Magnumforce drop spindle

[72bluNblu]

how much of a drop do they offer? Its a better alternative to adjusting torsion bars huh?

I suppose it depends on how much of a drop you want and what your set up is. With stock UCA's I know you can't adjust the torsion bars too much without exceeding the adjustability of the UCA's, which will mess with your alignment. For those of us with larger front T bars its probably the best way, I know I can't go lower without re-indexing my t bar mounts.

Now if you already had tubular UCA's (and t-bars 1" or less in diameter), you could get a 2" drop with the t-bars and just get an alignment...

[boydsdodge]

I think I'll be shelling out the bucks, I have 1.16 bars and I need to drop the car.

[sixpakchallenger]

Big bars are the plan

[72bluNblu]

Yeah even with the 1.12"s I have I can't get any lower than stock in the front. I'd like to lower it about an inch or so and put the rest back into my t-bar adjusters, they're maxed out at the moment.

[brads70]

Sure seems like "the ticket" or "must have item "for a big bar set-up!! I gotta say it's so nice buying a car you can just order parts for instead of having to Fab everything!!!

 I just finished a 455, 4 speed , 9" disc rear Buick regal  ( 1986) I used 76 impalla spindles to get big brakes, that required custom upper a arms, modified lowers. I must have has that engine out 15 times fitting the headers and custom oil pan. Not to mention making a 4 speed fit.

[autoxcuda]

I suppose it depends on how much of a drop you want and what your set up is. With stock UCA's I know you can't adjust the torsion bars too much without exceeding the adjustability of the UCA's, which will mess with your alignment. For those of us with larger front T bars its probably the best way, I know I can't go lower without re-indexing my t bar mounts.

Now if you already had tubular UCA's (and t-bars 1" or less in diameter), you could get a 2" drop with the t-bars and just get an alignment...

I think the Dropped lowers are really needed on the big T-bars 1.03 that you run out of threads on the adjuster bolts. At that point the adjuster arm just sits on the adjuster nut.

My car is really low and I have some room left on the adjuster bolts. It's got .99 T-bars in an small block A-body (more rate than .99 in an E-body). I don't even bother running lower control arm bumpers, it's that low. You are seeing the measurement to the LCA flange. Actually the bumpstop plate has a bent in it that sticks up about 3/16"

[72bluNblu]

Got my spindles on the way from Magnumforce! Hopefully this will solve my adjustability issues with the 1.12" bars, plus I'll get the 11.75 inch rotors on there while its all apart. 

[brads70]

Got my spindles on the way from Magnumforce! Hopefully this will solve my adjustability issues with the 1.12" bars, plus I'll get the 11.75 inch rotors on there while its all apart. 

How's the ride with that size of T bar?  Hows the handling?Just curious? I have to someday get new ones as I still have the 6 cyl bars in mine (440 transplant )

[wiging19]

Mine are on the way. I'm using 11.75 in Cordoba rotors and slider calipers adaptors. Regardless, your 72  2 piece rotors wont work, you will need to get the later style 1 piece rotors.

I did the same on my convertible.

[72bluNblu]

How's the ride with that size of T bar?  Hows the handling?Just curious? I have to someday get new ones as I still have the 6 cyl bars in mine (440 transplant )

The ride is fine, its definitely a lot stiffer than stock but not to the point of being bone jarring. Since this is my driver I think its balanced pretty well between being stiff enough to handle well and not so stiff that I can't drive it for hours without causing pain. I'm sure some folks would find it too stiff for everyday, and it definitely makes the rattles more obvious (got to rebuild my window mechs and ditch the console!). Handling is night and day compared to the stock 318 bars, body roll is significantly less and the car is much more responsive. I still don't have sway bars, frame connectors, or decent size tires (225/60/15 and 245/60/15) either,and I just have the KYB shocks on there too. I'm sure that a decent set of shocks will help quite a bit as well.

So I guess what I'm saying is that just the 1.12" bars and the XHD springs in the back made a huge difference. Don't get me wrong, it still understeers, but I think as I get the rest of the things on my list I can set it up so it doesn't.

[brads70]

Thanks or the reply! I was leaning towards 1" bars. Maybe I should go bigger?

[sixpakchallenger]

Here are the 11.75 rotors I got and slider calipers.

[72bluNblu]

Here are the 11.75 rotors I got and slider calipers.

Where'd you pick up those rotors if you don't mind me asking?

Thanks or the reply! I was leaning towards 1" bars. Maybe I should go bigger?

1" bars would probably let you get away with lowering the car without drop spindles. It depends on what you plan on doing with the car really, I know a lot of folks on here with the Mopar .96" bars that say their ride is plenty stiff. Personally I think the ride with the 1.12" bars is great, even then its still a softer ride than my SRT4 was with coilovers and 342 lb front/247 lb rear springs (although I would say the ride on the SRT4 was pretty harsh). If you're planning on racing or doing autocross, especially with a 440 up front I'd say go bigger than 1". If its just a street car then 1" would probably be fine. Keep in mind too that my car at the moment is a 318 car, and will stay with a smallblock when I upgrade to a 340, so it has quite a bit less weight up front as well.

[sixpakchallenger]

ocrotorpros on ebay. 135.00 free shipping they were on sale.

[72bluNblu]

ocrotorpros on ebay. 135.00 free shipping they were on sale.

Cool. I think I've seen those actually. They look pretty good, might have to get a set!