Author Topic: Spring Relocation Kit - Anyone used one successfully?  (Read 2332 times)

Offline 360 'CUDA

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Re: Spring Relocation Kit - Anyone used one successfully?
« Reply #15 on: April 07, 2009 - 02:52:01 PM »
You want to use the Super Stock spring hangers for a couple of reasons.  First and most important, a shorter front segment like on A body springs is a good thing on our cars. It helps plant the rear end and prevents wheel hop. It also seems to make clamps more effective. Also the SS offset hangers let you use the whole wheel well by moving the spring out of the way. Even with an otherwise stock suspension the Mopar offset extended hangers are the way to go.

Obviously I'm not talking about 100 point restorations here, my suggestions are for people who need more traction and an extra inch in the rear wheel well with no cutting or welding at all with the advantage of putting it back to stock whenever you want.

Parts list
'65 to '70 B-body rear end housing.  A Dana 60 from a B-bod would work great here but any 8 3/4 will do
A-body springs.  Slant 6, HD, Super Stock or even Homemade. I like Super Launcher brand for racing.
10" wide wheels, 14s, 15s, 16s, 17s or 18s.    5" backspacing.      5 1/2" will usually work but tires with big fat sidewalls could get too close to the springs.  Like Slicks 
Offset Shackles
Offset front Spring hangers with the 2" extension
Here is a link to Mancini racing for parts

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/offset.html

A small 1/4" wheel spacer may be needed, usually on the passenger side only,  you should upgrade to 1/2 x 3" wheel studs for strength.   Spring clamps on the front section of the springs will help traction as of course a big old snubber on top, especially on manual cars.  Double check pinion angle and fix it if necessary.

Don't use....
Airshocks...  You will bend the crossmember and they kill traction
traction bars...  Sell them to a Chevy guy, you have a MOPAR
ladder bars or links.... Breakage breakage breakage
DO Not move the springs in more then a couple of inches without mods to the rear housing. Extra bracing is required because you will bend it.
Do Not move the springs inboard of the longitudinals. That means the unibody frame.  Evil handling at high speeds has been reported.  (It's fun though)
Do Not buy anything that makes you have to cut your valance, wheel wells, fender lips ect. Again, you don't own a Chevy or Ford.

The guys at direct--><--connection worked out all this stuff in 1970 and it still works great today.
Get a MOPAR Chassis book!!!  E-bay, used bookstore where ever.  Ya can't borrow mine  :grinno:
 




« Last Edit: April 07, 2009 - 03:04:14 PM by 360 »