Brad' second '70 Cuda and first (and last) restoration project

[usraptr]

Thanks for all the comments.  Yesterday I didn't have a lot of time but managed to install and hook up the upper control arms and brake rotors.  Then I mounted the front tires.  It's actually starting to look like a car again, at least somewhat. 

[usraptr]

I need to get some opinions on this.  I bought some Eastwood "Detail Gray" to paint my rear suspension parts (leaf springs, shackles, torque boxes, etc) before installing them on the car.  The Paint can says "Restores Original Color of Machined Steel and Rough-Cast Aluminum."  I'm not happy with the color and need to know if I bought the wrong color paint or just have a incorrect concept of what bare metal is supposed to look like.  I know the paint can says Detail "Gray" but in my opinion the color is way too gray.  I would think that the original suspension parts were more silver in color than gray.  Am I wrong?  I've included some pics of the color.  However, the pics are a little light don't show how dark/gray the color is. Some opinions please and if the color is wrong, any suggestions on what brand/color to use.   

[Topcat]

You could try Metal Mask with a Preval sprayer. Reduce with Acetone.

http://www.por15.com/METAL-MASK/productinfo/MMH/

[usraptr]

Topcat, thanks, do you know how "Gray" it is? I'm trying to get away from gray and more to a machined silver look. 

Am I wrong in thinking that the original bare metal leaf springs, hangers, etc. had more of a silver look than gray look?  Page 45 and 52 of the Eastwood catalog list all their restoration paints and all except the Silver Cad and Blacks say Gray in their names.  The Detail Gray that I bought says its for "stamped or machined steel" which I assume leaf springs are.  I just don't remember the originals being this gray.  They seamed to have more of a silver look.  Any other ideas out there?

[Topcat]

The only way to get a perfect cast iron look is to flatten a clear coat. Metal mask is pretty good but nothing comes as close as the real steel color.

I haven't done that before. And I'm pretty confident it also might be noticable.

Something worth trying. I've pondered doing it to see how it ends up.

[Mentally Challenged]

Going to be a nice lookig Cuda when finished

[burdar]

Spraying it with a matte clear will help it some.  If you would have sprayed the springs black first, and then misted the Detail Gray overtop of the black, it would have looked more realistic I think.  I think the springs are heat treaded aren't they?  That would make them slightly darker then a normal stamped part.  Here are a few reference pics for you.  These are from Dave Waldens OE Gold Challenger.

The exhaust hanger is bare steel.
  http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/4501928-Dsc05276-1.jpg

So is this upper control arm...
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/4503621-Dsc05360-1.jpg

leaf springs
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/upload2/4502617-Dsc05279-1.jpg

When I refinished the shipping brackets that bolt to the frame on my car, I used four different color and then a matte clear.  I think it turned out OK.  Rarely are you going to get a good look with just one color IMO. 

   

[burdar]

Is this the look you want?  These are my upper control arms.  They were refinished with Detail Gray and then a matte clear.  They look more silver then the pictures you posted.  My UCA's were heavily pitted...I fixed the most visable areas but wasn't concerned with getting them perfect.  I think they look convinsing from a distance but up close you can tell it's paint.

[usraptr]

Thanks Burdar for the reference pics.  Waldens springs were definitely darker than I expected.  The matte clear is a good idea and I'm going to give that a try.  Your control arms are more the look I was going for.  Will let you know how they came out.

[usraptr]

Made some more progress.  Mounted the rear leaf springs and rear end.  However, still waiting for the new "U" bolts to attach the rear end to the leaf springs.  I removed the cover to my Dana 60 rear end to inspect the gears and was pleasantly surprised to discover that the gears are in perfect condition.     Ordered the fuel tank sending unit, SS gas tank straps and "J" bolts, and new gas and brake lines last week so I'll be busy as soon as they arrive.
BTW, I tried the suggestion about spraying the Detail gray on the leaf springs with a clear and I like the result, although I used the gloss finish instead of the matte.  I tried both but preferred the look of the gloss. 

[brads70]

Looking great!

[johns cuda shop]

Awesome workmanship. !! Keep the pictures coming!

[usraptr]

During the past week, I replaced the pumpkin cover and added new gear oil with fiction modify, installed  the new Axle U-bolts, shock mounting plates,  new gas tank with new sending unit and SS straps, ran the new gas lines, rear brake lines and and emergency brake cable.  Running the new e-brake lines and brake lines were not to much trouble, but the new gas lines were a PIA.  For supposedly being pre-bent, they required a awful lot of massaging to get in place and I'm still not real happy with the way they look compared to the OEM lines.  In fact I'm thinking of cleaning the old lines, inside and out, and re-using them.  In the meantime, I used cable ties to secure the two lines together.  Since it's probably at least 1-2 years before I actually get the motor installed and running, hopefully in that time they'll conform into the proper shapes.  We'll see.  Before I post the pictures let me say that none of the lines/clamps are permanently secured yet.  I also know that the top gas line at the sending unit has a nick in it and will need to be replaced.  Nothing forward of the firewall has been installed or hooked up yet as we still haven't sprayed the engine compartment with it's final coat of paint.  I have either purchased or ordered all new parts for the rear brake drums, and new pads and seals for the front calibers.  Just hoping I don't find that the front calibers are pitted when I remove the piston.  Soon as all the parts are here I'll tackle the brakes.  BTW, how much of the rear brake drum is supposed to be red?  Just the face where the wheel bolts up or the sides also?  Is the rest of the drum supposed to be black or bear metal?  Also, is there supposed to be a distinct line between the red and the rest of the drum or is red over-spray the norm?  Lastly, does it matter what color red I use on the brake drums?

[usraptr]

Before I post the additional pics I'd like to give a special thanks to Bullitt for his post in the "Reference Pictures" of the proper routing of the brake and gas lines.      Even though I took hundreds of reference pictures as I disassembled the car, I somehow neglected to take pics of the gas and brake line routing.  I probably thought it was so easy I wouldn't have any problem figuring it out.  Yeah, right.     After 2+ years I was having a hard time figuring out were they went, especially when they were bent in half for shipping.   
And surprisingly the Motor manual does not show how they are routed.  Anyway, Bullitt saved the day with his reference pics and I'm very much appreciative his effort to post the pics.  I'd like to give a plug this this Reference pics thread and encourage others to add to it as I will. 

[sadil340]

BTW, how much of the rear brake drum is supposed to be red?  Just the face where the wheel bolts up or the sides also?  Is the rest of the drum supposed to be black or bear metal?  Also, is there supposed to be a distinct line between the red and the rest of the drum or is red over-spray the norm?  Lastly, does it matter what color red I use on the brake drums?

I've known my car since the original owner (I got it when it was 4 years old) and I remember the red being oversprayed just on the face of the drum. Anyway that's how I shot the drums for the resto.