4 link rear

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    Author Topic: 4 link rear  (Read 1748 times)

    Offline IMNCARN82

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    • LeDZeP
    4 link rear
    « on: February 22, 2009 - 11:56:11 AM »
    Figured I'd post this here as well. Anybody use the RMS street lynx in an E body here? I have some questions...   First,The upper links (L) lay out right on either side of the axel breather. They are 24" C/C not 27" as in the directions.Also,The lower links don't shorten quite enough to get where the directions call for.I have it all mocked up with the shocks in.All I need to do is set a rough pinion angle,And weld on the upper link plates.   My idea is to just put the axel breather in.And weld a flanged nut to the axel to secure the rear hose.    Whatcha' think????    :dunno: :clueless: :1zhelp: ???

    Thanks,Rob   :icon16:
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    '73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
    '69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
    13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
    71' Demon
    75' Duster
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    56' Plaza
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    Robert    "cuda bob"


    Offline heminut

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #1 on: February 23, 2009 - 12:24:33 PM »
    I think I would take the shocks off and raise the housing up to normal ride height before setting the pinion angle and welding the plates in.
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    Offline IMNCARN82

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #2 on: February 23, 2009 - 04:32:56 PM »
    Ya, So...    it says to set the shock mounts at 12-13"   Then pinion. Then weld.     We'll... Then what? Lower the axel back down to fit the shocks on?  Hmmm.   The directions are a tad lacking.   THANKS!!!!Heminut!!!!   
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    '73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
    '69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
    13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
    71' Demon
    75' Duster
    87' Conquest TSI
    56' Plaza
    Boulder CO
    Robert    "cuda bob"

    Offline IMNCARN82

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    • LeDZeP
    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #3 on: February 24, 2009 - 01:03:05 PM »
    This is with no shocks.13" shock mount to shock mount,22" lower link measurement.(close to directions) Upper links are 24" c/c on the axel,Not 27" as per directions.   Does this look better?   Now check pinion,weld upper link tabs,install shocks?    No word from Bill yet. I'm sure he's a busy guy. I'll get it. :working:
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    '73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
    '69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
    13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
    71' Demon
    75' Duster
    87' Conquest TSI
    56' Plaza
    Boulder CO
    Robert    "cuda bob"

    Offline HP2

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #4 on: February 24, 2009 - 01:43:53 PM »
    This is only the second Street Lynx system I've seen installed, and it is the first E body unit. You might look for ABodyJoe over on moparts and ask him some questions about the install as he is the only other Street Lynx owner I've seen.
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    Offline hemiken

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #5 on: February 24, 2009 - 02:52:12 PM »
    Hey Rob,  Make sure you level the ends of the upper rod ends so they are parralel with the ground and run true with the third member or differential.  Also make sure you "V" the ends of the bracketry for the rod ends so you get the most penatration you can get, while the brackets are in place now, make sure you mark and clean the area where the meet the differential.   The arms are designed to travel in a parrelel motion and if they are not installed correctly they will bind and eventually break.  Also do not be alarmed if there is a slight gap under the brackts when you straighten the rod ends as this area can be filled when you weld the area.   Good luck.
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    1970 Challenger  (O O [======R/T=] O O)
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    I pay homage to the best Mopars ever built.

    Offline heminut

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #6 on: February 25, 2009 - 02:11:37 PM »
    13" from eye to eye with the shocks off sounds about right, and the diff looks to be at the correct ride height in your second set of pics. Ken is right on the money with his advice. Also, after setting the pinion angle make sure the housing is level from end to end with the body before welding.
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    Offline thedodgeboys

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #7 on: February 25, 2009 - 07:32:11 PM »
    Robert
    I would call BILL AND NOT WAIT FOR AN EMAIL FROM HIM.

    this is a link to the a body he started with it may have some info for you.

    http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,17352.0.html

    After you do yours you can come over and weld one in for me.  :bigsmile:
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    Offline 73EStroker

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #8 on: February 25, 2009 - 11:15:55 PM »
    Is this kit supposed to improve road cornering as well as better hook on the strip??? I originally wanted to add EFI to my engine as the first upgrade after getting the car on the road but I think, after seeing this, that the rear suspension is first. Then the front suspension, then the EFI.
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    Barry (Salmon Arm)

    Offline IMNCARN82

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #9 on: February 26, 2009 - 06:33:46 PM »
    I'm on my own. No call from Bill.   This is VERY close...   uppers are level,And "straight" I gunsighted down the upper links to set them. They fit good suprizingly. 13" between shock mounts. I extended the lower links 1/4" to allow some adjustment. Kept the uppers tight. The axel is perfectly level with the frames. I think I'm ready...    :1zhelp:  does mine look like Bills pic?
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    '73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
    '69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
    13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
    71' Demon
    75' Duster
    87' Conquest TSI
    56' Plaza
    Boulder CO
    Robert    "cuda bob"

    Offline thedodgeboys

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #10 on: February 26, 2009 - 06:44:45 PM »
    looks good from here  :smilielol:

    I think they are ok but I am no expert. :rofl:
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    Go Fast & Have Fun...
    70 6.1 HEMI 6-speed Drop Top...

    Offline IMNCARN82

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #11 on: February 26, 2009 - 08:13:12 PM »
    Nope... :pullinghair:      I just tightened the bolts. It does not move! ??? I thought it was supposed to move?  If I use these bushing links the suspension will not move at all...    :dunno:   I am now clueless. :1zhelp:  Can't find any pics of these type of links installed. So I'm going to get the rod end links. See if they move when tightened.  I just don't understand.WTF. :banghead:   
    Logged
    '73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
    '69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
    13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
    71' Demon
    75' Duster
    87' Conquest TSI
    56' Plaza
    Boulder CO
    Robert    "cuda bob"

    Offline heminut

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #12 on: February 26, 2009 - 08:16:50 PM »
    As long as the center tube (the one with the serated edges in the pic) are wider than the outer shell you should be okay. Those bushings are going to be tight, especially since they have absolutely no wear on them yet.
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    1970 5.7 Hemi Cuda

    Offline IMNCARN82

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    • LeDZeP
    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #13 on: February 26, 2009 - 08:29:30 PM »
    I don't know ???    When I tighten that bolt down I can only flex those plates like 1/8 of an inch. When it's all installed and that suspension goes up and down won't it just rip that stuff up?  Tear it off? I thought it was supposed to float up and down?   It doesn't seem right at all. The rod end links look like they would move upon tightening.
    Logged
    '73 340 5 speed,RMS,BAER,... "Supercuda" (O[   ]||||[   ]O)  
    '69 Dodge Charger 383,Auto                  (OiiiiiiiiiiIiiiiiiiiiiO)
    13' Challenger R/T BlacktoP  6spd. (OO________OO)
    71' Demon
    75' Duster
    87' Conquest TSI
    56' Plaza
    Boulder CO
    Robert    "cuda bob"

    Offline 72bluNblu

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    Re: 4 link rear
    « Reply #14 on: February 26, 2009 - 10:28:57 PM »
    Sounds like something is binding for sure, but it shouldn't be the bushings, they should just rotate on the bolt. You may be over-tightening the bolts and jamming the bushings, or your geometry is somehow setting up a bind in the arms. I assume this is without the springs installed right?
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