Bellhousing was off 0.023 from crankshaft center, so installed 0.021 offset dowels from RobbMcperformance. They are aluminum with allen set screw to lock them in place. The dowel holes in my OEM aluminum bellhousing were not deep enough for the length of the dowels, so filed the "joggle" transition on each dowel to shorten the extended length. Worked real well. Final bellhousing center was within 0.0035 inch.
Mated the bellhousing, clutch release fork and bearing to the transmission, then attached that group to the engine. Easy to visually see misalignment or bell not parallel to block. Works much better than attaching the bellhousing to the engine first, and trany last. When I attach the clutch disc and pressure plate to the flywheel I never need a clutch disc alignment tool. Just loosely tighten a couple of the pressure plate bolts, enough to hold the disc, but still allow the disc to move, then reach in each of the 3 arced openings on the sides of the pressure plate, feel the "step" between the clutch disc and pressure plate mating surface that presses on the disc. Make this step the same at all 3 locations, then tighten the pressure plate bolts. The trany will slip right into place. This method has worked every time for 33 years and counting.
The hooker super comp headers went on with no issues, I added a little more clearance between one of the primary tubes and the mini starter, otherwise no problems at all. Used Felpro exhaust manifold gaskets with slight trimming at the top of the center two ports to match the cylinder head ports.
Used an engine hoist to set the engine/trany onto a trany jack, with small square of plywood between the trany jack and oil pan, then had a snowmobile dolly under the aft end of the trany. The dolly has a little square pad about 6-8 inches on a side, with 4 wheels, one at each corner. A floor creeper would work under the trany too, but I wanted it free to use.
Jacked up the body, it lifted by hand, but I used the floor jack and jack stands to raise the nose of the car enough then rolled the complete unit under the car. Lowered the car, then raised the trany jack until I could start the K-frame bolts, and attached the rear trany mount. Put in the new 0.92 diameter torsion bars, and started attaching the front suspension pieces. I had not removed the disc brake calipers, just wired them up out of the way, but they need to be sort of in location before reattaching the upper control arm/shock absorber lower bolt.
So in summary, when installing engine and trany as a unit, and front suspension is loosely installed or not there yet, putting everything in from below is an easy way to do it. Need to either make dedicated support tools on wheels like I see many forum folks using, or gently balance the whole thing on a trany jack or such like I did, just don't shove on it any old place or you might slide the whole thing off the jack. I had no problems, but only nudged it with my foot a little here a little there.
Clutch linkage torque shaft (zbar) that I have doesn't fit, it is for a big block, so ordered the correct one from Brewers Performance. Taillight assy are in, rear bumper and bumperettes in. Front turn lenses arrived, so they are in.
Rebuilt the thermoquad carb using a NAPA Echlin kit, everything went together well. Had new bronze bushings installed for the primary throttle shaft, used K-liner thinwall valve guides for 3/8 diameter shaft. Correct/minimal clearance of the throttle shafts will help with smoother idle. Cobbled parts from 3 different carbs including the brass floats from my original tquad carb off my old 340 duster.
Hurst shifter and linkage are in. Linkage is nice and snug, added washers where needed. Drilled a hole in the trany hump to allow a 1/4 diameter pin to be inserted thru the shifter so linkage can be set correctly. Used a rubber plug to fill the hole after I was done. The carpet will cover the plug. I'll be the only one that knows its there.
Stripped the argent color off the grille, painted it SEM trim black, will install it and front bumper next. Power steering pump can go in soon as pulley is painted.
Here are my calculations for the homemade engine torque strap:
Material is A36 hot rolled mild steel, with yield strength = 36,300 psi
Take off 10% of yield strength for production tolerance = 32,670 psi
For 2 times factor of safety (thats 2X) = 32,670/2 = 16,335 psi
Material cross section at bolt hole: 1/8 x 1/2 = 0.0625 sq. inches
Yield strength: 16,335 lb/sq inch x 0.0625 sq inch = 1020 lb.
So torque strap can lift 1020 pounds and still have a factor of safety of 2, meaning the strap should be able to lift 1020 x 2 = 2040 pounds before deforming.
The 1020 pounds is plenty for my use. Maybe if your pulling the front wheels off the ground you would want a thicker strap.
Its not letting me post pictures. Says uploader is full.
