need to grind. Intakes are always casted smaller than the head ports. 

I have been waiting for my heads to do this and finish my 440-3 indy intake.... should be here this week..... my TM7 setup to the right :ylsuper:

« Last Edit: January 26, 2009 - 05:53:35 PM by StRoKer »

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #33 on: January 26, 2009 - 10:33:13 PM »
nice. had to call my bro again and tell him thanks over and over again. He just said merry christmas and paid for the intake for me. hmmmm, maybe next year will be the heads  :smilielol:

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #34 on: January 31, 2009 - 09:26:58 PM »
intake came in today

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #35 on: January 31, 2009 - 09:28:01 PM »
Looking at yours Stroker, should i use a spacer?

nivvy

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #36 on: January 31, 2009 - 09:35:57 PM »
my spacer is the 4150-4500 adapter for a dominator...  ...

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #37 on: February 01, 2009 - 12:05:57 AM »
should i use one that will work with my eddy carb?

Offline bb71challenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #38 on: February 01, 2009 - 01:22:47 AM »
phenolic spacers are good to keep heat out of your carb. Are you sure you are going to need a spacer?
1971 Challenger (OO==== ====OO) getting close!
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #39 on: February 01, 2009 - 02:49:00 AM »
Open spaacers will add plenum volume & decrease response , this will not help a mild engine , a 4 hole spacer does the opposite I increases response at the carb & could help on a mild engine .the ral ? is how much height do you have to spare

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sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #40 on: February 01, 2009 - 08:56:05 AM »
Open spaacers will add plenum volume & decrease response , this will not help a mild engine , a 4 hole spacer does the opposite I increases response at the carb & could help on a mild engine .the ral ? is how much height do you have to spare
i have lots of room. i put on a fiberglass lift off 6 pak hood that is not the typical flat hood with a scoop on it, it has a raise then the scoop on top of that.

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #41 on: February 01, 2009 - 08:57:24 AM »
hood

Offline 71chally416

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #42 on: February 01, 2009 - 03:30:01 PM »
The only sure way to know is to try them at the track. Every motor and combo likes something different. Only takes a few minutes to put them on.
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Offline bigbrother

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need 1970 challenger 383HP intake and exhaust manifolds
« Reply #43 on: February 12, 2009 - 04:49:28 PM »
anyone, upgrading my l code 383 to 335hp version any ideas? need close dates or stock look

sleepychallenger

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Re: 383 intakes again
« Reply #44 on: March 13, 2009 - 11:50:37 PM »
Unlike the big block versions the old Ed single planes for the small blocks are junk.  Most used the LD340 dual plane before the RPM and modern Victor and M-1 came along because it was a very good intake. On the big block TM and Torkers you can remove most of that lump internally with an air file.

You should remove all the casting flash on ANY intake before you use it and make sure the runners align with the ports. I match a gasket to the heads and then use a little grease to hold it in place. Then you coat the Intake with silicone and bolt it down centered on the bolt holes. When it dries remove it and the gaskets will bond tight to the Intake and show you exactly where you need to grind. Intakes are always casted smaller than the head ports.
to match up the gaskets to the heads, do you just use the bolt holes?