Brad' second '70 Cuda and first (and last) restoration project

[usraptr]

Okay, per CP's recommendation and several very positive reviews on Summit, I ordered the Holley Street Dominator aluminum intake today.  Hope the Shaker Hood fits.  Will drop off the Edelbrock Performer at UPS when I go into town later today.

[usraptr]

Picked up my Front and rear bumpers, Hurst shifter and misc parts from Salt Lake Chrome on Friday.  What a beautiful job they did.  They look better than new.  I highly recommend them.    Had another productive day in the shop yesterday (despite the mid 90s temp!)  Unmasked the engine after Thursday's 's paint job and then installed the Pro-Maxx aluminum heads over Fel Pro performance head gaskets!  The engine looks very impressive.  Can't wait to get the rest of it assembled.  Then I installed the Hurst shift linkage and the shift rods on my O.E.M. Hemi 4-speed trans.  I had previously cleaned 45 years of dirt and grime off the shift rods and then coated them with Metal Mask.  (BTW, this stuff really works.  After I bought my '11 Chevy Silverado I cleaned and coated a small spot on my driveshaft.  After 4 years of Utah winters, snow and salt, that one spot is still rust free while the rest of the driveshaft looks like it's been on the bottom or the ocean for several years)  The shift rods were off the trans when I bought the car so I went by the Service Manual (very vague pictures and instructions) and pictures I could find on the Internet.  If you see anything that is incorrectly installed/positioned please let me know.  I then, media blasted, primed and painted the front bucket seat mounting rails.  I hope to install the steering column and front seats next week and the interior will then be essentially done.   

[usraptr]

Had another productive day in the shop working on the 'Cuda today although a lot of what I did isn't really visible/noticeable. After R&R'ing the left lower dash trim panel a dozen times, I finally got it installed so that it didn't have any gaps under the Heater Bezel trim panel. My wife helped me line up and install the steering column. I hooked up the door light switches and buttoned up some more wiring under the dash. After accidentally finding the speed nuts for the bulk head switch box, I installed that.  However,  I added rubber washers under the nuts so they didn't mar the firewall paint. Hooked up the final piece of rear brake line between the proportioning valve and metering block. And finally I installed the front seats into the car. So the interior is 95% done except for the door panels which I have to wait until the doors are painted to install. The inside actually looks like a real car now, except for the no door thing. :-) Interesting side note. I also dug out my retractable lap seat belts and while preparing to clean them in Wool-light, I found a quarter wound up in the retractor mechanism. I checked the date and it was a 1966. You have to wonder how long it had been there. Probably not rare or worth more than $.25 but interesting none the less.

[loco340cuda]

Great work, the car is coming along nicely! 

[usraptr]

Thanks Loco340cuda. We're hoping to get the engine/trans installed in the car by mid August if all goes as planned.

[usraptr]

When they say "nut and bolt" restoration, they're not kidding.  Been spending a lot of time on the wire wheel the past few days cleaning 45 years of rust, dirt and grim off various parts, nuts, bolts and washers.  Cleaned, re-primed and painted the rear bumper mounting brackets along with all the assorted bolts, washers and nuts.  Mounted my newly re-chromed rear bumpers today and they look really nice if I do say so myself.  Also, been wiping down my engine bay wire harnesses and electrical connectors with acetone to get the yellow paint off them from various repaints along with grease and road grime.  Noted a few curious bulges under some of the electrical tape so I removed the electrical tape to find some really horrendous/hack job wiring repairs.     The one on the positive battery cable was particular ugly.  Ingenious, but gross.  The others were just twisted together and then taped.  No solder, electrical connections or shrink wrap.  Glad I found them before I put power to them.     So, I've obviously got some electrical repair work to do. 

[Challenger in NC]

When they say "nut and bolt" restoration, they're not kidding.  Been spending a lot of time on the wire wheel the past few days cleaning 45 years of rust, dirt and grim off various parts, nuts, bolts and washers.  Cleaned, re-primed and painted the rear bumper mounting brackets along with all the assorted bolts, washers and nuts.  Mounted my newly re-chromed rear bumpers today and they look really nice if I do say so myself.  Also, been wiping down my engine bay wire harnesses and electrical connectors with acetone to get the yellow paint off them from various repaints along with grease and road grime.  Noted a few curious bulges under some of the electrical tape so I removed the electrical tape to find some really horrendous/hack job wiring repairs.     The one on the positive battery cable was particular ugly.  Ingenious, but gross.  The others were just twisted together and then taped.  No solder, electrical connections or shrink wrap.  Glad I found them before I put power to them.     So, I've obviously got some electrical repair work to do.

Someone before you took the "nut and bolt" restoration and applied the concept to the wiring, literally.

[js29no]

That is scary!!!

[Chryco Psycho]

I am glad & you will be also that you swapped out the intake for the Street Dom 

[usraptr]

Hopefully if all goes as planned we will install the engine and trans into the 'Cuda this coming weekend.   For those that have done this before  I have a question.  Is it easier to install, on the K-frame from below, with the headers already attached to the engine or should I install the headers after the engine is already installed.  I have an old set of unknown brand headers that came with the car that I'm going to use for cam/engine break in.   I will install a set of TTI headers and exhaust later.  I've heard others say that it is a pain to install the headers when the engine is already in the car but I'm not sure of clearances if I install the engine with the test headers already installed.  I realize that the TTI headers will have to be installed with the engine in place but don't want to have to go through this grief twice if avoidable.  I don't want to scratch up the paint in the engine compartment either way.  Advice welcome.  PS, in the attached photos, the headers are just mocked up, not installed and ready to run.

[HP_Cuda]

Heck Yes! Install everything on that block before installing from underneath. (Starter, headers, pullies, accessories, etc)

TTI as well as others have verbiage which states that they don't want you to use their products during break in. I never have had a problem but ymmv. The one thing I will tell you is that after break in if you want to stick the TTI's in there it might be a real pain because of the steering box, rod, and other fun areas.

If you have a lift - then it's a fairly easy chore to pull the 4 Kmember bolts, pull the torsion bars, remove the tranny mount and you can easily get to the motor to swap out the headers. 

[usraptr]

Thanks HP Cuda.  That sounds like a plan.

[cordodge]

Just a thought, it might be easier to just use manifolds and a couple short pieces of pipe to do the cam break in instead of trying to get the old headers out, less chance of scratching anything at least with the old headers

And yes totally agree its easier from the bottom

Bruce

[redo1973]

Excellent progress.  I'm taking notes since I'm a little behind you.  I've cleaned so many parts in my life.  I can't look at a project without first thinking about cleaning for paint.  It sure is tempting to buy newly coated hardware.

[usraptr]

Agree cordodge, but while I have the OEM manifolds I don't have any of the old exhaust system whatsoever so it would cost me to buy or have new pipes made, even if only a few feet long so that's why I decided to just use the old headers rather than buy pipes for a single 20 minute use.  I'll just drop the engine down again when I get the TTI headers since I have a lift in my shop.  redo1973 I fully agree.  When they say "nut and bolt" restoration I know exactly what they mean.  I already replaced half a dozen wire wheels that I've worn out cleaning parts.  Like you I've been tempted to just buy new hardware, but I'm trying to use original parts as much as possible, but I have had to break down and buy a few as the previous owner didn't do a real good job of labeling some and also when it comes to engine mounts and such I wanted new, none fatigued bolts for safety. 

Anyway, it's been a busy couple of days. After my supplier sent me the wrong clutch, I received the replacement on Thursday and installed it on Friday along with the bell housing, etc. With some much needed help from my wife I got the transmission installed also. Today I installed the transmission mount on the trans. and dropped the K frame out of the car. So tomorrow my three sons are coming over and we will install the engine on the K frame and then install the engine and transmission into the car. It's been a Looooong time coming. Can't wait to see the engine and trans. in the car!  FYI, I'm not going to run these original valve covers.  I just put them in place while we install the engine so I don't scratch up the new aluminum valve covers.