1970 Challenger

[dixiedog]

I am new here. I am working on a 1970 challenger. I paid quite alot for it.  The quarters have been replaced.  It is probably the best one I have seen body wise.  I am going to put some pics up soon.  I have most all of the parts for it.  I need a windsheild for it.  It is in epoxy primer right now.  The floors are as solid as the day it left the factory, same for the frame rails.  I will be looking for the right motor and tranny for it.  It will take me awhile to fix.  I will need all the advice and help from you gus I can get.  I've had several when I was younger but this is the one I really wanted (1970).  Thganks, Dixidog

['Cuda Hunter]

Glad to see your saving a chally.

Do you have any pictures of the car. 

How about a fender tag readout so we know what color and options. 

You might want to go over to the newbies section and post an introduction of yourself. 

[FY1443433]

Dixiedog,

Sometimes it is wise to wait for the right one to come along.  I understand that you aid a lot for it but think of all the work you saved yourself.  Welcome aboard, you've come to the right place for anwsers.

Fy1

Oh by the: 

[dixiedog]

This is getting into some $.  I am taking the rearend out and replacing it with stock rearend.  I may take the tubbs out and
put a new trunk pan and wheel wells.  Depending on the cost.  I would prefer that but not sure what my $ situation will be.  What rear ends will work (drum to drum) B ody etc.?  Thanks

[bb71challenger]

This is getting into some $.  I am taking the rearend out and replacing it with stock rearend.  I may take the tubbs out and
put a new trunk pan and wheel wells.  Depending on the cost.  I would prefer that but not sure what my $ situation will be.  What rear ends will work (drum to drum) B ody etc.?  Thanks

You can use a b-body 8 3/4 rear. There are tons of them around. They are also 1 inch narrower which gives just a tad bit more breathing room for your tires.

[dixiedog]

Thanks BB, very helpful.

[dixiedog]

Still working on the car.  Have had tons of advice and help from guys on this site.  I have the new rearend almost finished drum to drum.  I sent the bumpers to have them rechromed.  The engine is also almost ready, 440 from a motor home.  Bolt on stuff like headers, alum. intake, Holley carb, alum. water pump housing, chrome brackets, chrome oil pan, Mopar black and aluminum valve covers.  It is looking pretty sweet in peices.  Still have to figure my transmisssion situation.  My 727 came out of a motor home, it has the short shaft and a brake on it.  Some guys say it won't work, some say change the shaft.  Still trying to figure that one out.  On top of all this my job is in jeopardy and my wifes job may be going overseas.  If we ALL don't start buying American religously I am worried for this country and our children.  Thanks again guys   

[dixiedog]

http://s607.photobucket.com/albums/tt155/dano923/?action=view&current=IMG_0011.jpghttp://s607.photobucket.com/albums/tt155/dano923/?action=view&current=IMG_0009.jpghttp://s607.photobucket.com/albums/tt155/dano923/?action=view&current=IMG_0013.jpghttp://s607.photobucket.com/albums/tt155/dano923/?action=view&current=IMG_0014.jpg

['Cuda Hunter]

That is a sweet looking ride.  Couldn't find any rust.
Looks like the car was originally FK5.  Deep burnt orange metallic.  If the floor color is original.
Was all the rust just repaired or was it without rust before the restoration? 

[dixiedog]

Both quarters were replaced and it was mini tubbed.  I like the looks of the mini tubbs but that is it.  I would like to put it back original (I bought it this way, only one I could find that I could afford $7,000 for the car the way it sits).  I bought a 440 to put in it.  I will have to decide pretty soon about the tubbs, at least it wassn't fully tubbed.  I am planning on taking them out as of now depending on the cost.  The floors are the original color, it was a 318 car.  The only rust was in the quarters and trunk everything else was solid including the floors and frame rails.  I may have paid to much for it but who knows.  95% of the parts are there.  I do need a console door,a hood, and of course the dash pad.  I will probably do the R/T clone if I can find the gauges at an affordable price.  I am glad I found this site, I have already had tons of help/advice from people that know their stuff.  I have already bought another rearend to put it back stock, I have the positraction pig w/410 gears that has to be chabge back to 3.23 or simalar.  Alot of work to do yet.  Probably black paint as well.  Money is an issue due to my job  being up in the air.

[bb71challenger]

I would leave them if they are mini-tubs. You really cannot tell unless you get down and look. It also gives you lots of options on rear meats. If you wanted to you could always stick a stock rear in there and stock wheels but you also have the option of putting some serious rubber back there if you wanted to. Of course that is just my 

[dixiedog]

You have to love this site.  I have learned more in a few weeks from the guys on here than I ever could have imagined.  Thanks, again for all the advice, help, and opinions.  Dano

[dixiedog]

My car fender tag, What does this mean?  Thanks, Dano

E11
FK5  C16  C55  M21  R11  Y05
FK5  H6K4  000  G25  179202
E44  D31  JH23G0B  395993

[bb71challenger]

I have no idea about the E11, dont remember ever seeing that option before. R11 is AM radio, FK5 over FK5 is burnt orange hard top, C16 is center console, C55 is bucket seats, H6K4 is probably burnt orange interior, G25 has to do with mirrors or glass and M21 is drip edge moldings I think
E44 is 318 and D31 is 904 automatic trans. Dont have all the answers for you but the biggest part I do

['Cuda Hunter]

e11 has to be end of line , especially since it is last.
I do believe that G25 is a build date.
Otherwise, g25 is , add vent window.   I do not believe it was available on barracuda's.

h6k4 is   High grade, vinyl buckets, burnt orange

That is an absolutely awesome colored car.  Very low optioned also.   

Thanks for the run down.